chrisund123

1. No, driveshafts are not a service item. 2. I don't see the forum filling up with driveshaft issues. 3. As above 4. I think you've just been unlucky. The driveshaft actually consists of a few different parts. Usually a shaft of solid metal (that doesn't usually break, as it's pretty thick), and a couple of CV joints to transmit the drive from the gearbox, to the shaft, and then onto the front wheel. CV joints have a several moving parts and are susceptible to wear, especially if the rubber boot splits and lets out the grease, and water/dirt gets in. This part is much more likely to fail, and is quite a common MOT failure across all makes and models. Certainly not specific to VAG! Did the shaft actually shear? This is quite rare, I've seen them go when rusted though - sometimes water/salt collects around a rubber damper and corrodes the shaft until it's weak enough to snap. Another point of failure would be the CV joint seperating, although I'd expect you'd hear a lot of noise before that let go. Ultimately, I don't think you have anything to be concerned about.

I had this problem with the windows opening when I sat on the fob. I now take the keys out of my pocket when I sit down.

I've not taken one all the way off on an Octavia yet, but I've pulled plenty off the car quite a way for trim removal etc and not encountered any clips or fastenings yet.

I've used Torque for live data and I think it will read fault codes too.

I've got a 59 plate L&K, it has a rain sensor. It closes the windows when it rains (think there's a setting for it in maxidot), and opens/closes the windows via the fob. It doesn't close the windows after 12 hours though, despite saying it should in the manual. I actually posted a thread about that when I got the car, and the general consensus was that the manual was a book of lies and nobody had the windows closing after 12 hours

A lot of cars have a big "dead zone" for the temperature needle, on my old Rover 45 it was between 75 and 104!

Yeah Mr Muscle/oven cleaner is a thing. The VNT vanes on the turbo get clogged up with carbon/oily deposits and makes a nice thick gunk that seizes them up after a while, resulting in boost issues. Common sign is the car goes into limp mode due to overboost protection, and trouble code P0234 (i think?) can be read from VCDS. You feed the oven cleaner into the VNT part of the turbo via a thin tube into the EGR pipe/manifold, and after a while you can work the VNT actuator lever free and restore the full range of movement. Then take it for a spirited drive and enjoy the feeling of a properly working turbo, until it seizes up again! With my fairly low mileage, it seems to last about 14 months between treatments.

Didn't look very far I did mine today, although I have a BKD so it's a bit different. Lasts about 14 months with my driving (not many miles).

As J.R. says I think they're all much of a muchness due to the fairly low Res TV signal they use. That said I did buy one that professed to use a better quality sensor than the really cheap ones, but I doubt it makes much, if any, difference. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MYR8KBJ?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary I'm happy with the one I got, but definitely don't pay any more than that!

Almost half the price (£20.69 delivered) at Aliexpress if you don't mind waiting for the delivery: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001094393209.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.533c4299fTa22g&algo_pvid=67ead851-b26f-4edd-97bd-87b0f9fbb44f&algo_expid=67ead851-b26f-4edd-97bd-87b0f9fbb44f-0&btsid=0bb0624115992215727985247e3fc0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

The replacement unit ones are the way to go, and coding them properly allows them to be run without load resistors which is infinitely preferable.

VCDS is the most widely used, you'll get a lot more support for it if you get stuck.

Yes - that's exactly what mine looks like, on my 2010 L&K set to Australia mode

If you want it to look good - take it to a body shop. If you want to do it yourself, and not look crap - practice! Try painting a few things that aren't your car first. Watch a few YouTube videos to brush up on techniques. Generally speaking you'll want to sand back any rust to bright metal, apply some rust treater if required, filler, feather in the repair and key up the surrounding paint up to a suitable point, mask off, prime, flat back the primer, paint, lacquer, wait for it to harden, flat back then polish. Even if you do it all right, it's difficult to get a good finish! Try a few different places for the paint, maybe take a bit of trim in the correct colour and get it matched.

For the 6 speed it should be done every 4 years iirc. The dealer fixed price is £200 I think, or if you're not afraid to get stuck in its not too difficult to DIY it, I think I spent about £90 on the genuine oil and filter. When I got mine there was no mention of the DSG being serviced (or the cambelt, more alarmingly) so I made sure I did it at the first opportunity.

To get the display into MPH, you need to change into Australia mode with VCDS iirc: Dunno about the Bluetooth, but the technology has moved on quite a bit since 2012 so you may not end up with the experience you're after if you retrofit the Skoda kit. Is there a box under the driver's seat? I think that's where the Bluetooth controller lives. Is it the DSG7? They're supposed to be filled for life, but there was a recall as some came filled with the wrong oil.