JonA

We (Norway) get the new cars delivered without tail lights on when running with the DRL's on and light switch in either "auto" or "0". The tail lamps (when using DRL's) can be activated using a function in the dealer diagnostic equipment. I don't think activating tail lamps alters coding, but that it is more of an adaption?? This could change, and UK dealers might have different software on their diagnostic machines, but I do it all the time with the software i have on "my" VAS 5051B. I used basis CD 18.00 until today, and updated to 18.01.01 today. I have not checked if the function still exists with the new software installed on the VAS5051B. Hope you get it sorted! :yes:

Pairing the remote control with the car should be done using the dealer diagnostic tool, but you could try the "stone age" way (which works when retrofitting a Webasto remote in Octavia cars) Remove fuse for heater remote reciever/ECU, (I don't remember which one it is, but it should be easy to find in the users manual) install the fuse again, and before 5 seconds have passed, press one of the buttons on the remote for at least one second. If pressing the "off" button doesn't work, try the "on" button after having removed the fuse once more. Good luck! :yes:

Nothing to worry about.. I would guess an intermittent fault in communication with either the rain sensor or the wiper motor. Might turn up again, and maybe not. These fault codes should be considered information, and not faults that must be repaired. The VAS tool that dealers uses says that if no customer complaint is present, and everything works when checking, erase the fault and be happy

I've got basis cd 18.00 in the VAS I use, so I'll give it a go tomorrow.. Thanks for the help!

Nope.. Not much help when working with the VAS 5051B... Just lot's of programmes that doesn't work, lot's of non existent programmes on both new and old cars when working with GFF, and no possibillty to "go manual" via self diagnostics because of non incomplete repair manuals with no lists of channels etc.. I might just go ahead and buy VCDS of some sort in the future..

Could anyone tell me which channel I need to adapt to enable the "staging" function on a Yeti? I use the original VAS diagnostics, and it doesn't have any description of what I am about to change if i enter adaption via self diagnostics of the instrument cluster. The activation of staging is not available through GFF either.. It's sad to consider buying VCDS software when you work at a dealer.. Says something of how BAD the original VAS diagnostics software is.. :'(

Congratulations!!!

Have you unticked the Rain Close box in the Maxi-Dot menu? If I do this on my car, windows won't close and nether will the roof/sunblind..

h0rr: I have the Sound System combined with the Columbus headunit/sat-nav.

You could use a standard GPS aerial inside the dash.. Worked a treat when I installed a Pioneer AVIC system in my previous car, a Fabia II. Pre facelift Fabia II and Roomsters use a similar solution even on factory installed systems. :yes:

The sound system does add a few nice features, like the DSP, a separate amplifier, and more/ higher quality speakers. I have it in my Yeti, and i don't think it's worth what it cost. The components the system consists of might be OK, but the doors/door cards etc. resonate and vibrate like it's about to self destruct when you play at any volume if the music you listen to contains ANY bass. I have removed and tried to insulate/ kill the vibration from all the door cards, but they still play along with the bass in the music and partially destroy the music I listen to. If you are an audiophile, stay away from Skoda unless you want to build your own serious system. The Sound System is the same in the Superb II and the Octavia II FL. :S

DISS: Direct information System Service. It works like this: An official dealer reports a fault (often accompanied by either pictures/movie clips or sound files and reports from the diagnostic machine), the importers service centre receives, sorts, reads and translates the message from the dealer. If the importer does not have a solution to the problem, the message is forwarded to the Skoda service centre in CZ. IF and only IF there are enough complaints regarding one specific fault, the tech people at the factory try to create a solution to the problem. This solution / TPI is then posted in a part of the ELSA system, which is available for certified dealers. The factory could also issue a recall based on the feedback they receive from the dealers through the DISS system. There are no official repair solutions concerning water leaks on the Yeti in the ELSA system at this time. I checked today. I have not checked if the panorama roof/drains on the Tiguan and the Q5 share parts with the Yeti, but my guess is that they do... :yes:

Yup... Snake Oil, B.S. .. No need for it!

I think you are very welcome on this forum, like anybody else I'm having some problems with understanding your English from time to time, but that could be me being from Norway When it comes to the problem with your car, I hope that it is sorted quick, and my guess would be that your car/ engine ECU needs a software update.. Every Skoda dealer ought to be able to do this, and it should be free of charge on a car as new as yours Jon A

Rear lights are controlled by the BCM / J-519 ecu. There are no CAN(controller area network)-BUS wires that run from the BCM controller and to the light clusters. BUT, some of the bulbs are powered by PWM (pulse width modulation) signals, and all the bulbs are checked by the BCM. The PWM signals make it possible to use a 21W single filament bulb as both taillight and brakelight by changing the pulses to the bulb.

The service interval on new Skoda cars running on Variable Service intervals is FROM 15000km / 1 year and UP TO 30000km and two years. Your driving style/driving pattern, number of cold starts etc. decides when it's time for a service. If you would like you can have the car run on fixed intervals, at that would mean one service every 15000km or once a year.

You can buy it here as well My link Mine creaks like h### from the door seals as well, but mostly when it's been standing in the sun. The noise from the seals is quickly drowned by other worse creaks so I tend not to worry about the creaky seals..

Wonder what the TPI will say... ? Once the damage is done (paint worn trough to primer) the only solution would be to have the door painted, and I don't see that happening on lot's of cars.. Jon A

Never seen this happen on any of the Yeti's I have had the pleasure of repairing or on my own car. On mine it's probably down to the fact that I clean my car "constantly", I doubt if this would happen unless dirt/dust got caught between the handle and the door skin/paint, but on the other side, it would be unreasonable to expect all Yeti drivers to clean their car all the time to avoid paint being rubbed of it's body.. I doubt that this is caused by the fact that the Russian sold Yeti's might be assembled in Russia. :S

The Plumber beat me by a minute

Useful link, but don't use this as a repair manual for the haldex on your Yeti as this is a Haldex2 coupling, and the one used in the Yeti is a Haldex4 coupling :yes:

Engines without a DPF does not have the (often faulty) G-450 Exhaust differential pressure sender, so in this case we can not blame this sensor..

The "Emissions Workshop" usually means something is wrong with a sensor that affects emissions. I would rather call it an engine management problem light :yes: Go see your dealer or someone with "VAG com" to read out the fault memory, and it should give a good indication of what is wrong with your car Jon A

Easy! Tools: Torx 25 for the screws in the wheel arches. Three or four of the screws securing the plastic inner fenders on each side has to be removed, bend the plastic inner fender until you can access one (on each side) T25 screw which secures the bumper to a plastic fitting under the bumper. Remove tail lamps, these have one screw each accessible from the luggage compartment, and then they can be carefully levered out of two "clips" near the outer edges of the tail lamps. Unscrew two T30 bolts on each side of the bumper (under the tail lamps) Unclip the two plastic "rivets" under the car. Pull on the bumpers sides near the top to release the bumper from the plastic fitting on the cars body, and the bumper is ready to come off Everything can be done without lifting the car up. If I remember correctly there are markings for the sensors, but don't shoot me if I'm wrong. There are at least marks where the centre of the bumper is, and this makes it pretty easy to find where the sensor holes should be drilled. I recomend a drill bit that looks something like this My link when drilling the holes in the relatively soft plastic bumper. Good luck! Jon A

I can't think of one reason why heated seats shouldn't be fitted to all cars, at least the ones meant to be driven in the northern hemisphere.. feels great! In the Yeti (and all other Skoda cars with heated seats) both the seat base and the back support is heated. If you don't rest sharp objects against the base of the seat or lean your knee in the seat when picking things up or cleaning the inside of the car, the heating elements last a LONG time as well :yes: If the BCM/ J-519 registers low battery voltage, it will shut down operation of the heated rear screen, heated seats etc.. Smart!