Silver Bullet

Has anyone got the blow by blow sequence of actions to flush the ABS module using VAG-COM / VCDS together with a Pressure Bleeder @15 PSI. I have managed to find the following :- SELECT MODULE 3 (ABS BRAKES) - BASIC SETTINGS (GROUP 001) - GO. After this stage I have found there is a lot of conflicting information on the net regarding the sequences to perform (ie when ABS pump is cycling do you open the bleed nipples?). NB: I have flushed the Master Cylinder (Primary / Secondary) + the Clutch, FRONT NEAR SIDE / FRONT OFFSIDE (together) AND REAR NEARSIDE / REAR OFFSIDE (also together) However fluid had stopped stopped flowing out of REAR NEAR SIDE after initial air bubbles were flushed out (done using the pressure bleeder). At no time was the M/Cylinder allowed to go dry. I ran AUTOSCAN and got a ABS OK with no faults, wierd or what. Thanks Update:- After running the ABS via VCDS tonight, bled both front wheels at the same time after it was switched off, front nearside was clear, however loads of air came out of the offside one. I discovered the braking layout is front offside to rear nearside (the problem one) and front nearside to rear offside. So will continue pressure bleeding tomorrow.

Truly a sad day, I bought mine in 2006 so I can imagin how you must feel. Its mods list is a good one. I have just put a 28mm Neuspeed on mine. Still to do is the R32 one for the front end. It looks a really nice "sleeper" car. Im interested, what do you think lets your new one down in comparison with the MK1 ??.

In 2014 I bought 2 new front std wishbones, pressed out the existing rubber bushes and replaced with Super Pro equvalents. The large rear one is a b** to press in. Before I pressed the Super Pro one in I noticed that one edge of the hole has a nice radius, the other side was sharp. This edge I radiussed and made sure the bore was smooth, Then pressed it in using a couple of thick washers and some studding. (Its shape is like a large cotton reel). Also replaced the dogbone bushes. I chose Super-Pro as its slightly softer and less prone to creating cabin vibration especially the dog bone fitting Together with Audi TT upper and lower strut brace the steering feels more responsive. NB: Good tyres also can contribute a lot to handliing. I still have got the Super-Pro bushes to fit for the rear sub frame (they come in 2 parts each side, inner and outer half with a inner steel inner liner). Bottom line is:- Since doing it the car has always felt more planted on the road and steering more responsive. Now there are so many different versions of bushes out there its really down to personal preference. Would I fit Super Pro again?, without hesitation 100% yes. For your Info :- https://www.superproeurope.com/products.cfm?vehicleid=7720

Just a quick heads up everyone, I have put my old calipers in the classified for sale section.

View Advert MK1 OCTAVIA VRS REAR CALIPERS (NOW SOLD) For Sale: Mk1 Octavia Vrs Rear Brake Calipers. They have done 82K miles and are the original ones off my car. They are a ideal project for someone (new pistons + seals). I would also suggest new torsion springs as they are getting tired. The offside one has a slight leak from the handbrake mechanism shaft. Collection only with cash (PM or email for details) Advertiser Silver Bullet Date 29/05/21 Price £40 Category Parts for Sale Shipping Estimate £0

When I have had the timing belt replaced, I get these parts changed as well:- 1/ Aux belt 2/ Timing Belt Tensioner (06B 109 477) 3/ Timing Belt Idler Roller (06B 109 243F) 4/ Water Pump (Over time the plastic impeller can break up, always use VW part) 5/ New engine mounting bolts (single use stretch bolts)

Lol

Good grief, Mines only done 82K.

Yessss !!!, When I first got my Vrs in 2006, driving in "grandad mode (56mph for 25 miles) i saw 41mpg come up, was it accurate???. Now i average 32-35mpg. NB: Deans comment about the MAF is right, you can buy MAF spray cleaner I did mine couple of years ago ( still on the original one), always get good emission readings at MOT time. These engines love premium petrol I have always used Shell V power, it does help with fuel economy in the long run.

Hello, Firstly I am not a vibration expert, the subject itself is a bit of a “black art” My thoughts on this are :- The wheel rotates - sound occurs – something rotating or in contact with a rotating surface starts to vibrate at a fairly high frequency, then the metalwork incontact with it starts to resonate in sympathy acting like a amplifier. Not having the equipment to check where the vibration occurs my best guess is the brake pad on the disc is the source, the disk amplifies the vibration this then migrates into the moving piston then into the internal handbrake adjuster mechanism and then goes god knows where, maybe even into the rear suspension beam or the handbrake cable as well. I just don’t think that Skoda would offer a (when it was released) £100 retrofit kit if they didn’t have a degree of confidence that it would work. All I have done is mimic their design. The concept is of using material with good vibration deadening properties sandwiched between dissimilar materials to break up or interrupt vibration generation /propargation. (Think of troops marching across a bridge, they always break step to counter the generation of a harmonic vibration that, if allowed to continue and grow would eventually destroy the structure). This isnt very likely with the Vrs however lol, its just a irritation. Like you, I also fitted a return spring and for a few months all was silent then gradually it returned. Some people swear by filing chamfers on the leading / trailing edge of the brake pads. Others file a deep slot in the pad at right angles to its long edge. Hope this sheds some light on it.

UPDATE Finally got the vibration dampers made and fitted to the new calipers. Swapped out the new assemblies for the original ones and bled the brakes. I took the car out for a quick run, still using existing brake pads and discs the annoying “mooing” has vanished…. Result. All I had to do to the caliper assembly was drill and tap one M6 hole through the static metal plate. There is a clearance of about 2mm between face of neoprene and return spring body. All the metal parts used are stainless steel. I priced the 2 assemblies and it came to £17.69, not the £100 + quoted. Happy Days

"Also worth looking around the car and trying to find out what else could cause the battery draining" I bought one of these (see below) to do the electrical checking on my cars, are about £20 delivered from E-Bay.

Hi guys, Im after a pair of the anti-vibration damper parts (1J0 - 698 - 998) for the rear h/brakes, or if anyone has them fitted could you measure the dia of the wheel plus o/all thickness (I think its about dia 40mm x 16mm )??. Thanks

Have a look at this posting. looks like a bad connection somewhere :- https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/18057-powertrain-data-bus-missing-message.97250/

Funny you say that, on the tin it says "25 Groat or 6 chickens"

Well, I finally got fed up with freeing off my rear brake calipers so invested in a pair of new ones (not referbished). Got out my tin of Hammerite green smooth paint, (bought many years ago) and gave them a coat of paint, also bought and fitted some new handbrake return springs and some Vrs decals just to bling them up a bit. Just waiting now for the weather to get a bit warmer so I can fit them.

i seem to remember in the dim and distant past someone did replace their front ARB by loosening the subframe 2 front bolts then undoing and removing the 2 rear subframe bolts (supporting the frame with a trolly jack) and carefully lowered the frame the same amount as the new ARB diameter. I believe the standard one is 19mm diameter, and presume you are fitting a Golf R32 ARB (dia 23mm). f you do the above and together with fitting a 28mm Neuspeed rear ARB it should be well planted on the road. I also would suggest when doing this you also replace the 2 ARB link arms with new ones ( there will be extra strain on linking arm ball joints). Finally get a 4 wheel tracking done (to keep all 4 wheels inline unless you are very careful when bolting up the frame).

Nice and tidy car, heres mine :-

Hi, I use a standard airbox that i have de-finned internally and fitted with a standard airfilter (replaced every year). I do remember reading a few years ago that K&N filters need to be re-oiled when cleaned and that over oiling can cause oil vapour to coat the MAF sensor and screw the sensing up. See you have a 4.6 P38 RR very nice. Ive got a 4.2 Supercharged RR, used to have a classic with a 3.9 + 5 speed LT 77 Box (manual). very nice cars especially in the snow.

The engine does have a oil cooler of sorts, its a square metal box (with 2 hose connections), the engine oil filter does actually secure against its lower face. Do regular oil changes with fully synthetic engine oil. These engines are virtually indestructable if looked after. If you can manage it Shell V Power (or any premium petrol) will keep it running sweet. Good Luck and Happy Motoring

Your description of its approx location leads me to think its not a oil cooler but something called a OCC (Oil Catch can). Like many engines the engine "breathing" is a closed loop system. What that means is, it recirculates gasses via one way valves and pipes back into the combustion chamber to be burnt off. The down side of this is over time valves and the pipes become clogged, also you can get a build up of film on the turbo impeller. All not a good thing. The solution is to fit a OCC, this filters in effect the oily air, cleaning it so nice clean air gets burnt . The OCC should have a drain off and periodically drained (more often in the winter because of internal condensation forming). If you can post a picture this will confirm its function though ive never heard of a extra oil tank / cooler being fitted by a "enthusiast" If you look at my avatar picture mine is located bottom right with blue hoses connecting to it. NB: This is the one i bought :- http://www.saikoumichi.com/s3_oil_catch_can.html

It has been known for one of the bolts or both that hold one half of the d/bone assy to the subframe to part company, check for excessive rust in that area. When you pull away the engine block tries to rotate and it taps the sub frame. The d/bone bush assy is just really a glorified anti-torsion bar. As Kentphil1 says its worth checking all the bushes / fixings for excessive flexing.

Collected

Totally agree👍👍, loved the video. Not that many cars around with a full size matching alloy spare in the boot. I bought mine in 2006 and it still raises a smile every time I drive it. Regular annual oil changes (fully synthetic oil) and Shell V Power petrol keep everything running sweet.