alesypalsy

Thank you for the kind words! very pleasant of you , I will let you know that the design is not mine though , I came across this repair kit after purchasing a mk6 golf and 30 mins down the road finding out it had the common fault! So after being unable and unwilling to afford to be able to comprehend paying ££££'s for a repair I searched out high and low and found these kits that are actually made in Russia , and these fellows certainly know how to deal with these cars that for sure, I have done the repair on quite a few cars since! and I also have sold quite a few units to people who have been most satisfied and very very happy with the instructions I gave them to fit themselves, I can supply a link to my ebay sale if allowed? So I really am only trying to help people out here in being able to offer a cheap fix, I wish I had come across a thread like this when I had the problem , and I have since found that it is a massively common problem affecting a lot more cars then you would believe which leads me to honestly believe it will affect ever one of these gearboxes. I have had a lot of these cars now and already know to expect the fix to have either been done or will need to be done in the future. I appreciate your kind words and own opinion , its nice to have a glass half full rather then half empty!

HI, I would take a guess that it is the DQ200 , and defiantly the dry clutch Your dealer will know for sure , give them a call and tell them you need to know !

Good links Roottemoot! I have no idea what the current situation is with the VAG group, but I certainly know they will not put their hands up to failures unless they get told to by higher powers which does not seem to happen in the UK unlike other countrys. Peace

Roottootemoot , My local VW main dealer told me there was no recall or service campaign 34H5 on my model although I showed then print out of forum posts , in fact they told me they never heard of it, Completely incompetent main dealer, I had them change the DSG gear box oil after I had carried out the repair to the mechatronic unit myself , they had also told me that the gearbox oil was for the life of the car ,, This is exactly the kind of behaviour I am emphasising , Skoda have the service campaign more like recall 34H5 yet VW said they never heard of it , I am not completely sure but is this recall more do to with the clutches? The repair I do to them is the hydraulic pump as the alloy housing cracks with hot and cold pressure and needs to be attended to. It stops the pressure and in turn the function cannot physically push the gear clutches to get the car into gear.

I am saying with what I have come across that I know for certain the cars certainly have problems up to 2015 ,and may have newer then this, but they should still be covered by warranty , so I have not had anyone wanting the repair kit for the newer models. So I am not saying the boxes are faulty up to 2015, I am saying I have not come across any as yet due to the cars still being under warranty so they would have gone back to he dealer

Errrr what does one say to this lot? I am afraid you seem a little jaded to me, I am Joe public , and was fed up with sub standard palm offs from main dealers in the UK, and if you actually knew anything about these Mechatronic units then I am sure your reply would not have been worded as it is, The USA have 10 year warranty on this totally unreliable gearbox, I drive a MK7 2014 DSG golf! you know something ? it is one I have repaired! it was 4 years old when I got it and only 48,000 miles on the clock I get fed up with cars supposed to be so reliable as you say yet cost thousands of pounds if you take into a main dealer to be told warranty doesn't cover it, or they never heard of that problem before yet in other countries they have recalls on the exact problem, As far as me sounding like Arthur Daley ? wow , I am here to help any "Joe public" that searches for why his 5 year old octy dsg wont go into gear and the dealer wants £2800 for a repair off him. And yes the amount of the faulty Mechatronic units I have seen , and the amount of repairs carried out on a daily basis I feel I am in a position to comment that I feel it totally true that each and every unit will fail in time, As for why VAG fitted a sub standard part made of alloy that cracks the fails , well would they really own up to it and the spend god knows how much to have the part re made And this part directly to you mr Scot5, dont come along here and become rude , I have hands on experience in this department do you? I wont be replying to any rude abusive replys

These gearboxes are certainly faulty up to 2015! I can say that as I have just repaired a mk7 golf DSG with this gearbox, As far as main stealers go, when people tae the car back to them with faulty mechatronics unit they will not even consider to repair it, they will only say that is needs a complete new mechatronics! VW wanted to charge a guy £2800 for this and luckily he found me! I repaired his car for £500 and the part I use is a permanent repair better then it ever was ,, and the beauty is that even though the housing was cracked , this part has its own housing that fits straight inside the existing mechatronics, The newer the cars the less quality in parts I am finding these days,, nothing seems to last like it used to

Hi Guys I have a unit that you can do in matter of around 2 hours that permenatly repairs this fault that will happen in EVERY DQ200 Mechatronics gearbox!! If you have the error code P189C and or P17BF ,, as the same codes in your video ,, you will lose drive , some times the car will still drive in certain gears, there will also sometimes be a spanner flashing in the gear selected on dashboard display, well I have now fixed numerous cars, I have the repair kits available here in the UK and sell then for £230 or to members here £200 , It is possible to repair your car while the mechatronics is still attached to your car so is very easy to do, although some people are scared or dubious of this I offer to do the complete job for £500 dependant on where about in the uk you are ! I have full fitting instructions Please see my pictures,

Hi, sorry to resurrect this old post, but I would like to let you know that I have the “fix” for these mechatronic units in the dq200 boxes, most will lose the car actually going into any gear, the start of the problem usually is a spanner flashing in the dash where the gear selected number is , then you will see what seems to be an oil leak under the passenger side near wheel , so now I believe every single gear box made for vw,Skoda, Audi and seat from 2008 until at least 2015 will fail, I have now repaired 7 cars with my part , I actually started selling the repair part for around £250 as I came across it after I could not afford to have a gearbox Centre fix a dsg golf 2011 plate , they wanted £1800 , so after much research and taking a gamble I managed to fix it myself! so if anyone needs a cheap perminant repair please get in touch I can help if you managed to get the codes read , p17bf , and p189c with play protection, are the most common , according to Skoda and vw the car needs a new mechatronic unit for the sum of £2500! Odd, what a load of waffle anyway you guys with warranty’s are lucky , I don’t think I have ever owned a car with a warranty

Just to update, I finally sorted it, used original door mech turned up from eBay , fitted in about 10 mins then all back together after testing many many times! Connected exterior door handle and all good , thunbs up

Ok for anyone who ever comes across this, I found a old thread here that I used as guidance , The small hole to the left, not any of the 3 holes on the right, the smallest one near the door rubber,, needs a long torx 20 inserted into it, instructions said screw driver so I was there for about 30 mins with Philips and flat head to no avail! so it will take a while but you will find where it goes into a bolt, then turn it anti clockwise until its loss but keep feeling the handle end so when it comes out stop unscrewing as the screw can fall into door panel if you loosen it off to much that will release the door handle! I have spent 3 days changing a door lock actuator , and can tell you if I had the knowledge I have now it would of taken around half a day!, hopefully I dont have to change another in the near future, but tomorrow is judgement day as the second one comes, the first new one I ordered was no good I found after I had installed it and closed the door! wouldn't open again! good luck briskodas!

Hi guys , I currently changing my door acuator on rear passenger door , I cannot for life of me remove the outer door handle so I will be able to connect Bowden cable to lock when it arrives ,, can somone please tell me how to remove the handle? i have removed outer handle cover but lock is still like (see picture) I have a diagram somone sent me with a screw hole but no screwdriver size or type stated , I have tried everything and getting no where , I don’t want to break the thing so ask here!

Ok I managed with continual tap with hammer to the new lock to hear the mechaniasm move which released the lock! so I managed to open the door,, what a relief! So I shall now buy I used genuine part rather then new Chinese part, Does anyone know if it possible to connect that handle cable from the inside panel or does the handle need to be removed? the cable is already connected to the handle part it is the cable tot mechanism that needs to be connected and how to do that I was fiddling with it for over an hour and could not get it to connect (blind with one hand in confined space!) If I need to remove the handle can I put the interior back together to connect it? I am a lot happier

Ok can someone please explain to me how I am supposed to connect the outer handle cable to the hook (top silver) i am going to try the both cables connected to see if can get lock to pop , if not it’s going to have to be another demolition of lock which will be bad news as I have terrible headache an stress from this now

unreal isn't it, the lock worked until I locked the door! it even reads as unlocked on the vcds , seems to be the catch on the door since I locked/unlocked, completely pulling hair out now, in regards to the part of lock that the outside handle operates I was pushing it to the open position with a screw driver while my wife pulled the handle to give it clearance while at same time pulling the inner cable for inside lock! at one point I was trying to do this alone and at same time using my chin to press the remote button !lol kind of disheartened with it now and not sure what way to turn ,, it would be very very difficult to butcher the new actuator as it pretty strong appreciate the reply here, kind of keeps me sane thanks

I kind of did but obviously not enough, I used to cable to open close the door,, I tested the new actuator by plugging it in , but I did not lock it and open after until door already closed! nightmare

Thought this myself, but it was opening from closed until I locked it, I tried other door with child lock on and it wont open even if unlocked so no idea ,, the problem must be in new part

Ok I am totally confused guys and girls , i thought I would put the interior panel back on and worry about exterior handle connection over weekend , so I got as far as connecting interior stuff back up and thought would test before I put panel back on so I locked car doors can hear everything working with new acuator, but the door will not open again!!! It was opening with the interiors cable until I locked it! I unlock it and the acuator unlocks as I can hear it , but the door will now not unlock again!!! Omg I’m pulling my hair out here what on earth is it? Do I need to try from outside by connecting the cable to the lock ? Other side is fine I am baffeled again and fed up big time

Another quick question ! Can i I put the inner door back together or do I need access to connect the outer handle when I can figure out how to get it off

Thanks for the diagram nige, any idea what screw driver that is that I am supposed to put in that hole? The trouble I am having is the cable is connected to outer door handle and I cannot connect it to the switch , I believe is should go over the hook , no idea how it came off and I can’t seem to get this outside handle off as I don’t know how and the diagram doesn’t tell me why screw driver I need , the hole is to small to see what is at the end and after trying a few I am bit lost

Horrraaaayyyy,,,, thanks to you guys advice here, I managed to turn the cog with my finger and it unlocked the door, finally well now I have a loose cable from door handle, how can I reconnect that? Does the door handle outside need to come off? I not sure where it connects to on the new unit? Also so I have plugged the new unit into the wires and there doesn’t seem to be any life in it! I’m going to check the door that have now opened where it connects to the chassis , but it deffo has life before as the lock in this door used to click

Hey @Mac11irl any idea if this module would be the same on the mk2 ? it certainly is not on the new replacement that has arrived,, as I may be able to get that one crew off from inside there , its at 3 min 40 seconds where he shows a good way to release it!

any idea how they managed to open the door ? I am having this exact problem right now and cannot unlock the door, I have the panel off and am right into the door , been at it all day with no luck

thanks Mac,,, I dont think this will be physically possible for me with one hand, even if I had bigger accesss,, where the darn thing is would only allow one hand to the actuator so I'm pretty stumped !

Appreciate your reply’s fella , could you direct me to what I need to try to make move to unlock it ? I guess it’s not the end where the plug goes onto it , I kind of have enough access to get my hand in there but just don’t have a clue what I am supposed to be trying to do to the actuator to make it unlock , i can see the motor under the plastic I broke off but not much else , i am at end of me tether with the thing , wish I knew how to unlock it