simonds3135

Thanks for confirming and thanks everyone else for your replies too 🙂

Yes but isn't the Kodiaq the only vehicle with the external sound booster? I have a MK3 Octavia VRS and I've coded the sound actuator off, but there is obviously no external one on that, it's just fake noise in the cabin

I wouldn't think of it as adding internal sound, as most car manufacturers have internal fake sound these days. I would look at it as Skoda have added the outside noise. So I would think it was perfectly normal to have an external sound booster aswell as inside noise.

Sorry, I should have said, I assumed both systems would work in the same way. The diesel I was asking about. I haven't got one but am looking to buy one. Was just curious if you could keep the 'outside' noise but get rid of the 'inside' noise. I haven't even test driven one yet to hear what it's actually like, I'm just going from video reviews on YouTube. It sounds quite cool from the outside but am thinking it could get a bit droney on the inside

Oh really? That's interesting

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but does anyone know if OBDeleven (or anything else) has the ability to code the inside cabin noise off but leave the external sound booster on?

That's brilliant, thank you so much for your help. I'm guessing it's better to have a cable that's slightly too thick rather than too thin?

I'm thinking something like this would do the trick?... 49.2ft 18AWG 3×0.75mm² Electrical Wire 3 Core, 18 Gauge 3 Conductor Black PVC Case Stranded Low Voltage Cable High Temperature Resistant,Tinned Copper Automotive Wires, Flexible Extension Power Cord https://amzn.eu/d/3OzAdmb

How would I work out the required cable size for the voltage drop? If there was a voltage drop, would it not work correctly? The control box is bulkier than it seems, especially when you're trying to hide it in some roof lining or behind some trim! It's 50mm x 43mm x 20mm.

Well yes, I was thinking that but I'm not sure where to start really. It's a lot easier to test a fusebox for perm live and acc live etc than a bunch of wires going everywhere in the boot of the car 😕 Plus isn't it much safer to start in the fusebox? You'd have to add in some sort of fuse if you managed to tap into the rear wiring somewhere wouldn't you? 🤔

Hi TheClient, thanks for your detailed response. Well I did think of extending the power side of the 'box' and leaving the USB side as it is from factory, but to get the box out of the way, I'd have to extend the power side to nearly 4m just so the box could be in the rear of the car. I'm guessing that's safe and it would still actually function correctly? Seems very silly, nothing is ever simple! 😄

Has anyone on here managed to fit a GARMIN dashcam in the rear of their Octavia Mk3 Estate? I'm guessing no, because it's absolutely flipping impossible! I have seen lots of other dashcam threads on here where people have fitted rear dashcams, but none that mention GARMIN cameras. The only reason the GARMIN part is important is the parking mode (hardwire) cable they use. The cable is down as being 4m long on the specifications, which when I did a quick flash down the side of the car with a tape measure from the fusebox to the centre of the rear window (and added a bit for good measure), would have been about right. But little did I know, that 4m would be the overall length of the cable, not just the USB part coming out of the 'control box' like I thought it would be. The USB part of the cable coming from the box is actually only 3m long, then there is a 1m section the other side going to the fusebox etc. GARMIN obviously created this cable at a time when rear dashcams weren't a thing as it's just far too short. The overall length is okay, but this would put the 'control box' (which is part way down the cable) right smack at the top of the A pillar, where a) there is no room and b) there are air bags. I'm guessing that because of this, I simply cannot have a GARMIN dashcam in the rear of my car and it's just tough luck, but I wanted to see if anyone else had any genius ideas or used a different cable or extended the GARMIN cable or whatever. I only went with a GARMIN camera (DashCam Mini 2) for the rear because I already had a GARMIN DashCam 56 in the front, so to link them up, the rear one would also need to be a GARMIN. Any help or advice on this would be hugely appreciated! 🙂

Hi J.R, apologies for reviving an old thread but I need to bleed my clutch so was reading various posts on here and just wondered where you came across this information that a pressure bleeder is not necessary and the system is designed to be 'gravity bled'? I downloaded the Skoda workshop manuals and they say to use a pressure bleeder? 🤔

Is there any other way of 'factory resetting' the car's ECU / coding? I'm not really sure how the coding bits are stored but I remember the first time my Skoda dealer did a software update on the car it actually erased my remap (Superchips Bluefin) but all of my OBDeleven codings were still there 🤔

Unfortunately I was stupid and didn't take a backup back when I first got OBDeleven 😔 As I was only going to be using the 'one click apps', which I assumed were tried & tested and wouldn't come with any issues, I didn't bother. Damnit. I have got the full audit trail still.