ScoutCJB

Hi, Rob sent you a message, cheers. Forgot how much time I used to spend on here!

Surely unplug / remove everything you fitted and see what's causing the issue. Crackling speakers and light issues clearly isnt normal. Are the LEDS' the ones from your MK2 or did you buy them new? I've had varying success over the years with LED number plate / interior bulb swaps but realistically the ammount i've binned due to premature failure, flashing or crap quality etc is fairly substantial.

Additionally doesnt factory bar/prep come with different rear springs? A few years ago admittedley but I brought a towbar from PF Jones with dedicated electrics and fitted myself (& coded) on my MK2 Scout. Pretty simple job My MK3 came with a factory bar - I had no idea there were potential difference to my Mk3 over over a non towbar car. Personally if your towing a van i'd look at a 2.0

Very nice

My experience was it wasnt great at detecting a really slow puncture / loss of air over a prolonged period - I'd normally pick that up when I check the pressures every few weeks or may notice it when cleaning it which is generally weekly. Any decent air loss and I knew straight away though and the only false alarm was when I had new tyres and garage said they had reset values but clearly hadnt. It took about 20 miles before I got a dash alert.

Also look at specialists as well as they are normally cheaper than main dealer.

Re cutting them is a bigger process than powder coat / paint so that reflects in the cost. Interested to see how they turn out

That depends on what sort or refurb was done. There's taking tyres off & acid dipping refurbs and then there's breaking the bead and painting in back of a van refurb. I've even seen refurbs where outer faces only have been done, overspray has gone through the wheel spokes and as balances weren't removed during process your then left with patches when the balances are removed. A buckled wheel can be balanced out if only mild (so look for lots of wheel weights), if it cant be balanced out or hasn't you will soon know about it when driving at 50 ish. Makes sure they can provide the service history of the car - its digital but they can print it out. My Scout was full history (at 75k) when I purchased but had never had Haldex done as it wasnt on the 'plan' - it was the first thing I had done upon taking ownership. If they say they cant show it you for GDPR etc then they are talking nonsense. Any questions when you see the car post them here

I had a similair trailer to this and ditched all the rear lights in favour of much bigger/visible units as those rear lamps arent that visible at the best of times. Cheap easy and effective, if your interested I'll post some pics.

+1

Ive used Brembo pads on numerous cars without issue - more recently that included my Oct 2 Scout and Oct 3 Scout.

It was only last year I got rid of my Alpine headunit with flipout screen, 12 disc changer and DVD/Nav changer - I brought the HU and CD changer in 2002 and the Nav in 2006. I hadnt used it any of it since 2011. The remote was almost the size of a small phone I know what you mean about nostalgia .... very nearly kept it!

Your definitely right on sound source - I found SD card to be variable on quality, the CD/DVD sounded far better than SD overall. I do thing soundproofing (even just the front doors) would have made a difference, recollecting my younger days and fully dynamatting my old MK2 Golf taught me that but ultimately there's no getting away from the fact the Oct 3 setup just seems poor.

Yup - Thats standard protocol if you've had a flat battery or swapped it. I swapped my battery like for like (didnt re code anything) and in the year or so of ownership before selling I didnt have any issues.

I had a Oct 3 2016 with Columbus and thought the sound was poor and thats coming from an Oct 2 2010 with Amundsen which I thought was very good. I think the issue is sound proofing/deadening in the Oct 3. Fading the rears makes it worse.

There's a definitive audible click when its secured in place. As mentioned above it looks like someone has tried to lever it out previously.

Id like to say no as I had a pair of brand new Oct MK2 blades that I hadnt fitted and gave them to a mate at work when I got my Oct Mk3

I'd always advise locking the car - I used to have issues with battery going flat on my 2016 Scout (KESSY), it was parked in a locked garage and I didnt lock the car. Someone mentioned that when the cars unlocked its in a stand by mode and the vehicles is waiting for something to happen. True or not, I then started locking the car and the issue went away. Duracell should be fine, thats what I always use. Whilst appreciating your location wait till your next down the shops and buy some from a real shop as opposed to an online retailer.

From when I had mine, Engine: 2.0 TDi 150 Type: Scout Mileage: 127k Cambelt/waterpump changed 1 time 6 Speed Manual 2 x Haldex oil change, Brake fluid Any other major work done? New Aircon compressor, normal servicing regimes, new battery, KESSY remotes literally ate batteries!

Hmmmm. Just what I was thinking.

Ohh yes - I do like that.

You should have a brake pad wear indicator ..... alternatively listen for the giveaway grinding sound Seriously though as mentioned above, driving style will effect longevity - how many miles has it done so far?

Its funny you say that about the EZ brushes as I have one of them and that's the exact reason I swapped to Wheel Woolies - also got a £3 Valet Pro brush for attacking the backs of the spokes head on. I've traditionally used wheel wax but then 2-3 years ago tried a sealant - The first sealant turned up and the product had been damaged in transit and the applicator / cloth were covered in glass. I was told this was due to poor packaging from manufacturer and was a common issue (at the time). I was offered an exchange but went for a refund out of principal - hopefully those issues have been rectified. The next sealant I tried (i can remember the brand) was a bit of a bitch to use - I followed the instructions to the dot but it was difficult to remove (there are similar stories online). I also found that when washing the wheels the crap didn't come off as easily. 6 months later I gave them a thorough going over (Imperial Wheel Cleaner / Dragons Breath / Citrus Tar & Glue) and went back to Chemical Guys Rim Wax. I'd say stick with your current process.

One of the miniature wheel woolies (8" x 1") would be ideal for getting between those small spokes if you dont already have one.

Ive got an Aux heater on my A6, its brilliant, gets the cabin warm very quickly.