Mintyfresh

We've had this problem intermittently with our 2014 Rapid Spaceback. It appears to be an issue whereby the fuel flap actuator/release motor mechanism sticks and doesn't release the flap when you push it in. In our case, a quick smack of the flap with the side of the hand, followed by locking and unlocking the car doors 3-4 times (either by the central locking button in the car or the key fob) pings it open as normal. This 'solution' was found out of frustration 😅 An IPA clean followed by a small spray of Silicone spray may help it. Alternatively, a new mechanism is around £20.00 from eBay - its the same part as a VW Golf mk7, if that assists you in finding it. Good luck on your next refueling trip (hopefully the fuel prices will have come down somewhat!).

MickA is correct; its the same as the Toledo, in that if you turn and look down to your right while sitting in the drivers seat, you'll see a button with a car symbol and 'OFF' to the right of the door on the plastic trim. Once your engine is off, hit that button (it'll light up amber), jump out and lock car. Interior sensors have been deactivated.

Further to the above; here is a link to the workshop manual for removal of the pressure pipe, for anyone wishing a 'proper' holding hand for safe removal. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/power_unit/12/63;_77_kw_tsi_engine/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/intake_manifold_and_fuel_distributor/removing_and_installing_the_throttle_valve_control_unitj338/

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

Just to chime in with this and add my experience; squeaking coming from front nearside and offside, especially over speed bumps. I traced the noise to the Anti Roll Bar bushes. Sprayed some lubricant over them and the noise was gone - that has been well over a year ago now and it hasn't returned. If the bushes were worn, I would have replaced them, though they were fine and the above solved the issue. Hope it helps.

I'm assuming you got this sorted by now, though I just thought I'd share my way of 'encouraging' the flap to open; At filling station, get out, lock doors, a couple of knocks on the filler flap with hand, then cycle the lock/unlock a couple of times and it always pops open. I really should just get it fixed - from what I read on the linked thread it appears to be a new solenoid required - but the above works every time, so it's treated as more of a quirk of the car now! Oh, and the above was found out due to frustration one day - brute force and hitting stuff sometimes proves useful. In any case, I hope this helps someone.

Good morning all. When you are driving and you apply the brakes (service brakes/foot brake) the system uses the front and rear discs to slow the car. The friction between the pads and discs causes the metal discs to expand during use, which is normal. When you stop and apply the handbrake it is set on the rear disc brakes via the handbrake lever. When you set the hand brake, the rear pads clamp together on the disc and hold the vehicle stationary - it will be set while the discs are warm and expanded. As the car sits stationary, the brake discs cool and therefore contract to their normal size (thickness) and the 'clamp' holding the car stationary can loosen off. This is how the car can move off even though the driver set the parking brake. I learned this with my mk1 Furby vRS when - after a brisk drive - I parked it up outside my then girlfriend's parents house (which is on a hill). I went out later to find the car half way down the hill, in a neighbours front garden! The house owner had called the police as well as she didn't recognise the car from the street. Since then, I've parked all cars in gear and on a particularly steep hill, I turn the wheels in towards the kerb as others (and the highway code) suggest. All the best.

Another one to check: bottom of A pillar meeting at far left of dash. Had a rattle which turned out was the two rubbing together. Also check the bonnet release handle which is made of hard, cheap style plastic which is a rattle potential if a bit loose. Good luck!

26. Mintyfresh - vRS 230 hatchback, Corrida red, Manual, Renfrewshire, Scotland.

It does seem premiums has gone up this year for all, I thought it was just me. I was cheaper to renew with AXA for another year on my vRS TSI after going through all the price comparison websites - that's the first time that's happened! Had to change the policy details for getting my 230 just yesterday and was able to do it all online, without any BS 'admin' fees that are usually associated with changing policy details. Premium only went up by £6.32 to, so thumbs-up for them. +1 for Top Cashback or Quidco btw.

Well that's the price released- £18250. Not bad. Works out a better deal for us, with the extra kit priced on a SE Spaceback that we were going to order - getting metallic paint, dab radio & sat nav and black wheels for only a few hundred more! Included in the 3 big reasons deal too, so 0% finance, and servicing. Worked out OK waiting. Oh yeah, getting it in Moon White metallic which should look smart with the black pano roof.

Adds in Sat Nav+DAB radio, black 17 inch alloys as the only real upgrades over the sports pack (which already comes with tinted windows, sport seats, etc). I'm waiting for SUK to get back to me with a price for the Spaceback Black edition. I almost ordered a red Spaceback with the sport pack this week but found out about the black edition and didn't want to loose out if it's the same price but with added extras as above. Problem is, SUK don't seem to know the price of their own cars! No price on the dealer's system or the net (all the other models in black edition do for some reason, as can be seen on the Skoda Web site). Starting to get frustrated with the wait now - imagine not having a price for a car that's available to the buying public. Duh.

About three weeks! Let me elaborate; it was included in the Q3 campaign by Skoda UK (0% VAT) as a stock vehicle even though it had just left the factory - was being shipped to the UK when I ordered. Only problem with this was I couldn't spec any factory fit extras with it - though being an Elegance it had everything I wanted anyway apart from the spare wheel which I got from the dealer. So, overall I'm very fortunate considering the waiting lists going on, especially as its a 170 TDI DSG - right place at the right time and all that!

208 - A Superb Elegance hatch 170TDI DSG in black magic, not many optional extras (jings it comes with enough already for me!) though do have the essential spare wheel. Similar position to Farmerp2005 in that I traded in my Octy LE TSI - sadly missed but the Superb is a different league with regards to comfort and build quality and just being sooo smooth.

Yep, noticed this also. Has been there since I got the car - like a rasping noise at the rev range stated. Took car to dealers regarding it and they confirmed there is no physical problem though were going to make SkodaUK aware of the 'unique' noise. May also add that there is no drop in performance and isn't always noticeable, though when it is heard it is a bit annoying. Did the same research as OP which seemed to confirm its a noise all 2.0TSI engines are blessed with which reassured me a little. I don't expect a fix any time soon as it seems there is no actual damage or fault as such. :|

I think it always helps to know a name when contacting these places. I personally had no troubles when purchasing my new vRS from Henrys in Kyle Street, Glasgow. I dealt with Graeme Whitelaw, from sales, who was always willing to help and explained the finance to me so I was in no doubt as to my options. Kier Dunlop is the sales manager of the dealership. I'm sure if you need anything further he'll help -both guys stayed back after shutting time for 2 hours one evening answering all my questions and organising the car I wanted. I'd be happy to purchase my next Skoda from them and I think that always says a lot about a company if you would return custom. However, do swot up on the best prices for the car before starting so you know what to rattle out of them and be prepared to wait a while for a new vRS as the waiting list is rather extended just now..... hope it helps:)

Was 23 when I got the Fabia vRS. Now 27 with the Octavia vRS. Figured it was a good idea to have a larger car for future sprogs - while still being able to have some fun 'Practical and exciting' was the sales line wasn't it!

Thieving f'ing buggers! Same thing happened to my car just last night, noticed it this morning. Thinking it must have been nicked at the work car park. Why? Why? Why to scummy buggers find it necessary to bring everyone down to their level? All I want is a nice car to be proud of, but no the scum can't even let you have that. I'm with Amity on this one-I want my car to look good. It came with the nice dustcaps and looks good with them on. Why should I have to comprimise because of thieving scum. God help them if I spot their car wearing my caps in the car park in the future. Grr Does anyone know if Skoda do any tamper proof caps? I will be replacing them at some point. Wonder if its possible to run an electric current through the metal caps to give the scum a shock next time? :eek: In fact, that could be a topic in itself - What inventive security measures would you put on your Skoda to keep the scummy hoards off it? Thank you and *RANT OVER*

Another LE owner with the same problem - I'm awaiting the garage to get a replacement for my badge which was 'stripped' before I had even picked it up! Its been the only thing on the car which I think has been poor. Get to your garage and get a new badge if this has happened though- don't pay for faulty goods (even if it is a silly wee badge:)).

Nice write up:) I too have enjoyed the first few miles in the LE and agree with all you have said. The interior is stunning and everyone who has seen it agrees-it's the stand out of the car. The paint is something that I think gives the car a more upmarket feel and matches the alloys well. It's one of those nice colours that changes in different light-I gave mine a wash and wax the other day and it looks stunning in the sun we have been having. I too though have had to get the LE badge on the boot replaced as the lettering had rubbed off on delivery. The garage is in the precess of getting me a new one just now. Thumbs up from me - great car. Enjoy yours:thumbup:

For the info of folk still waiting patiently for their LEs, mine took almost 6 weeks to arrive after ordering. I was grumbling too because I was told it would be with me in three weeks max on ordering it. Don't think anyone knows when the cars are due though-dealer called me on the Monday saying it'll be at least another week then calls back on Wednesday saying its now in the garage?! It is well worth the wait though, the car is fantastic and I'm really pleased with mine. Hold on in there....

When I was in the market for a TFSI vRS Octy at the start of March my dealer told me there were no more new in the UK and I'd have to wait till mid April for a new one. Luckly there were some limited editions left and I managed to get my mitts on a TSi, which is great From what others are saying and my experience, it seems that Skoda are running down production of the old vRS before the new facelift starts in a month or so time. Though I'd still go for a second opinion and see another dealer, just to make sure if you have your heart set on one - its only a quick check on the computer for them after all. Good luck!

:drool: Love that interior! Thanks for the pics, makes the wait even harder tho! Hope you get many happy miles driving out of it, well done.

Octavia-vRS.com - Ipod Adaptor Above link from octavia-vrs.com has an article on how to fit the VW ipod connector to your head unit (and costing). Also search the Briskoda forums for dension ice link -this is another connector for the ipod which has good write ups. Not sure if they are the easiest way to do it but proably the best. Good luck.

Totally agree with above. Certain persons have been slagging off/offering their opinions on the LE for months now and so much of it has been negative. I see no photos of members LE Octys on the site so far - is this because owners are worried about putting up their pride and joy to be ripped apart by a certain few? I have to say, I'd be apprehensive. Briskoda, since I've been a member, has been a community of like minded persons discussing their cars and helping each other out - not dissing each other and their cars. Peace and love, n all that.