SheffieldVRS

Did you check the boost pipes ^ and do you get a noise like air escaping from a tyre? An EGR won't cause a sudden loss of power like you describe.

Anyone know the % of green tint used. Was considering putting 70% on the fronts when I tint mine but that will take it over the legal limit.

Anyone know if the factory glass has a tint as it has a slightly green hue when wet in the morning

Somebody ran out of inspiration or motivation when designing that front end.

Have you checked the intake pipe between the airbox and turbo for splits? If you have a bluetooth OBD and Torque you can check MAF, fuel trims, air temps etc on the fly to see if there is anything suspicious.

That user was last seen on the forum in 2013 so you probably won't get an answer.

It can happen but this kit has already done 40+k with the last owner. I can get reman 20v heads fairly cheap and it wouldnt cost much more to have hardened seats put in. Easily offset by the cost of running in the first year.

Good point. For the cost I am going to go on fixed interval servicing but use longlife oil. An oil drop once a year at that cost is not expensive or time consuming for peace of mind. I intend on keeping it for a few years as running it on LPG is rediculously economical. I'm just hoping it stays reliable

Do you know roughly where abouts in the engine bay? Have a listen with the bonnet up and try and work out front or rear, top end, timing side etc.

Do you get the impression these cars are one step up on a sieve. I had a boot leak on mine but handily resolved due to an ancient thread on here. Thanks to Bowders without wanting to resurrect the thread.

Usually one of the boost pipes are split. Does it sound like you have a puncture on your tyre but louder and have you lost any performance?

Thanks Tom. The car is on variable so will stick to quantum 05w-30 longlife. £20 quid seems like a good price for aswell

Took the intake pipe off last weekend and had a look at the TB. Didnt seem overly bad but propped the butterfly open and wiped out the slight build up. Idles slightly better but cleaned the MAF + AIT sensor and it seems to idle as it should now. Still couldn't detrmine if 10-40w semi or 05-30w synthetic is the correct oil if anyone could help?

Quick update on this incase anyone finds it on Google with a similar problem. Bought some electrical contact cleaner fom Halfords, cleaned the MAF and air intake temp sensor. The MAF didnt really leave any deposits in the run off but the AIT had some baked on oil. Quick rub of the AIT with a cotton bud brought it up looking nice. Filled up with some premium petrol, turned the LPG system off and went for a drive. Car now boosts stong hitting 10psi although will drop off to 8psi. MAF values go up to about 160g at high RPM so it looks to have resolved. Idle is also now smooth. Well worth a £3.50 punt before changing the MAF.

97k with full history

Ran home with the MAF unplugged and it seemed to run smoother. No big hit of boost in 1st, all gears beyond that pulled smoothly. Couldn't feel any difference in power (compared to maf plugged in) pulling through the rev range. Turbo also sounded like it was boosting constant. Not sure if it means my MAF is knacked or the problem is elsewhere and being masked by then MAF being disconnected.

I drove quite a few of these when they were new cars and this one feels like its lacking. When it comes on boost it pulls strong momentarily then you can hear the boost drop off and feel the performance reduce. I’m using realtime graphs add on for Torque and if you scroll through the graphs you can see all the numerical data at any given point. The screenshots are taken at points of interest. Like the third pic is at nearly 4k revs but only showing 6psi. Airflow meter also looks low at sub 100 given 4k should be full boost. Threads like the one below have figures quoted higher for almost standard 150ps 20VT's http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/54049-what-peak-maf-gs-readings-do-you-get/page-2 The boost seems right as vacuum showing at approx -20 at idle.

Will try and keep this initial post to the short version. Car doesn’t feel as spritely as it should be so hooked up the bluetooth and torque. No fault codes showing in the ECU. Went for a drive and it seems to be boosting at about 5.5psi. If you floor it in first it will spike up to around 15psi but long pulls in 2nd,3rd, 4th etc all see maybe 8psi on the initial WOT but will then drop down to mid 5’s. Spent last night and today reading various VW forums and also the first 15 pages of this forum when searching for ‘boost issues’ but none of the problems seem to be the same as this. Understand it could be possibly vac pipe leaks which I am going to try and rule out tomorrow and going to try a couple of runs with the maf disconnected tonight. There are no boost pipe leaks. The N249, N75 or MAP are also areas to look at but not sure how to start ruling them out without replacing. Hoping someone has come across this or got an idea where to start. Below are a couple of screenshots showing various sensors on a longer 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear pull on the dual carriageway. The MAF looks to be reading a little low but not sure. 1st 2nd 3rd 1st ,2nd and 3rd last night 1st was nearly 15psi

Cheers Leeboy. Will give the breather pipes a good going over and have a poke around the TB before I do anything with it.

Got a few questions I can’t find a definitive answer for after google searches and thought I would stick these questions in one thread rather than start numerous. 1. I have a slightly lumpy idle when warm but when the car is cold its absolutely still on tick over. Its not bouncing like the ICV is faulty. When the throttle is pressed slightly and the revs raise 100rpm+ then the idle the engine is still again. Not sure if its couple with the slight jerkiness that I have when going back on throttle or holding light throttle at 1,800rpm. Are there any other culprits than the throttle body needing a clean? I was going to swap the plugs out in the next couple of weeks when I service to rule that out also. 2. Which leads me on to the next question. Do you have to use Vag Com to do a TB adaption after it has been off. Some information online says you can do it without. If not will VCDS lite allow you to do it? 3. Need to replace a diff seal due to a slight weep. Does anyone know the dealer part number for it? Also if I am being picky the box has a very slight catch (wouldn’t call it a crunch) when going into second in a morning but only for the first mile or so. What gearbox oil would people recommend to use, standard or drop some different aftermarket oil in. 4. Car has flashed up that it needs a service. According to the handbook and chassis its on variable servicing. What’s the correct oil? Autodata lists all sorts of grades but doesn’t state what is the correct grade and type for variable. 1. Going to replace the oil pickup for peace of mind whilst doing the service. What are people using as a good sealant

Didn't realise it was one of "those topics". Every forum seems to have them where they end up in a heated debate when posted.

You learn something new every day. I thought they could enter a contract for sold as seen if you sign a disclaimer.

That was my point, as trade in with no warranty implied but they usually carry a disclaimer on sale. May be a moot point depending on what the BIL has purchased and from who.

Depends on what it is and how much he paid for it. If it’s a retail car then he has consumer rights but if it was advertised as trade in/priced to clear etc even though it was being sold via a dealer then the waters get a bit muddier. They usually carry a disclaimer when being sold, so do you have the invoice for sale?

1. Probably an air lock, low coolant or blocked matrix. 2. From what I have read its the micro switch in the door. See this thread