brettikivi

this would be my first idea. i would expect a bad door module somewhere. is it weather affected? my 2018 does not lock always properly when colder than -15C but now it is only -7, it is fine. if there are no fault codes, I would try disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes to allow a complete restart of the bus. Also: did you try with different keys? and did you also already replace the battery in those keys?

looks like my lamp is waiting in a Posti locker for me to pick it up... now to book a space to fit it on Sunday, along with the mudflaps, maybe even a car wash...

€40 for the set of flaps delivered ain't too shabby. Now to order the parts for my other project for next weekend: a Lazer Linear 18 Elite ... to be switched off the BCM.

mine decided to mess with this the other day... but then it was -26C, so I put it down to some moisture in a lock and a "safe" signal from a door not being transmitted cleanly.

wow! kopacek seem to have them for €14 per set, so a total of €28 for front and rear...

washed it on the way home last night. Realised it's only the second time I've washed it and I've had it since October... and I've done 12000kms since then. Man, was it dirty. Also realized I've destroyed front passender side mudflap with some snow, so I'll need to get a new one. Are there semi-flexible flaps as well or just the stiff ones?

I suspect the wheel / tyre combo is quite a lot lighter, which should account for some of the difference.

did some more tuning with the sub in the new audio system... turns out someone had added bass boost. With that off and the gain turned up a tad, we are in business. Drops beautifully, highlights the super-deep bass on stuff like that NPR Ed Sheeran "tiny desk" gig or Daft Punk. Tidal also sounds significantly better than Spotify, too, which is a nice bonus.

the disk / SDCard needs to be ExFAT for it to be seen. If you format it in the Mac, it quite possibly won't be seen properly by the car. I would format in a camera for example if possible. . Bret

IMO: the bluetooth issue with Spotify is Spotify on the phone, not the head unit. Spotify's inner workings are currently terrible. I have multiple setups where the phone refuses to talk to the correct connected device and continues to play through the phone speaker - and not just on the Skoda. Then there's Spotify not pushing title updates to the screen (again, this is not the phone, it's Spotify - Youtube is correct, as are SD card tracks...) and I haven't found a workaround yet. My Nokia 8.3 is worse than the 8.1 for debating whether to restart playback or not - it might, it might not. No matter the head unit / car - Pioneer in the A2, Suzuki OEM in there or the MIB2 in the Superb - it's always a crapshoot. Which is why I have an SD with lots of music on in the mean time. Users to keys is easy, that works for me, but I will be trying to update if possible... now if only the updates were public... . Bret

for those who are following along, there are instructions on how to use REW without a line-in; essentially you need to create Pink noise tracks for the spectrum you want to cover. Because I know the XO on the fronts is at around 2500Hz, I've created four files, all of them stereo: - 20-150Hz for the Sub -50 to 4000Hz for the mids - 2500Hz to 24kHz for the tweeters. I'll add these to the SD that has the music. Important not to go too low for the tweeters or you'll blow them up. The idea is then to measure each channel using the correct file. I'll set a basic crossover before testing - 2500Hz for the tweeters at least - and then measure. REW can create the biquad filters I can apply directly to the C-DSP, so they can be applied per channel and I don't need to create specific equalizations (I've only got 8 bands of full parametric available), so the biquad is a better answer anyway. Interested to see how this sounds before and after, will try to get some time to play with this this week still, got to do 1000 miles next week I fear....

i'm not sure it's going to be anywhere near as good as a decent aftermarket one. I'd be interested to hear the final numbers for the parts and compare to the system I've had put in. I do know I freaked out a couple of younger guys Sunday evening when filling - I'd been using Drake's "hotline bling" to test and there's quite a lot of bass and it wasn't quiet the guys looked at me funny when i emerged from the car, as I figure they weren't expecting a graying forty-something rather than a young dude with that much bass Very happy with the system now I've played with the crossovers and taken some of the bass off the front doors and letting the Sub do the work. It's also cleaner sounding and drops beautifully. Ed Sheeran's NPR "Tiny home" concert sounds absolutely fantastic. ^^ need to do this next, getting some spare a-pillars and then mounting & aiming the tweeters properly.

even without the ambient lighting, I can set these on... just mildly annoyed that even 10% is too bright with LED bulbs. Would be good to change this to 5% - does anyone have coding for this? Thanks! . Bret

Finally tracked down and sorted the issue with the channels - the order of them in the socket on the back of the radio unit is not as logical as it seems, so someone put the wrong high level input in place. Now with crossovers at 63Hz on the way down for the front doors and 120Hz for the sub, it's much better. Less mud, and an awful lot of deep bass. Now I need to work out how to use REW without a Line-in.... and remove the errors I added when accidentally powering up without the radio in place. D'oh! Evo 4 channel is tucked up under the right side of the dash. 1600.1 is in the left boot pocket. Need to do some temperature monitoring while it's nice and cold to check just how toasty things get in there. . Bret

webasto is awesome; note that you can't run it when the "Low fuel" light is on. And some remotes have way better range than others... I'm on my third car with it in and this is the first one with a really good range.

Got the Audio system set up the other week. Helix S62 fronts, CSS SDX10 in a 30l box (sealed) and a Mini-DSP 6x8 DSP. Amps are from Soundigital, the Evo 4 4.100 and then the 1600.1 4 ohm for the sub. Less than €500 for the amps... Initially there was an issue with one channel being lost, but now it's back. Initially wasn't too happy, got better (treble seemed too harsh). So I figured it would need more EQ, but then time aligned it late on Sunday, approximately, and the result is fantastic. Treble is no longer too fierce, and stuff like Havana just sounds awesome. Will do some measuring with the H2 and REW and see what it comes up with. There's some resonances I don't understand, but I haven't even added a cutoff on the fronts, which I do need to do.

Sunday: added time alignment to the DSP. Wow, this is good. Monday: 10 hours seat time, Helsinki and back. Boy, were those some terrible road conditions - ice rain is awful stuff. Want heated headlamp lenses, would help an awful lot. Car had multiple mm of ice on the mirrors by the time I got back home... on the way to the office the snow as so packed onto the hatch that I had to dig the hatch switch out. Over 126000km now, it's been a hectic Christmas.

I have a 256GB Sandisk Extreme in my S III and it works fine; important is to not leave more than 500 or so files in one folder or random can't find them. WMA is awful, MP3 isn't much better. FLAC works fine for the 2018 headunit in mine... What exactly are you trying to do? I just have the SD stuck in slot 2 and it just works. Nav data is in slot 1.

rolled over 123456km on the way back up here now safely in the heated garage to melt all the snow off... just reveals how damned dirty it is. Well, it's been around 5000kms in the worst weather, so I'm not really surprised. But when it's -20C you can't exactly wash outside... need to come up with a plan to wash soon.

if the instructions say the engine needs to be off, I would assume there is a good reason for this. Follow the instructions accurately or it probably won't work. Personally with stuff like this where the chance of breaking something is high, I would follow the instructions to the letter. . Bre

Also replaced my interior bulbs with LEDs. Bit of a nightmare, but hey ho. Still not sure how to handle the front door warning lights, and the front interior appears to stay on with a really dim glow... <sigh>. This is with Philips Ultinon W5Ws. Hmm. Might have to bite the bullet on the hypercolor ones - at least then I also get 4000K not 6000K. . Bret

did up north and back in two days - filled the car before leaving and returned with a half-tank. Not bad for a full load and sleet on the way up and -3 on the way back. Average according to the computer is around 5.2l/100 for these two trips. Can't complain. 300 from here and a good 50km messing around in town up there; 650 for a half tank really isn't too shabby. lots of Webasto use, too. Did notice one thing on the way home, though: I cleaned the lights with a paper towel / napkin at Vaajakoski and the light output was much, much better afterwards. Surprised but at least I know now. Also will get an offer on a Lazer Linear 18 elite shortly, as I really do need more light out the front and a mount below the number plate should mean i don't get quite so dazzled by the falling snow... maybe.

okay. I will have the tailgate apart anyway for the camera so I'll take a look.

Hi all, we drove down the other night from up north and when we got back, the wife left the boot lid open for some time. The morning after I noticed that there's some water traces on the inside. So there's been a drop or two come through when the lid was open. I've seen this on another (rental) Superb, so I'm wondering how frequent this is? I want to fit a rear view camera, so I need to take at least some of the boot apart... any thoughts? Thanks! . Bret

I did a quick check on mine at the weekend. If you have a mostly flat surface - like a carpark - you should be able to see that the kick upwards / edge of the main light pool lands at around 35 yards / metres / paces from the front of the car. That's where mine are and they light the road really well. This is with Bi-Xenons, an empty car and engine running. I saw this because there was a convenient step in the asphalt... I would suggest finding a convenient kerb or wall and moving until the edge of the light pool is visible and then measuring. If a basic setting might fix it, surely it's easier to find a member with VCDS / OBD 11 / VCP that could do it for beer money than buying your own?