Gabrielem
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Hello again. When I checked the rear discs and pads (which still have the ATE ceramic pads), I noticed they were cracked, with perpendicular cracks. I also noticed that the vibration when braking comes from the pedal and the floor, so I think the rear pads have also eaten away the original discs. I've already ordered replacements with ATE discs and TRW pads. I don't know why I still trust ATE after such a mess. Maybe I should have used TRW discs and pads. @Carlston
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There shouldn't be any problems with the caliper pistons. The car only has 130,000 km, and where I live there aren't any humidity or salt problems. But I'll check it and grease it. Thank you very much.
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I didn't know that. Thanks a lot! I'm going to measure the discs and hubs with a dial indicator in case anything's bent. I installed the ATE ceramic discs in the hour.
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How do you see if the discs are directional?
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I understand that the problem could be that the caliper does not return correctly and overheats the disc?
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On a Skoda Superb mk3 4x4. I had the brilliant idea of installing Ate ceramic front pads. After a few thousand miles, it started vibrating. I thought it would go away with the mileage, but it didn't. In the meantime, I also installed Ate ceramic rear pads. Since the vibrations were really annoying, I changed the discs and pads, installing highly carbonized Ate discs and TRW pads, keeping the stock discs and Ate ceramic rear pads. Well, just like last time, after 2-3 thousand miles, the vibrations started again. I don't know what it could be or what to change. Thank you very much.
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I'm updating this thread because I just replaced the 4 Primacy 4 tires with 45,000 km for the new Primacy 5 tires and installed them at the specialist workshop where I installed the Koni SA tires. There are no vibrations whatsoever, and the car runs better than when I bought it.
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I'm refloating the hose because my little daughter kicked the grate and broke it just like what happened to you. I also need the piece you made but I don't have a 3D printer, how could I do it?? I'm waiting to get an extension for the vacuum cleaner, I hope the Karcher WD3 can rescue the piece from the bottom of the tube. Thanks!
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Hello everyone. Since I bought the car, when I make 90° turns on the street I have noticed that the rear wheels are pulling, as if they are getting stuck, it only happens in tight turns in 1st gear. It has 110k kms (68k mi) and oil changes every 35k kms (21k mi). At 70k kms (42k mi) I cleaned the pump and I have had the last change for 15k kms (9,300 mi). I don't know if it's because the asphalt is very dry and the wheels grip more (primacy 4 at 70%) or if it's a worse and more serious breakdown. I don't know if it would be advisable to reset the pump with OBD11 but I don't know how to do it or if I should do a new oil change with pump cleaning. Thank you very much in advance.
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Here everyone decides. And I repeat myself more than garlic, but the LED is far superior to the XENON. And that with the 45W stock ballasts, if you change ballasts and go up to 55W the gain is brutal. On Drive.ru there are several opinions that explain this.
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A couple of pages ago I commented, in March 2023, my installation of 3DS LEDs instead of xenon. But a year later and many kilometers traveled, with the heat and cold of Spain, I have had no problems and the lighting is far superior to xenon, even with new bulbs (I did the test).
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The problem is not the G13 or the silicate bag. The problem is in the "watercooler", it is a fault known by the brand and the repair is not cheap. I have filled 1.1 liter of coolant for 90k kms. TDI 2.0 190 HP 4x4.
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I have KONI SA and I do not recommend them under any circumstances. Very good advertising, very poor quality and fit.
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I don't know, but I can recommend that you use microfiber cloths and an interior cleaner like Carpro Inner QD.
