JonA

There is no fluid in the Citigo PAS system. Its an electromechanical system with the electrical motor built into the steering coloumn.

Idle speed varies with the battery voltage as well as DPF regeneration. If the battery voltage is low, it will idle at higher rpm's to boost the output of the generator.

May I ask how much you saved by buying in DK, and what are the waranty conditions? Enjoy your new Citigo when it arrives :-) I'm sure the car will be just fine, but you should check the antifreeze before taking it into very cold parts of Norway.

I'm sure the OP will be perfectly happy with the replacement tyre.. The differences between the one originally fitted tyre and the replacement is marginal. I doubt if it is more dangerous driving with these tyres than driving on ground that has 2mm deeper tracks on one side compared to the other side. The law (at least in Norway, and we are also using EU standards) is that the tyres on one axle (in addition to conform with the requirements when it comes to load and speed index) should be as close in thread pattern as possible to the one on the other side. This is as good as it gets. :-)

Hi. 1: I have driven the Citigo with a sunroof roughly 500km's and I didn't find it noisy at all. As long as it's closed and properly adjusted it should produce little noise. My last car was a Yeti with a glass roof, and if that was covered in ice and snow it made a lot of unwanted creaking noises when driving. I would not rule out the posibility of a few creaks and squiking noises during the winter if opting for the roof, but if you can live with that I'd say go for it. 2: I haven't seen any numbers, but I would guess the roof ads about 10 kg to the weight of the car. Nothing you will notice when it comes to petrol consumption etc. 3: Lot's of cars with sunroofs have leaked, lot's have not... Leaks can be fixed. Have the leaks you have read about on the Up been related to the roof drains? Good luck with your Citigo! I'm considering one as my car number two, and if I get one, it will have the glass roof :-)

The Citigo Sport looks good! Is it confirmed as a model line, or is it just a "study" ? I haven't heard anything about it here in Norway..

Sold my Yeti, and bought a "Gay Hairdressers car". Love my "new" 2010 20th Anniversary Edition MX-5, miss some of the Yetis qualities but I'm happy with the car change this far. I don`t feel gay at all.. Just happy driving a great (if somewhat underengined) drivers car that does not rattle or squeak :-)

I'm 38, but still feels and sometimes acts like I'm 18

I'm a certified Skoda Master Technician. You are correct about both front and rear differentials being open The integrated clutch package you see in presentations is the Haldex coupling which connects the rear diff with the output shaft comming from the gearbox. This clutch package is activated by oil pressure produced by an electrical pump. The pressure is controlled by an electric valve. This system does not need spinning front wheels to build up pressure to activate the Haldex coupling. EDS works on all wheels. If the rear diff was equipped with a mechanical diff lock, the rear wheel in the air on videos would rotate with the same speed as the one on the ground. Regards JonA

The Haldex 4 unit used in the Yeti uses an OPEN rear differential. The only thing that vaguely resembles a diff lock of some sort is the EDS provided by the ESP/brake system. It tries to brake a spinning wheel by applying the brake on that wheel. Not a real "off road system", but it works OK for what the car is designed to cope with.

Like someone earlier in the thread said: Untick the "RAIN CLOSE" box in the Maxi-Dot. and the windows will not auto close.

On the Amundsen you can copy the maps to an SD card and if you leave the SD card in the slot you can navigate while listening to a CD. Navigation is also said to be faster that way.

The recall is called 91G6, and concerns certain Superb II, Octavia II and Yeti cars. It's a simple software update of the steering wheel controller (16) to prevent MF switches, horn etc. from failing. Nothing to worry about, and certainly not replacement of the power steering pump (the Yeti has electrical power steering and therefore no power steering pump ) Hope this clears things up :yes:

Yes they are made of hardened glass (like the side windows) and are not laminated.

Check under your drivers seat. If your car has a phone system, it will have a control unit under a black plastic cover under the right hand front seat.

Thanks I still would not worry, I haven't seen one high pressure pump failure yet, and we have sold "a few"

Never heard of fuel pump failure on a common rail engine before as long as it has been fed with diesel. On diesel cars that have been filled with petrol, pump failure could happen any time. Never heard that all Yeti cars with diesel engines were faulty either :no: If the sound the engine makes is the same as all other comparable engines, I would call it a characteristic or a feature instead of a fault. My diesel Yeti has covered around 25K km's without any problems with any of the diesel pumps.

I'm not telling stories. I'm telling how it is and should be done. All Skoda dealers should be doing this the same way, as they all have the same systems to work with. The system is called ElsaPro and various VAS 505Xx diagnostics machines. The info displayed there ought to be the same for dealers in the UK, Denmark, Norway, CZ etc. etc. What dealers TELL you on the other hand is something else. I think you/your dealer might be talking about recalls/mandatory upgrades? As these will show when the chassis number/ vehicle ID is punched into ElsaPro. :yes:

Yes I am sure about that.. There is NO WAY to check if the software in all the different systems ECUs is the newest version in one operation. This is with todays Skoda dealer diagnostics, I'm sure things will change in not to long :yes: Each ECU has to be adressed separately, data is sendt to a Skoda server, software is checked for validity, and the dealers diagnostics tells the technician if the software CAN be updated. There are quite a few ECUs in a Yeti (I would guess about 40 in a car with a few options) and checking the software in all of them would take at least a couple of hours. If the software in ONE is to be updated, and a large amount of data is deleted and rewritten it can take up to an hour, plus basic setting of related components and coding after the software update. :wonder:

I've done the following software upgrades on my car: 2010 model built in 2009, 140 TDI CBDB engine, manual 4x4 transmission. Engine software: One update, to prevent the EGR valve from freezing up when driving in the winter. This happened once prior to the update, and resulted in a flashing glow plug light, engine management light and the engine in "limp home mode". Never happened after the update. Sound system amplifier: One update to prevent unwanted noises from the speakers. Columbus sat nav: One update to prevent the screen from freezing, slow start up time etc. MDI: One update to ensure compatibility with Apple products. This one can be done at home with a USB memory stick. Software can be found at the bottom of this page: My link Software updates are seldom done when the car is serviced unless if there is a customer complaint, or if the technician identifies a problem, and the solution is a software update.

There is no limited slip differential in the Yeti, only an electronic/hydraulic system that applies brakes on a spinning wheel.

OEM tyres doesn't have to be the same as the "aftermarket tyre" even if the tyre is from the same manufacturer and is the same model and size. Rubber mix, thread depth, load index etc. can vary from OEM tyres to the ones meant for the aftermarket. The reason (that i've been told by the largest tyre importers in Norway when attending a tyre related class) is that tyres fitted to new cars must perform well in handling tests, and how long they last isn't that important. A softer rubber mix and less thread depth might, leading to shorter tyre life could be the result.. This could of course be just "marketing speak" to make sure customers keep buying the brand that was fitted as OEM even if the tyre wears to fast, but it is something to consider. Especially if you are satisfied with everything about the tyre except how long it lasts.. :yes:

Yes, you are right :yes:

Spot on! And like magic62 says, buy some of the clips (item 16) to secure it to the condenser