Luckypants

Enyaq 80 and most other MEB chassis cars with the 77kWh battery have staggered tyre widths. Rears on are 255/45R20 so cannot be rotated with the fronts.

I suspect the car is not 'waking up' after going into standby mode while waiting for the charger to start. There has been an issue with VAG EVs where the on board charger (OBC) does not wake up after standby mode, but I would have thought your Elroq is too new for that to be happening as the problem is fixed. There are plenty of discussions online about this problem and how to fix it, if you search for them. Another thing you might want to try to rule out problems with the timer / granny charger is to remove the mains timer and use the car's built in charge timer to start charging at your desired times. This may help with the car not waking up properly too. Using the car's built in timer is electrically safer than using a mains timer. The timer can be set in the infotainment charging screen. HTH

I had this on our 2016 Citigo and it was fixed with a new O2 sensor.

I have found its much better to have the charger controlled by IOG than the car. You do get messages about charging failures/charge finished/charge started in the app as IOG stops and starts charging but it works well. Car is set to immediate charging with limit set to my target (usually 80%) and no locations set in the car. In the IOG app, my device (the charger) is set to give 100% charge by whatever ready time I want.

Well known issue on VAG cars. Water gets into the solenoid by rain running down the locking pin. This is exacerbated on EVs as the fuel door is open for long periods.

Expensive car supplement is payable years 2-6, so the keeper pays it, not the dealer on registration.

Which is what I did to go on holiday 4 weeks ago. Jumped in my fully charged car and drove 240 miles to our rented cottage. We stopped for lunch, so I charged which is sensible when away from home but the car would have got there in one hit. We couldn't.

Yes here is definitely price gouging in remote areas. A new rapid charger has opened on the LLyn Peninsula, the only one on the peninsula and is 89p - but there are 22kW AC alternatives nearby to moderate the money grab.

But a discount on a high starting point. The Ionity Motion sub brings the price down to around the same as Tesla PAYG price. The more expensive option Ionity Power would be worth it if charging a lot at Ionity. The main problem with Ionity for me is the lack of locations.

Just chiming in on costs as we've just come back from holiday to Northumberland. We covered 1305 miles with average consumption of 3.27 m/kWh (lowered by the return trip in the wind and rain yesterday 3.2 average for 240 miles). The total cost of electricity used including topping back up at home on return was £159.21, giving an overall cost per mile of 12.2p. That's pretty comparable to my Citigo petrol which is giving 11.9p/mile at current prices. My previous diesel Karoq would be about 13.6p/mile at current prices, so the ID.4 is still more economical using public chargers. I used AC chargers while visiting attractions with prices down around 53p/kWh. We did a few rapid charges, Tebay services both going and coming home, two Tesla charges as they were the same price as A/C charging and an Ionity charge to test Plug and Charge. The Ionity charge was by far the most expensive. I hope this is useful

They will have done the quick check. On VWs the form states it can be up to 10% out! If you are really concerned get them to do the "long test" which involves running the battery down the measuring the charge to 100% I believe.

IOG has worked seamlessly for me. I have my charger (Wallbox Pulsar Pro) integrated with IOG and that works dandy.

Looks like the ID.2 will be called a Polo

Those Pirellis come out top or very near the top in recent comparative tests. Good choice. I'd be tempted by the new(ish) Hankook Ion FlexClimate tyres as they are EV specific but so far have not seen any tests of them (except R Symons who I'm pretty sure are sponsored). Punctures have meant matching like for like on my ID.4, so still on OEM Hankook S1Evo3s. Aside - I have Hankook 4S2 on the Citigo and they are great.

@PetrolDave I take your point entirely. In my experience of getting my system and my soon to be daughter-in-law getting hers, all those who quoted asked the question if we wanted power cut back up. Most of those also asked if we wanted whole house back up or a specific set of sockets. So there is a very good chance IME that the layman will have the opportunity to choose, even if they don't know there is a choice. Of course there are some less reputable outfits banging in standard systems that won't meet some customer's needs especially those installing under the ECO-4 grant (or whatever its called these days). However , as with any major consumer purchase the buyer needs to be doing some due diligence checks on the suppliers they ask to quote.

This! With a gateway device to automatically put your home into 'island mode' (i.e. not connected to the outside grid) an AC coupled battery system can provide its own mini-grid at 230V/50Hz. My Givenergy system does this without interruption when a power cut occurs and will allow my solar inverter to power the house and charge the battery. If there is insufficient solar, the battery does the rest.

Turning off the internal monitoring also turns off the two away protection. It is the tow away protection that sets off the alarm on ferries. You should be able to go into the manual and search "ferry" or "ferries".

Hear! Hear!

Looks smart for its age.

Your lease seems to have gone by quickly! I just signed up for an ID.3 Match 79kWh model on lease to replace the ID.4. Happy new car to you!

@Ootohere Where is that please? We're heading north in a few weeks and National Trust properties will feature heavily.

Yes all ID.4 (and all MEB cars) are 11kW on three phase. 16 amps per phase or 3 x 3.6kW (nominal at 230V). Most cars charge at 11kW on 3-phase, mainly due to cost of the larger 22kW charger from what I understand. Most European homes have 3-phase supply but are limited on amps, so there is less demand for 22kW OBC there as most cannot take advantage.

I've held the view since about 6 months into my ID.4 ownership that 22kW 3-phase AC charging should be a standard feature on all cars. It makes destination charging pretty much all day trippers need. Of course a lot of AC chargers are only single phase, but 3-phase is common enough for 22kW charging to be a useful addition to a car.

The rear brakes get so little use on an EV, the 'sealed for life' rear drums on MEB cars are a very good idea. Just Google Tesla Rear Brake Corrosion to see why drum brakes make sense on EVs. FWIW, after you get used to the slightly spongy feel to the brakes in MEB cars, the brakes are fine and do not lack power - just press a bit harder. While on the subject of brakes, my VW ID.4 (MEB platform the same as Elroq) has only 10% pad wear on the front brakes after 4.5 years and 56k miles. So you guys can expect the brakes to last and last.

Just coming on here for a bit of a boast really. 😀 Just completed my July stats for the ID.4 and my average is 4.02 miles/kWh this month, measured as what went in, not what the car says it achieved. That bloody good for a big bus. So 4.02 miles/kWh over 987 miles with average cost of 2.17p/mile, total cost of £21.40. That cost includes one Tesla super-charge as we were not able to charge overnight on one trip away. (more on this later). Yesterday, due to an impromptu trip to the seaside, I ran the car down to 1% SoC and 2 miles of range. I left it for a couple of hours before charging to allow the car to sleep and allow the BMS to balance up the cells - SoC recovered to 3% and 9 miles of range. I then charged to 80%. By extrapolating the charge into the car I see my battery still has around 74kWh net capacity from the original 77kWh after 4.5 years and 56K miles. Not too shabby. Its not all been good news on the EV front this month. I needed a new N/S/F tyre after spotting the cords were showing on the inside edge. Turns out the cords were exposed by a deformation of the tyre, most likely from pot-hole damage. My tyre guy said those deformations can lead to rapid wear which is what had happened here. I'm glad I spotted it as we were about to get on the motorway with both my grandchildren aboard and the thought of a blowout chills me. The other potentially expensive item this month is that the car succumbed to the well known VAG fuel flap stuck issue. The fuel flap locking mechanism seizes up due to water ingress to the solenoid. This is worse on EVs than fossil cars due to the flap being open for charging much longer, so more water gets onto the locking pin. As soon as it happened, I knew the cause and was lucky in that I'd recently seen a how-to video on fixing it. As we were 130 miles from home I called the RAC as I needed a charge to get home. The RAC managed to open the flap without too much damage to the flap and body coloured cover with some handy tips from me. This is what led to the 'expensive' Tesla Charge this month. The complete charge flap has now been replaced by VW under Extended Warranty, so hopefully this problem will not appear again in my ownership. If it does, I know exactly how to fix it.