chrisund123

I had a whiny turbo on my BKD when I got it, and often ended up with overboost limp mode. I did the Mr muscle treatment on it a few times and it seemed to help, kept things working for about 12 months at a time I suppose. In the end it didn't seem to be helping any more and I decided enough was enough and that I'd give it a DIY refurb. Turns out the tips of the turbine blades had all sheared off and chewed up the VNT vanes, which was probably why it was sticking... All better now

Winning! Glad to be of service

2010 FL L&K with MFSW: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY9.lbl Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 CD HW: 1K0 953 549 CD Component: J0527 056 0111 Coding: 0001532 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 76E43D9A015C7DF1C3-8022 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 3T0 959 537 Labels: 3C8-959-537.CLB Component: E221__MFL-URO H07 0012 Coding: 00000128 Shop #: WSC 00000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb Part No: 1K0 909 144 J Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 69 3001 Revision: 00H17000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 316ECE86A8B21AC956-8064 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hope that's useful!

I paid £150, the place I took it to was called Cartronix. They actually repaired my unit rather than giving me a replacement. Here's another thread on the subject with some more details:

I think it was a faulty LED somewhere, I'm a keen DIYer usually and did go over it with a multimeter and couldn't find the issue.

Mine did this, I ended up taking it to a dash repair place (luckily had one local to me) and they fixed it.

So I decided to do a DIY rebuild my turbo. And now I have issues. Stupid of me to expect anything else, I know, but I'm a competent DIY'er and have a a good range of tools... Anyways, the issue is that from idle, it has no boost. If you pootle along off boost it drives fine and the DSG shifts up the gears, but if you want to make some quicker progress, then the revs just climb, no power, smoke/unburned fuel out the back. But, if you let off the pedal slightly then push it again, it boosts like an absolute champ and then drives totally normally. Any idea what could be causing such odd behaviour? It's had new VNT mechanism, which was free to move when I reassembled the turbo. The core is a Melett unit, which seems to be well thought of.

I swapped mine out on my hatchback a few months back, there trim comes off fairly easily - googling it brought up plenty of info. Maybe get a few trim clips before you start though, they do bend out of shape and break quite easily. Most difficult bit seemed to be getting the wiper arm off, eventually I used a small 3 leg puller with the nut upside down a few threads on. Also the motor doesn't operate with the boot open, that caused a small amount of confusion when I was testing before reassembly!

Not sure if it helps, but I've got puddle lights on my 2010 L&K and have this: Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MAX3.clb Part No SW: 1T0 959 701 AA HW: 1T0 959 701 AA Component: Tuer-SG 009 2114 Coding: 0005118 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 76E43D9A015C7DF1C3-8022 No fault code found.

Car has had a whiny turbo since I got it 7 years ago, and the usual sticky VNT vanes issues. Whining has gotten worse lately and the sticky vanes no longer seemed to respond to the oven cleaner trick, so I decided now's the time for a nice new CHRA core and a manual clean of the vanes. A break in the weather has arrived, so after a morning of swearing under the car I got the manifold out and separated the turbo housing to be greeted with this: Chewed exhaust turbine. Mangled VNT vanes. Pitted housing. I was only expecting to replace the core 😂 I gave the catalytic converter a shake and no debris fell out, so I've no idea where the FOD has got to!

I dropped one into my late 2009 Octavia L&K, I don't use it much these days and never had any issues with battery running low.

Sounds like the garage saw her coming... Yes, I know a skilled mechanic charges for the years of training and experience they've built up, the garage has overheads/rent/electricity/wages etc to pay, markup on the parts etc... But £50 for a single bulb change is just plain wrong if it wasn't quoted for and agreed beforehand.

I had a similar issue recently, ended up taking my cluster for a repair which fixed the problem.

As an update for my contribution, I ended up taking my cluster to a repair specialist who happened to be reasonably close by. Paid £150, I asked the lady on reception what the fault was and she said they'd replaced a warning light LED. No idea if that's 100% all they did as I did check out all the LEDs with a multimeter and a 1.5v battery and it all *seemed* to check out OK, but then again they're the specialists so perhaps they have better diagnostic equipment than me. Anyway, to my amazement they turned it around the same day, I've just put it back in the car and would you believe it the faults are gone. https://cartronix.co.uk/ is the place I used, not affiliated in any way but they fixed my particular problem in quick time and they do a mail in service as well (but costs more).

Ha, I've had the dreaded dash squeak/rattle from the nearside, which thankfully I managed to sort, and a squeak coming from the boot which I'm yet to tackle... For the dash, I found buying a box of fibre washers from Screwfix and putting them between all the dash panels and screws finally stopped the issue.

I've got the same problem, although with more lights glowing dimly depending on the circumstances - the left indicator and cruise control like to glow a bit, but only when the headlights are on... The left indicator will glow on it's own if the clutch/brake pedal light is on too! As PikPilot mentions the problem first occurred in a period of torrential rain when I wasn't using the car much, but dry weather and increased use fo the car hasn't fixed things for me. I took the cluster out and inspected the PCB and connectors, absolutely no signs of moisture damage or anything suspicious. A few people said the fault is with the cluster and swapping it out for a new/recon unit fixed the issue, but as it makes up a part of the security system it seems it's not a DIY job and I'm nervous about shelling out the £175 odd quid I've been quoted when I've not exhausted my options or 100% confirmed the fault...

Probably did it some good to give it a good thrashing... Often referred to as an "Itallian tune up"

Yeah they can be replaced with a suitable LED alternative, you'll need resistors to get around the CANBUS error or better still code them out.

I used to leave my keys in my back pocket, but then found it was winding down my windows when I sat down. I now take my keys out of my pocket, and the windows remain up...

I used a Borg & beck kit on my old car (rover 45 TDI), was decent quality and had no problems with it.

Yeah same here, I totally used the credit card trick too - worked like a charm.

I've noticed on long runs the oil temperature seems to be staying a bit low - on the motorway it stays at about 75C. Once I'm off the Motorway it gets up a bit more, 85 around town. This strikes me as a bit low, I'm expecting low to mid 90s? Heater seems to get warm in a reasonable time, and the coolant temp guage sits happily in the middle, but I don't take much stock from that as they usually have a pretty big dead zone! It's a BKD engine, 2010.

1. No, driveshafts are not a service item. 2. I don't see the forum filling up with driveshaft issues. 3. As above 4. I think you've just been unlucky. The driveshaft actually consists of a few different parts. Usually a shaft of solid metal (that doesn't usually break, as it's pretty thick), and a couple of CV joints to transmit the drive from the gearbox, to the shaft, and then onto the front wheel. CV joints have a several moving parts and are susceptible to wear, especially if the rubber boot splits and lets out the grease, and water/dirt gets in. This part is much more likely to fail, and is quite a common MOT failure across all makes and models. Certainly not specific to VAG! Did the shaft actually shear? This is quite rare, I've seen them go when rusted though - sometimes water/salt collects around a rubber damper and corrodes the shaft until it's weak enough to snap. Another point of failure would be the CV joint seperating, although I'd expect you'd hear a lot of noise before that let go. Ultimately, I don't think you have anything to be concerned about.

I had this problem with the windows opening when I sat on the fob. I now take the keys out of my pocket when I sit down.

I've not taken one all the way off on an Octavia yet, but I've pulled plenty off the car quite a way for trim removal etc and not encountered any clips or fastenings yet.