ScoutCJB

Ah ok, same as the Wifes MINI then .... i sort of wish it didnt do it

Im sorry this sounds a bit rude but i very much doubt theres no dazzle. Last year driving home on winter evenings on country roads as i do on my 80 mile daily commute, you could literally tell a mile off the cars that had non standard lights. Additionally in the rain its bloody horrendous, the glare off a wet road with the smooth black silent tarmac (as opposed to the roads where they shove a bit of glue on and then throw the chippings on) is catastrophic when driving towards them .... Im going to say some are worse then others. Agree - I read some bulb reviews and whilst they appear to be brighter some are actually dimmer. Even testers suggested a good quality halogen upgrade was better. Some of those bulbs have built in fans which just suggest they are running far too hot. If you look at an LED bulb from the ones i have seen you can tell straight off that its not a halogen bulb (unless hidden behind a parabolic lens). Cars with factory LED tend to have the LED concealed or behind a lens to distribute the light correctly. Factory Xenons on cars within Europe require washers and levellers. In an nutshell they need washers to remove any dirt on the lens as the light being produced gets easily distorted and can cause glare. Im surprised this isnt a requirement of LED lights as well - the X trail i had a few years ago had LEDS and i had to clean the lights daily over winter as the light output was significantly reduced when even slightly dirty. Levellers are required to keep the lights levelled when going up / down hill and carrying heavy loads etc to stop blinding other drivers. Heat shouldnt be an issue for the bulb itself as its running 35W HID as opposed to 55W halogen. I always found that in my old Scout that had factory Xenons that in the snow the snow built up quicker and stuck more to the lamps so i ended up washing the lights more to clear the snow.

What does VRS mode t do to the sound then?

I looked into this but never did it so good luck if you decide to proceed From someone on here who did do the conversion i was told that 'you need to have a bcm (or similar): PQ37BOSCH (5Q0-937-086-AK), a can gateway (or similar): 5Q0-907-530-F, and you will also need a headlight range module (or similar): 7P6-907-357-A'

Aaah ok, cheers for that - Mine all appears is English so dont have to translate it

Yes sorry the adaptions, there are a few options but ive found all the headlamp wash related ones as far a I am aware. Without googling im guessing Windshield wiper-Anzahl Betaetigungen Frontwaschanlage pro SRA Aktivierung - 10 (number of pulls between each wash, ie it washes lights then has to be pulled 10 more times before washing again. Windshield wiper-SRA Waschzeit - 600 ms (how long it washes the light for) Unsure of the others but are all time related.

This is from factory unless previous owner fiddled with it. In the basic coding there is only one value to change - it was 8 and i changed to 2 - no difference, only washes them once. Maybe there is something in long coding As for time stalk needs to be pulled to activate them, was 8000MS and i tested and it was 8 seconds. Changed to 2000MS and tested and they operate after 2 secs so that fine, again only one value you can change.

Yes lights deffo on 🙂 .. It washes them once but then wont wash again (from what i can gather until the engine is turned off then back on) - i tried pulling stalk 15 times after but nothing after 1st wash and even 20 mins later, nothing. I know on the wifes old Zafira VXR that it wouldnt wash lights again until approx 15 minutes had past. VCDS had number 8 in settings which i took to be the number of cycles that would have to pass (ie times you pull stalk after initial wash) before they worked agin but it deffo isnt 8. Wondering if there is something in long coding maybe that needs to be changed.

Good call, I haven't but other changes I made worked without having to do this. Thanks very much for checking, im guessing that the Security Access codes differ then - It is latest version. This is on an Audi btw but the principles should be the same. Other coding such as beep on lock etc have worked fine. What i wanted to know is whether i needed to enter 31347 as opposed to the code it prompted me with. So looks like the code im being prompted with is correct, maybe just Audi specific. I did see on a Seat forum the coding was 31347 as well. On my old Scout I went in and from this menu it was set at 10 and it was every 10th pull. Changed it to 3 and it was then every 3rd pull - worked perfectly. I did make this change as it was set to 8000MS so this meant pulling stalk for 8 seconds to prompt a headlight wash ... i tested and it was 8 seconds. I've changed it to 2000MS and now it only requires a 2 second pull to activate the headlamp washers so from this point of view i change this coding and it applies.

Fellow Briskodians im after a favour, anyone with VCDS? Im fiddling with headlamp wash in VCDS and when I go to 09 Central Electronics i then go to 16 Security Access and I put a security code in - you have to do this otherwise i get an error when i go to Central electronics. Security Access says that you only get 1 option on some controllers and then it locks you out for 10 mins. When i hover over the code box VCDS pops a code up to use 22341 or similar, however on a guide ive seen here it says use 31347. In a nutshell the changes I make to headlight wash delay (how many cycles of washing front window before it washes the lights) dont make a difference. Is anyone able to go to Security Access for me and tell me whether the code they get is 31347 or different please

Scroll down a bit to a hatch with pan roof and bars I did have a Megane with pan roof as a company car years ago and had Thule bars and footpack. Thule site again said normal roof but it was also fin with pan roof

I assumed all Octavia 3 had them. Look at top of A pillar and look for an airbab badge

Ive always gone with M-Tec drilled disc and Brembo pads, got combo, not a bank breaker either. Ive run that on 4 cars now and will do so on this now as its due discs and pads all round

Scouts do seem to hold their money a bit. Ive had two MK2 and one MK3 and all were manuals. I only towed a little trailer so probably not much help, the 4wd is different and you get the off road button on the MK3 Scout which may be beneficial for you.

One of my old Scouts started using coolant one day, no sign of loss anywhere other than header tank level dropping. As time went on the ammount of loss just increased. If it gets worse book it in and get a proper diagnosis. Additionally i'd go specialist route as opposed to main dealer personally.

Im at the other end of the scale .... ive got a 5l clear container and marked out in perm marker on the sides the different ammounts of concentrate required for the diffrent temps. Sad I know, lol

Me too - have for years and years. Its even cheaper on Trade Card

I dont know if the genuine stuff is still nearly £8 a litre as ive just seen on line, but 5L Halfords Concentrate that goes to -20 is £7.50 (i.e.£1.50 a litre).

Is that Allen Key slot for height adjustment possibly?

Wow that seems a lot. You can get a Westfalia detachable swanneck fitted at PF Jones for £700 (that's the towbar, dedicated 13 pin electrics, coding and fitting). If your happy to fit and code yourself (as I did on a previous Oct Scout including the dedicated loom) then your looking at £400 Unsure if Skoda quoted for a genuine bar or not but having had a car with the Westfalia and an Oct 3 with a genuine bar, I much prefer the removable operation of the Westfalia over the genuine one.

If it's an estate then certainly the Thule ones do as my bars and foot pack from my Oct Scout 2 fitted fine on my Oct 3 Scout.

In my old Scout I only really used Sport (and occasionally off Road mode). I found the other modes poor especially on roundabouts / junctions where I found I kept stalling it. I don't see the point of the Eco mode - My A6 can return pretty much the same MPG in Eco and Dynamic mode

It does need doing .... Although my first Oct never had it done as I wasnt aware it needed doing ... i wont say what mileage I got rid of that at but never had an y issues.. My second Oct had it done at 75k when I got it. It was full history but not convinced the Haldex was ever done as could find no proof although the digital service is a bit of a nightmare to sort out. They remove the oil and then top back up until it spills out (i think). But yes, there is a mesh that needs cleaning out as well.

I had a bit of glare when driving at night with the heated screen -- I got used to them after a while

Mine did the exact same on my 15 plate Scout when I had it ---- I replaced both front ones in the end as the other looked iffy. It is a disc off job