Silver Bullet

Well finally got round to fitting the new exhaust. Before cutting through the inline exhaust clamp I supported the CAT with a axle stand to minimize moving the flexable section post turbo. I cut through the clamps with my Dremel fitted with a cutting disc. When the wrap round ajustable sleeve was slid along towards the front of car it exposed a gap between pipe ends of about 25mm. Using the exhaust pipe cutter (looks like a mole wrench with a short chain that has hardened cutting wheels mounted in the chain), I cut through the exhaust pipe close to the main box. This enabled me to remove both sections of the old system. I then used some emery paper and removed sharp edges on the ends of the new system, degreased it using brake and clutch cleaner, fitted it togerther together to check for fit, all ok. Took it apart and using Firegum to coat the ends, fitted it together using supplied chrome plated U bolts, nuts and washers. Left it overnight for the firegum to harden and this morning started car and left it running on tickover to warm up. Then took it for a slow drive, its a bit louder than than std with a slightly deeper sound. Dean before you say anything 😄 I think I prefer the subtle sound, its a old boy thing 😉

Damn !!!!, stop it Dean 😁 dont know what you mean cough cough.

Yup I replaced all of mine when I found 3 had blown, local motor factors had a load of suitable ones :- Lucas LLB 284 T5 12v / 2.3w (13 off needed)

The other day after taking some rubbish to the tip. On the return journey gave it the beans on the duel carriageway to clear out the cobwebs and noticed it sounded a bit more raspy than normal. Put it up on the ramps and had a poke around then noticed the split on the right side of the pipe exiting the centre box, (the system is original not bad for 17 years old!!!). So bit the bullet and ordered a shiny Jetex S/Steel Resonated Cat-Back System. just waiting for the weather to cool down so I can fit it. Also got a exhaust pipe cutter just incase of any problems when removing the old exhaust, plus a new tube of solvol autosol 😁

Hi Grubtraw Interesting problem, did you find the cause and what was the solution?. I replaced both my rear calipers last year and RNS was a b*** to get the air out. Cheers

Have not been on here for a while, I agree with Schtum's comments about EMF. Years ago I used to teach part time at the local college. I used to park in the tutors c/park. I discovered if I parked in a certain row close to the automatic barrier my central locking would not work and I ended up having to use the key to unlock the car. This happened a few times, parking in a different bay the recurring problem vanished. Perhaps a high voltage underground cable is close to the road and your driving through the EMF field.

Hi Nige8021, Thats reassuring I guess, tho', when I checked my order on their website in 3 different locations the total price was different. also the registered address is a supermarket !!. Thanks for the update Peter

Peter, A quick question, have you or anyone you know bought parts from the LLLParts company you mention?. The reason is I ordered a part from them on April 29th and am getting no reply when contacting them, so have cancelled the order and asked for a refund. Thanks Peter

Sorry Mike, But thanks for your interest Peter

Hi, Yes having got fed up with constant pressure loss and once even having the pipe join parting company resulting in total power loss. I went on e-bay and sourced (06A 145 731D). It is used on the early models of the following :- AGU Golf MK4 , Audi A3 and 2000 Audi 4wd TT It is identical to the existing one except instead of having that stupid join has a normal bead that a silicone hose clamps over. Sadly they are quite rare to find now, I ended up buying mine from someone in Germany. I also bought a new silicone hose to link it to the pancake pipe from Creation Motorsport (part No: AGU ARZ H188). You have to reduce the hose length slightly when fitting, it is a bit of a struggle but can be done (the car front needs to be on ramps or a lift to enable access from underneath). NB: After swapping the pipe over I did notice it did seem a bit more lively, maybe my imagination??.

Sorry Mike im in Hertforshire Peter

FREE One used Contisport Contact 5 tyre (205/50 R17 93W XL . No punctures, tyre wall never scrubbed, has about 5.2 -5.5mm tread left. Collection only from Welwyn Garden City Hertfordshire

Try this web page:- https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/2004/

When I was under the car the other day I noticed that the corrigated harness sleeve from the engine oil level / temp sensor ( 1J0 907660 C ) was breaking up and the retaining harness clip had also broken. I bought some new split sleeving from the Bay of E for about £3 (1 metre ). You need a I/D of 5mm with a O/D of 7.1mm. I also made up a small bracket and used a P clip to secure the harness in position (see pics). The length of the fitted sleeve is about 200mm. I also checked with my Multi meter that the current was getting through to the sensor. The corrigated sleeve end slids into some existing heat resistant sleeving further along then a tye-wrap to hold the two together.

"tie-wraps or zip-ties. Most people understand both names". How very informative, you know what they say about a picture ? or maybe not 😂

Yes, the one you indicated will fit, the vrs shares a lot of golf mk4 parts and add on goodies from 3rd parties. The rear one is fairly easy to fit. When I got my vrs I bought and fitted a Whiteline 22mm on my own. They are quite heavy and a awkward shape to position. I got 2 Ty-wraps and propped the ARB against the cars rear suspension beam, secured it with the ty-wraps (not sure what you call them, see pic below), far apart on the rear beam. Then using supplied brackets secured it to the suspension beam, centralised its position, pivoted it upwards secured it using supplied bolts and link arms to the car suspension. You will get a fitting sheet when you get a new one. The improvement to body roll is like night and day. I recently swapped my Whiteline one out for a Newspeed one this year.

Hello, Welcome to our very select circle😊 i have been looking at the area (front) many times so I suspect the front subframe will need to be dropped to create a gap at least the diameter of the new ARB, disconnect the ARB link arms / the steering track rod ends. Im sure someone on here who has done it will advise you soon. If its just to replace the ARB bushes all you have to do is put the front on jacks, remove the front road wheels, remove the bolts holding the bush straps and lever the bushes out, they are split so can open out over the ARB for removal. I did this and replaced mine with Super-Pro bushes. Adding a ARB to the rear is easy, just reverse onto ramps and install.

Plus a set of these:- https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products/car-brake-kit-for-skoda-octavia-1u-1-8t-110kw-150hp-08-97-12-10?variant=32329765453889

NO!! , under braking (as im sure you know already) the mass loading shifts to the front, hence all cars have bigger disks at the front. If you increased rear braking strength i think all that would happen is the rears would lock up until ABS kicked in, a waste of time.

Ever since I bought my vrs i have always filled up with Shell V Power 99 ron (E5) , in the mower and in my RR.

Hi Andy, its a 28mm one, still have the front to do, i'm looking at a 23mm R32 one for the front.

Just a couple of pics of my (finally fitted) new ARB. I have changed the fixing to the softest position (towards rear of car).

Well after pumping 5 litres of brake fluid thru' and numerious goes with VAG-COM, gave in and took it to my local garage who have always done my MOT 's. Spoke to the mechanic afterwards, he told me he disconnected pipes to the ABS and blew it through, that cleared the obstruction, bled everything, MOT'd it, good readings on braking efficiency and it passed with no advisories. Thanks everyone for all your advice

Hi Phil, Now that is something i have not considered, oh i wish it was that simple lol. The 2 rear calipers are new (handbrake mechanism was constantly holding on even with the added torsion spring). Then discovered I had reduced braking on that side. I'll check the bleed nipple tomorrow. Thanks

Hi Dean, thanks for the video, I have had a look at it and will jot down the steps. One of the benifits of using a pressure bleeder is having a tank with 2 litres of fluid so no chance of running dry. I did bleed the M/C at the start plus the clutch. One of the many posts I have read makes a very good point, "That the abs block has many internal features where air can collect, plus it hardly is ever used". I think in the 15 years I have had my vrs it has only kicked in twice ( gravel / icy road). NB; A small amount of fluid has now come out of the rear nearside so getting there, the other 3 lines drain ok. Thanks once again