ScoutCJB

Dont think they are the same as the detachable factory one (its a pig to use) on my Oct 3 looked nothing like the detachable Westfalia on my Oct 2 that I fitted or A6 I would deffo go for the Westfalia having had 2 of them and additionally I'd got for the dedicated electrics as opposed to generic.

The hill decent (activated by 'off road button' on my manual 2015 Scout on 17"s, on a tarmac'd route with an average 14% gradient (maximum 22%) works fine and isnt jerky. The same route with hill decent activated by 'allroad' setting in my Auto A6 on 20"s work fine and isnt jerky either. I used it to maintain speed on a single track route with many switchbacks and numerous steep drops (the sort you'd have time to ring the insurance company before you got to the bottom).

Assume the windscreen is clean in and out and also camera lens is clean. I had the lane assist on my 2015 Scout with halogens and the beam assist worked brilliantly, absolutely faultless and thats taking into account its housed into holder that is directly onto the windscreen and I was aware the area in front of the camera was dirty but couldn't get to it to clean it. My A6 camera is built in on the rear view mirror and I would say it doesn't turn off quite as quickly as I think it should, but its still good. Also I'd like to get it to kick in at a lower speed as 30 ish mph is too low - ill tweak that with VCDS when I get a chance.

Did you have dedicated electrics (back to fusebox) or standard electrics (connect to cables in boot).

Id used mine on my summer tyres (Uniroyal Rainsport 2's) and Winter tyres (Continental Wintercontact 860's) and not aware of any difference. Additionaly I've used it in my current auto, whilst not a 2.0DSG its fine as well.

It was a 2.0D manual (Euro 6)

Another option is to download the user sales brochure and work out the specs of your car / options based on that - Thats how I have done it in the past

The few times i had it go off seemed to be roughly the same distance from home, roughly a mile - I assumed it must need to travel a certain distance or monitor for a certain amount of time before alerting. Only exception was having 4 new tyres and garage didn't reset TPMS and I got almost 50 miles before it alerted - no issues so put it down to wheel speed values not matching stored values. I did check all tyres, pressures were correct so reset and job done.

I made the mistake of washing the wife's MINI convertible a few years back and it then froze overnight. Windows wouldn't drop when opening the doors the following morning so ended up stood on drive with hair dryer and extension for 5 mins to get in!

Mine was smooth and I used it a number of times on the switchback sections of Hard Knott Pass in dry weather and on more local roads in snow.

+1 on that, i've also known some of those pin pricks to be actual paint issues / defects. Moss and algae can be tree fallout if its been parked under trees regularly and the pillars can get scratched very easily and as long as there not ridges you can get your nails in would buff out with a machine polisher. Mine had a pump instead of spare so i transferred the spare and insert from my old car to it.

What are the colours of both. For me rusty brakes i wouldnt be fussed about as I generally replace them after buying anyway. Stone chips on the bonnet are to be expected, rust less so - how bad is it, any pics - is it much. Is it indicative of a potential front end and then a poor repair. Did you look for overspray, under bonnet, round doors etc, were all relevant labels in correct place under bonnet (google if unsure or I'll see if i have one of mine), did it have a bonnet carpet/liner and did panels line up. Were both headlights the same, front and rear plates match( if they hadnt been replaced by retailing dealer etc) ... There are sometimes some easy giveaways that are worth looking out for. Not suggested its been damaged, just double check. My Scout had a tiny spot of rust on roof by window where I suspect someone had caught it when replacing the windscreen at a guess - It didnt go under the window line so I flatted it and treated it, job done. Offroad button isn't be all and end all although I found it very handy in the snow a few years back going up and down untreated hills. Colour/Spec ..... Thats a different story. I decided it had to be Denim Blue with Grey a 2nd choice and didnt look at anything else. I went to see a few blue ones but werent happy with them - holding out I got virtually everything I wanted with bigger Nav screen, winter pack, Kessy (but not Xenons - we cant have everything!), in great condition with full history. Not many people buy this time of year in run up to Christmas, along with Covid you probably have them in your hands - work it to your advantage So whats mileage / colour / spec of both

Hi Rangor-R Your much in the same predicament I was a few years ago. I was looking at an ex-lease car belonging to a national company, full history but all digital. The dealer did print it out but it was just dates and some part numbers, essentially full Skoda standard history. I googled it all there and then and came to conclusion it was all correct but no evidence of Haldex change and it was on 75K. The garage said it would have been done but i was sure it wasn't. I don't think you put mileage on either but I wouldn't have expected Cambelt/water pump unless it had done the appropriate mileage which I thought was 130k (been told by 2 separate independent specialists all though that doesn't mean its gospel!). Slightly corroded rear discs aren't a big issue as long as functional as mine were. My DMF was on its way at about 134k so that's a potential future issue crossed out on the first one. As for the used - Yes of course you want proof of missing history, trouble is with GDPR that if there were receipts with info on, the previous owner may have binned them. You'd like to think the garage would have provided them if they had them but cut previous owners details out. Based on this on paper between the 2 I would lean towards the first one. My ex - lease fortunately came with a stellar history including tyre invoices, wiper blade receipts etc and all to the same person/address. After buying I had the haldex done by an Audi specialist who ive used for years now and at 123k car was in for a new aircon compressor so I had cambelt/water pump done as well. Mine was manual and was always notchy between 1st/2nd when weather was around freezing from startup but as long as you changed gear slowly it wasn't an issue and after a few mins of running it always smoothed out. +1 Mine was a company lease as i saw the name in some of the documentation however all the Kwik-Fit invoices were in the same person name. It had been well looked after and was main dealer everything bar the tyres / wiper blades which were all Kwik-fit. I wasn't aware that you could. The Off Road button when pressed gives you hill decent control, adapts the ABS so it locks up for longer to create a wedge when breaking on loose surfaces and changes the throttle so that its less responsive allowing you to climb with more control.

My old Scout lasted a little over 3 years on the original battery before it gave up the ghost and i had to fit a new one - It was a fairy tale classic case of a cold spell that lasted a couple of days and that was it - battery shot. Same happened on my old A4

Whilst thats good news, thats nearly double what I paid for my Haldex oil change at my local Audi specialist on my Octavia Scout 3 - They perform that exact service as standard (whilst appreciating your on a 19 plate car so would probably use main dealer till warranty expires).

You forgot Instagram .....

Thats a huge amount of weights! I had a Vec with a buckled wheel and they could always balance out but it didnt require that much weight. I personally would look to replace the wheel and would check the wheel over in the meantime and make sure there are no hairline cracks.

The only thing to change the braking profile is the 'off road' mode - When on, up to speeds off about 25mph the system allows the wheels to lock up a little longer when hitting the brakes and is designed to form a wedge of snow/mud/leaves etc in front of the wheels to aid braking. Additionally you get the hill decent control and the hill climbing 'thing' that from memory makes the throttle less responsive / allows you to climb gradients less aggressivley.

5th Gear did a test on some of the fuels - screen dump from Youtube.

Either put in V power / Momentum every tank or don't bother at all. Many years ago I had a Vec GSI and it had a bit of a dead spot around 3k. After a few tanks of V power it noticeably improved but as soon as I filled with 95 Ron it came straight back. It always took 2-3 tanks to disappear. There was rolling road test done on the 'Super unleaded' fuels that you can find on line, from memory V Power won with Momentum 2nd - there wasnt much in it.

Can i ask why you want to change it? Surely you want the audio off once key removed or with KESSEY as I know it, when door is opened. Why leave on till its locked?

Fairly sure thats the battery I got - Out of curiosity ask them what they do when they 'sort the computer'.

Yes the small cap on drivers door handle comes off to reveal the lock, you can use the key blade. I suppose gain entry, check battery, charge (if dead) and see if it all works (and how long it lasts). Either something has drained the battery or like mine it literally gave up overnight. My battery on my 65 plate Octavia lasted 3 years so you've done well. I just got like for like AGM Halfords own brand and fitted myself, it came with 4 year guarantee and at time of selling a few years later it was fine. You are supposed to tell the car the battery has been changed (VCDS OBD etc), its less of an issue I believe if its like for like - i didn't do mine and i didn't have any problems.

Misting shocks is a funny one - As with you one car I had had misting shocks noted a few years in a row, but on another it was misting at MOT and 6 months (10K later the shock was knackered). Yes I'd do the top mounts

Like I said ... its only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I had an old Cat from a Vectra I had years ago and i thought it would sell easy but after months on ebay not a sniff. I ended up at a scrappy and got good money for it. Wait till after Christmas is your best bet.