Ads230

Semi-related, but can I ask: What electronic tyre inflator / pump do people use & recommend, and what connection type do they have? For context: I used to use (one that is several re-badged versions of-) this, but stopped using it as the connection type has recently broke my valve core - requiring a recent tyre replacement (which luckily already needed changing anyway). Michelin PS4S 235/35 R19s ain't cheap 😥 . Essentially, the connector is a rotating plastic female-threaded 'cuff' which connects onto the 'male' threaded valve, in-line with the inflator hose. I've found these types of connectors to initially be ok, but then the cuff often stops spinning freely as soon as it's onto the valve, and starts to wind the inflator hose up around it - making the whole attachment & detachment process a pain. It also increases friction on the valve, and subsequently the potential likelihood to cause damage to the valve core... I wondered if anyone would recommend another inflator / compressor which either uses that 'lever-connect' system (similar to a higher-end bicycle tyre inflator á lá Topeak Joe Blow), or another less 'faffy' but secure system which they swear by? Price point doesn't really matter for me so long as it's quality (no cheapo Chinese stuff) and doesn't wreck my valves 😀👍 Any recommendations much appreciated!

I think there are a few quality comparisons that have been made on this forum regarding the Mk2 to Mk3 Octavia 'features', where the older mark has been more reliable and better-engineered than the 2014-18 models. Given that things like lower-engine mounts, colour-schemed spoilers of '230' (/ special edition), and certain other parts seem to be fitted dependent on what side of bed the factory engineers got out of that morning... guess it's dependent on who built the car at factory in terms of the 'luck' received 🤷‍♂️ Mine has been good up until now, only issue was a sticking turbo actuator (which, again, appears to be common on the EA888). My friend is taking his 2017 Golf R through a Sachs clutch upgrade in the next month or so with The Phirm, and I've informed him of your experience. So will definitely ask him to check with them on the main / engine / gearbox oil seals and replace if possible, since everything's apart - as you say. So you may already have hopefully 'saved' +1 person by informing them of this issue. Wish you only good luck onwards for the future fixes, hopefully it'll come back and continue to be the 'OEM+' car you were hoping for in the first place ✌

What an absolute PitA for you 😣 - I was cringing reading the description, that is not ideal whatsoever. Really sorry to hear it! I am wondering if/when the classic water pump leak will raise its head with mine, but desperately hoping that the gearbox oil seal will do its job and stay in place generally. Still considering the a Sachs clutch upgrade later this / early next year, but the actual + potential costs are helping me kick that down the road a little bit. Hopefully some good can come out of this situation in that there may be some lessons learned for garages to check the Gbx oil seal as part of pre-aftermarket part installation to ensure it's in good order?

Assuming not...? Requirements would be a) brighter lights, and b) in keeping with UK road legislation highlighted above, ensuring any fittings are purpose-built for LEDs (and marked as such). I've not found anything specific in 30mins' searching on 'tinternet, so unless there's an unlisted page I'm not aware of, presuming it's too much to hope for an off-the-shelf product that isn't just a higher lumen Halogen

I thought about doing this a little while ago - does any one know of any reliable manufacturer & VCDS compatible (i.e., minimum faffery) solutions for this? Would of course be keen to wire up discreet LED spots behind the main grill á lá unmarked car, but very close to impersonation of an emergency service vehicle - and also additional loom wiring = increased faffery.

I knew you'd understand the 'basic bish fix' 😉 - suggesting a tongue-in-cheek solution to take one's mind off the sheer amount of cash required for (repeated) clutch upgrades... which is essentially part of the reason why I've not touched mine as yet. I somehow missed your original point regarding 'no warranty on a new clutch if mapped'. 100% agree that's a pretty stupid 'exception', likely based in their land of insurance / legalese to cover issues where it may not work with certain maps (i.e., not from well-known suppliers). Might it be worth investigating what the specifications for the Helix product(s) / SKU you had fitted are, and compare the 'max torque limit' with your outputs from the rolling road graph? The objective being to prove that the max output of the car is within the specified limits stated by Helix (if indeed it does provide these...). That would give you a pretty solid argument for mooting the point about warranty being void for a mapped car, though hopefully it wouldn't come to that and they'd honour the fact that their product has gone faulty within 15 months of fitting. Either way, wish you the best of luck with getting it sorted! (FYI - doing my own IAM Advanced Driver final test next week 👍 Hoping I pass so that theoretically I can suggest 'B-Bish' solutions with more authority 😅)

So I'm running essentially the same Stage 1 remap as you (Shark / Racingline), although still on the stock clutch. Mine gets the same condition at lower revs, higher gears - as you might expect from the stock clutch. However, I too am surprised on the Helix upgrade (although I am eyeing up a Sachs Performance clutch myself for the future). If it is contaminated with a rear oil seal issue, that would explain it. But you'd think that might fix itself over time given a bit of spirited driving... The query I have is whether the 'low(ish) revs, high gear' constitutes to "lugging the engine" (i.e., low engine speed, high load operations)? This is an open question, as I'm not an engineer and I'm not sure whether this might create the same conditions you're speaking of. It randomly sparked a memory of watching an Engineering Explained episode (if you can stand the voice...) a little while ago; just thought it might be something to consider. However, the more I think about it, the less likely it is 'lugging' the engine as - from what you describe - something is suddenly giving based on the level of torque being generated, and in all probability it is the clutch. I recognise that it's more of an 'is everything ok?' check, but the shortest fix would be to drop a cog lower and rev the thing properly 😉

I have the 'OG' "OEM+" (before it was called that) originally from Shark Performance before Ben (their main developer) moved to Racingline. I have only good things to say about them, their service, and the map I received (which originally was uploaded remotely via AW Tuning in Sidcup, before I went to Racingline's HQ in Milton Keynes for some after-care to remove a stubborn error code. If you're still unsure, do feel free to call them up and ask any detailed questions about the map etc - as they're really informative!

Same - it's great at getting glue from old badges etc off, but it's pretty mild at getting even only slightly squished bugs off the front and tar is even more difficult, taking several sessions & considerable elbow grease.. I bought a bottle of AutoBrite Just the Tonic bug & tar remover pre-pandemic, and it was excellent - but can't seem to find it anywhere on shelves any more... If you can, might be worth a punt?

I think it's a good shout. Sure, the pricing can seem high (generally for a plastic cover) - but actually it's a high quality part, it looks great, and reduces the amount of custom effort that might otherwise be involved. It's also really easy to fit and protects the lower lip from scuffs, grit rash etc. SuperSkoda / Kopacek have typically been great whenever I've used them. FYI, I might just watch out for potential unexpected import/customs fees - although I think typically they've been alright for most forum members so far.

Only the miniscule one in my profile pic I'm afraid, but it's basically the same as your mock-up 👍😎. In my view, it really improves the look of the front - especially for lighter coloured cars like white or grey.

This was my thought when I bought one too 👍. It's been great, and to be honest I'd have only ruined the job doing it myself anyway. This took 7 minutes to fit, with all the adhesive and everything included in the price.

Hi @Scoutyoda- firstly, welcome to Briskoda. This sounds familiar to a situation I had where the exhaust clamp to the turbo had come loose as it had been (re-) fitted upside down by the previous garage, causing exhaust gases to leak from the engine bay causing some "engine smell". Car still pulled strongly, but this leak obviously caused a bit more noise and vibration. It was diagnosed in seconds by the guys at QS Tuning down my way, and fixed in a jiffy. If the conditions and noises are similar to what you say, it might be worthwhile starting logically from induction through to exhaust to see where the leak, if any, is coming from 👍

Looks great! I got the Forge Racing 'Big Knob' in black 😏 (awaits forum moderation...) a while ago after a fair bit of searching around , which massively improved the whole shifting experience. Totally agreed that VAG manuals are pretty smooth with a nice shift action, and having a weighted (and slightly squatter) stick makes it even better. The Forge version is phat (I think wider than the Raceseng), but weighs in less at ~350g. I wasn't even aware of Raceseng until a few months' back, they have some good choices! Especially as I think the Forge BK may now be discontinued. The only issue with mine has been rubbing away the anodized black coating with my thumb ring, although that'd happen with most controls unless in natural finish. That, and if you leave uncovered on a sunny day, it needs genuine cooling with a damp towel before you can use it.

For me, definitely consider the tyre type itself. Having had the car 4 years with the '19 Xtremes running 225/35 Pirelli P-Zeros for 1 year, then changing to 235/35 Goodyear AS1s for a bit, and now Micheline Pilot Sport 4S('s) for the past 2 - both GY and Michelin have considerably more robust sidewall construction and are generally more hardy (whilst having much more grip) compared to the Pirellis. W. Sussex has shocking roads, and there's been enough instances in the last 2 years where I've 'dashcam-saved' the impacts into potholes - which have affected tracking - for evidence, before checking the tyres etc, in case I need to get the council to shell out for replacements (again). I am continually amazed that the PS4Ss hold up to such a beating, whereas my Pirellis definitely were damaged considerably more in the year I had them. Recommend switching to GY or Michelin if you can, and increase the width to 235/35 if you haven't already for more grip, more sidewall protection, and generally a better tyre all round. Especially in the wetter months.

I'll be following you down this route, although it's likely it'll be a Sachs performance clutch at this rate. If I'm going to be spending the money on the labour for the garage to remove subframe, gearbox etc., I'd want peace-of-mind that it'll handle the additional torque and not have to be taken out for a while. Saving up for the work probably next year, as at the moment it is very occasional slip - as you say, in higher gears under heavier acceleration. Not often, but it's always in the back of my mind in 4th doing 50mph and pushing the foot down...

All this fuel chat is genuinely interesting and all, but is it just me or do ESSO love ❤ a Vauxhall in their marketing / promos? Like who in their right minds makes the decision that putting a Mokka in the promotion of anything positive in the automotive industry is a good idea...

Check out the warranty for APR, Revo etc., as they effectively have guarantees around services and issue management if it gives you any peace of mind. Going direct to the supplier (and/or calling them up first) is also recommended, so you can ask any questions to them. I had a Shark (now Racingline) map uploaded remotely via a tuner garage years ago, with the only issue being a tripped 'EMS' light. Racingline honoured investigating the issue, sorting it out for free in Milton Keynes, and generally being brilliant and really informative during the whole process.

Hi @GillySmiff - welcome to the forum. FYI, there is a pinned post on the Octavia III forum page here which should help you:

To add to the above comments, another way to differentiate between the pre-facelift (PFL) 220 and 230 would be to check the options list to see if you have the electronic differential (E-Diff) on the vehicle. If not, it's the 220. And as Langers said, if it states it has 217BHP then it'll be the 2016 '220' version. Nowadays it's almost impossible to determine between the 2014-2016 PFL 220 and 230 visually, as so many of the 220s had the options packs (black package, 19" wheels etc) as added extras that the 230 had as OEM from 2016 🥴 I'm still trying to understand why my 230 didn't come with the obligatory 'black spoiler' that it was touted to have back in the day 🙄

Give it a bit of time to 'bed in' - mine took about 1000-1500 miles before it sort of 'settled' (i.e., stopped being as boomy / tinny, and modulated through the rev range). I'm sure most would call it BS and say "you just got used to it", but I am fairly well tuned into most noises generally in the Octavia and it definitely refined its noise. I guess at the end of the day, it is effectively an 'off the shelf' item rather than fully customised exhaust, so not that surprised it comes in as second best to something tuned specifically for your previous MkII. Still hope you enjoy it though

Really interested to hear what you think, but I'm pretty confident you won't be disappointed. It's certainly got a lot more (good) attention since being fitted a few years ago 👌 VAG fanboy / nerd / too much time on hands 😅

👋 I have! Have had it on for the past 3 years, having 'accidentally' bought the non-resonated version first and realising my mistake pretty early on 😅 100% it makes a significant improvement to the sound - although mine is turbo-back, so I got the 3" downpipe and sports cat. - which is obviously less restrictive, and so perhaps noisier. So depends on whether you're looking to go turbo-back, or cat-back as to the 'depth' of sound. But I was at a small Brisky meet where one of the chaps had a cat-back and the noise difference was minimal, and still definitely louder than OEM. I've not got any audio equipment that'll really do the sound justice; there are a few vids on YouTube which are perhaps better than what I could achieve anyway. It burbles on overrun (but not pops / bangs unless the engine's mapped that way), and makes a lovely deep note on cold start up. Generally, it is a lot less restrictive and 'sounds like it should do'. Noise / Vibration / Harshness will increase (naturally), but with the non-res setup it's definitely within acceptable levels. As the Octy III has minimal sound dampening, you'll hear it more in the cabin - but it's not a drone (like it was with the non-resonated setup!). When i very occasionally ferry people around in the back, they do note that it's a fair bit louder than a standard car - but when you've got a cavernous boot space in the hatch (like ours), let alone the estate, that's perhaps the reason. But it's definitely manageable. I rate Scorpion very very highly. I called them up to ask all sorts of questions before I bought the exhaust too, and they the customer service guys were really passionate, knowledgeable and helpful in helping me select what I wanted. Including when I said I'd made a mistake and "Could I please have the resonator back...?" after a long round trip to Birmingham and back in a day, where I basically went deaf 😁

In all honesty, it's the first time I've heard of "Road+" mentioned anywhere regarding Miltek's exhausts, and I can't find more information on how it differs between Res & Non-Res on their website. It may be worthwhile calling them up to ask them what the differences are (both in terms of noise and actual mechanical benefits over the standard Res system). I called up Scorpion before I purchased my exhaust and they were fantastic at explaining all the info about both systems and pros/cons of each.

@Crazydragon - As Ords helpfully pointed out above, there are multiple threads on the forum about fitting aftermarket exhausts to the VRS. In all honesty, there's very little variation in changing the tone of the EA888 engine between different aftermarket exhaust systems (e.g., Milltek, Scorpion, Remus etc) heard from the back of the car - but they are all significantly louder than OEM. Pops and bangs can be gained from remapping, and/or minor sound gains with a non-resonated system. However - a word of warning re: non-resonated - given your statement above and not annoying the neighbours or wife, from experience I WOULDN'T advise you go for non-resonated. Granted, it does sound awesome outside the car. But the Octavia has very little internal sound deadening and the drone from the non-res'd systems is pretty unbearable for any length of motorway / long journey. I know, as I had a non-res'd turbo-back (i.e. plus bigger downpipe) Scorpion system on mine for 3 months before I bought the resonator for it; having done weekly trips from Sussex to Birmingham for those 12 weeks 😅 Resonated might be the 'quietest', but it's all relative! 'Quiet' is still a lot louder and more fruity than the OEM setup.