ScoutCJB

So it sounds like its in time with the brake lights coming on then. I mentioned the pad wear sensor as thats the only thing in that area electrical that they would have touched - I think the pad wear sensor is built in from memory so when they fit the new pads they just connect the new sensor plug on to your existing loom. Cant think how that would be related to a relay in the rear though but keep it on the radar. When fitting towbars people either use dedicated electrics (more expensive) that need to be run to the front of the car (as i did with my Oct 2 Scout) or a generic kit that tap into the wires in the boot. Have you got any pics of the relay and associated wiring - does it look factory? You could try a multimeter and tap onto the wire and see if its live or goes live when pressing brake, that may give some clues.

Something in the spare tyre well? Unless you looked in the actual door itself you wouldnt necessarily know if there was glass there or not. Open the door and pull back and forth and see if you can replicate. Additionally check the windows match, you may find one had been put through previously so wont match (ie logos, brand)

So deffo a relay, is it one click or constant clicking. Does it look factory or aftermarket relay for a towbar etc. Have you found its motion related - if you press brake pedal when stationary do you hear the click. Only thing i can think of thats electrical to that area is the pad wear sensor & wheel speed sensor. What Pads did you have fitted in the end?

For what they cost I would just replace it after doing it - Euro have a sale on for a few more day (online)

PM'd you

Do you have factory Xenons or an after market kit?

Ive got a pic of the Discs and pads in box but cant see the part number & the receipt went with the car when I sold it. Ive just been on Euro using the original number plate and it comes back with 2 options Brembo Brake Pad Front - 10144419A £82.99 (Teves brakes, 1ZF, Disc 276) Brembo Brake Pad Front - 10144210A £78.99 (TRW brakes, 1ZA-1ZB-1ZE, Disc 288mm, 312mm) I've just jumped on MTEC site as thats where i got the discs and it shows 2 fronts (276mm & 312mm) and only 272mm for rear. In my pic the fronts are bigger than rear so I would think they were 312mm. Do you have an options sticker in boot? It may show what code the brakes are on that (i know it does on my A6). The Euro discount has another 5 days on it.

The Haldex isnt part of the service schedule. I brought my Scout at 75K with no reference to it having been done (it had full Skoda history) so as soon as I got it I had the oil done and gauze cleaned. I took mine to an Audi specialist and when i mentioned the gauze they knew of it and said they did it as part of the change.

I've just tested the wife's Mini and they self test everytime you switch lights on - I started ignition turned lights on, they self test, turned light off and then back on and self tested again. Tbh i thought they just self tested once when you switched the car on regardless of lights on or off. I would go to car, switch lights on first, then start engine and see if they self test, otherwise You'd need a member on here to test and say exactly what happens on facelift LED's.

Im in this exact position, all be it a different manufacturer. As an example my mirror heater failed so it needed a new glass, it was covered under the warranty and was £230. I can extend mine and are considering it as its a very comprehensive warranty, but not cheap. As for breakdown I got it as and addition to my insurance for me and the missus, any car as long as less than 15 years old, same cover as you for £138

I like Brembo, thats what I used on my 2015 Scout. Not cheap but they are good and I see that Euro have a discount on at the minute (according to the email I got this morning 45% of pads, discs, etc) although it says not performance parts so you'd need to have a look yourself.

I like to see full history, receipts (although GDPR kills some of this stuff now), matching tyres, I check the panel alignment etc, look for paint - even pull back seal if in doubt. Haldex isnt part of the service schedule, if no proof its been done get it done. I think its around 38K mark it should be done and also have the strainer cleaned. Yes a good clean is a winner if your not happy to do yourself although i would say discuss your requirements with the person as opposed to opting for the latest thing. Theres so many waxes and sealants out there.

Ok, Did this happen at night and you turned ignition on (lights came straight on) and they didn't self test, or did you turn ignition on in lighter hours and then you manually turn lights on in which case it may have already self tested but you wouldn't have seen it? The fact there was no dash error suggests there wasn't an issue - The error will be there for a long as the problem is (so for me when plug dried out, the message went, when it got damp the message came back). I have also heard of success stories with cars 'just out of warranty' so if there is an issue its worth taking it up with the dealer ...... very soon, like now.

£10 is about the normal price for the DIY cans although I see Euro do a holts one for £6. What brand is the one in the mag?

Have a scroll through this, it may help. Inside Canton amp

Does the canton sub have enough power to drive a 15"?

If it happens again and you are able to, see if the lights both self test or whether only one does - In a nutshell both self testing would to me indicate a sensor, plug, wiring issue and if just one self tests then id suggest an issue with motor in the light.

Assume they are LED being MK3 Facelift? I had the same warnings on my Oct 2 Scout with Xenons and it was an issue (for me) with water in the plug that connected to the headlight levelling sensor on the from arm - Thats why mine was temperamental as it would dry out and it was then a weather dependant issue. Once I had worked that out I siliconed it and it was fine. For you, my guess would have been a faulty levelling sensor (either front or rear) or plug / wiring to said levelling sensors. The fact it cleared itself (and assume it didn't come back on) is a strange one. Your lights should self test (up and down) when starting up regardless of whether lights are on - If you get that warning again I'd expect the light to stay in the down position as it 'protects' on coming drivers from being potentially dazzled. Really you want to put diags on it so at least you know where to start looking if it happens again.

I said reasonable (as in they aren't budget). Personally I dont like P Zeros, I had them on my A6 Allroad and i thought they were shocking. When I got an irrepairable puncture i changed them all and went for Rainsport 3's, the other 3 P Zeros are sat in the garage with 6mm of tread on ..... Thats how much I didnt like them

Reasonable tyres then - once they start to sawtooth it will just get worse. Get it booked in for an alignment. I actually had mine done at Kwik Fit and they did a good job .... as mentioned above, its finding someone who knows how to use the kit

In my younger days when the lads were running Escort RS turbos or similar they had turbo timers that let the engines run for anywhere up to 2 mins after turning engines off when they had been giving it the beans ---- If you used that as a benchmark, your doing 70 (As thats the speed limit ) and coming off at services, by the time you've got into the slow lane say up to 1 mile prior to the exit, pulled into services and parked etc, that should be more than enough time to achieve cool down as the turbo wont of been working hard for that period of time, approx 2 mins. I would definitely take it easy when driving from cold.

What brand tyres - I had this on my Oct 2 Scout which had 'budget tyres' on when I purchased it - replaced tyres with Conti's all round & had alignment and it was fine, even when subsequently the new tyres needed replacing a year or so later it was still quiet.

Yeah the glovebox damper thing is a b*tch ----- I had the glovebox out 3 times, the 2nd time I shafted the damper.

Do you really think the noise is that bad? I've had a couple of Oct 2 Scouts and the road noise was fairly poor, The first i didnt keep long enough but the second I actually brought a load of sound deadening to do it myself (having fully dynamatted my old MK2 Golf years ago). Firstly I swapped the tyres as it had some cheap winter tyres on (Similair to the 1st Scout) and I swapped for 4 Continental Winter Contacts and that made a hugh difference - enough that i didnt end up sound deadening. If you are intent on doing it, maybe do boot first and I'd do it yourself as its easy. The boot carpet is really thin and im convinced that was a huge factor.

Ive just checked and mine had the Original Line bulbs in it when i brought it (as ive got the old bulbs) and changed to the cool intense blue. Your right that it appears to be slightly dimmer, i wonder if thats just due to the coating on the bulb. I didnt take any comparison pics (thought I had) but they were definitely whiter on full beam and i would have said brighter but that may just be due to the colour.