juanse_2691

Thanks everyone, I'll get the car checked and fixed as soon as possible.

Yes, I've checked it and it's quite tight. You're correct, rubber seal is next, plus a general inspection on the pump. Otherwise I'll have to drop the tank and filler neck I guess.

Not that I could feel. That's just a bit of paint flake.

Good day everyone, As per the title, today I noticed my BBZ 2007 Fabia sort of puffs blue smoke during road trips, when hot and after a few hours of continuous use, only after coasting. It only happens after long sections of downhill coasting with zero throttle input, but as soon as the throttle is applied after the fact, *puff*, blue smoke. The appearance of smoke is sporadic, the car doesn't smoke at idle, nor under load most of the time, only after engine braking has been used for long periods. Oil was changed two weeks ago, and even if oil consumption has been noticeable since I got the car (5 years ago) the smoke issue is new. Oil is Shell Helix Ultra if that matters, compliant with VW 502.00 specification. I change oils every 7500 km. The car has 141.000ish km now. I wonder if it's just a case of replacing valve stem seals (about time anyway) or it could be something more serious. About the fuel leak issue, it just popped up in the past two days. After a trip with my family to the countryside, we noticed a strong fuel smell in the cabin. I went to check the pump under the back, lo and behold, there's fuel pooled inside the top of the fuel pump and to the sides. Testing the pump in-situ didn't yield any obvious results, there aren't any apparent faults while pumping, so it looks like the fuel leaks while the car is moving, as it sloshes around or something. Is it common with these fuel delivery units to leak at the top? Fuel lines seem intact and everything is tight. The whole pump assembly was replaced two years ago for a genuine unit. As always, I appreciate your input on these issues. TIA.

All this talk about two fans just got me thinking, I have air-conditioning, I've never experienced overheating in my 2007 Fabia, and it's routinely between 35°C and 40°C where I live. My car only has one fan. It mostly runs at high speed after the A/C is turned on. I can count on one hand the times I've seen it running at low speeds. Fan kicks in high speed when coolant temperature reaches 100°C according to VAGCOM, but I've never seen the gauge move ever so slightly over 90, not even a fraction of a millimetre. And A/C works flawlessly!

Assuming the valve is open, blocking off and disconnecting should make a difference if my theory is correct. At least it should run without stalling, but I would advise changing coils and spark plugs first just to rule them out. In all honesty scanning and adapting the valve is way easier than blocking it off. Should check for vacuum leaks in the EGR line while you're there.

The car doesn't know the valve has been changed right away, when you disconnect the battery and change things the car runs in a "default" setup, and as it runs it "learns" what its actual running values should be, and starts taking the various actuators and sensors into account. If the valve hasn't been adapted the ECU doesn't know the real minimum and maximum values of operation of the new valve, eg. whether it's open, closed or in between. Same applies to the throttle body. I bet the EGR valve is open, inducing a vacuum leak at idle. As soon as you scan through VCDS the need for adaptation will become apparent, as the program will tell you. Good call on the spark plugs and coils though. These engines like to eat them more than petrol.

When you changed the EGR valve, did you get it adapted via VCDS? New valves need to be coded or adapted. You mention no codes whatsoever but a proper scan with the proprietary software would be nice, plus you can get readings from every sensor in real time which helps to narrow down the issue.

My car comes with the aforementioned rough road suspension, it has served me well over potholes and nasty roads in the countryside. I would advise to go back to stock configuration first if you suspect the car has been lowered, they do it for the looks rather than function anyway. You could get bits from the 1.9 TDI which are going to give more clearance than the VRS ones while still being rated for the same weight, preferably from a 1.9 with the rough road package.

Apparently cylinder 4 is notorious for oil leakage in these engines. At least that's the case in my BBZ as well. I plan on changing valve stem seals at 150000 km (car at 139k currently) That shouldn't make a difference in the tapping though. Just use good oil and give it hell. Nothing to worry about.

Ditto.

Are you entirely certain that there are absolutely no faulty coils and/or plugs at this point? What happens if you run without cabin fuse #9 (lambda probe)? You need to read the codes either way, hopefully with VCDS or something similar.

Makes sense. Otherwise a failed or sticky brake light switch would discharge the battery, just like happened to me in my Mk4 Golf. I always check brake lights after turning the car off ever since.

Be sure to get an original MAP sensor. My experience is that pattern ones don't seem to last long. If I were you, I'd be looking for Polos and Fabias at the breakers nearby to get the sensor out of one.

From the video sorta looks like when my car had a faulty coil and MAP sensor a year ago.

Drive it like you stole it. I have a feeling the good old Italian tune-up would do some favours.

Interesting thread. I tried disconnecting my BBZ EGR for a while to see what would happen in 1000 miles. In my case I didn't notice any gains in fuel economy (which is STILL abysmal, my first post in the forum was about it, 140 km city driving on a full tank until reserve lights up) and noticed an increase in harshness between gear changes, as revs seem to fall much quicker. I felt the car becoming sluggish and requiring more throttle lately, so I decided to plug it in again. Everything is back to normal.

Sounds similar to the symptoms my car experienced not too long ago. First it started as a P1553/17961 with some judder. Changed both timing belts (unrelated to the problem) and nothing changed. Changed MAP sensor and again, nothing. Kept driving like that and it "evolved" to a faulty #4 coil. Changed the coil, and that was it. Runs like new.

haha don't worry then. It's gonna be a while 'til I decide on taking things apart. I'll have a look to see what I can get.

That'd be lovely, thank you.

Will have to spend some time on that, yes. Locksmiths around here only deal with the mechanical side of things and don't seem to like the electronic stuff involved. I haven't been too keen on fixing it for fear of making things worse.

I'm having the symptoms you describe. Passenger door re-locks on its own after a few seconds while still open, and driver's door locks as soon as the door is closed, even while the car is running. Sometimes it locks and immediately unlocks while moving. Anti hijack works erratically. Opening the boot involves a bit of a dance too. I can't get the door panel off just yet because even suitable rivets are hard to come by where I live.

Nightbreaker Lasers are the most recent ones IIRC. Cool blues are mostly for looks.

...mine included. I polished them last year but they get cloudy in no time. I wish there were real glass replacement lenses like there are for the Mk4 Golf.

To answer your questions: -Bulbs vary in output, reach, brightness and hue. There are options based on use or need; all season lights that are a bit more yellowish than standard which apparently cut through fog quite effectively, your bog standard bulbs that have a good balance between cost, lifespan and brightness, and then the high performance options like the OSRAM Nightbreaker bulbs which have more brightness, reach and are not as yellow as standards, while still using the same 55w output. We're always talking about halogen bulbs here. What's best? That's up to your needs and preferences. You can't go wrong with OSRAM or Phillips if that's what you're wondering. There are other reputable brands out there like Hella and Bosch. And yes, please look after your headlight housings, no bulb will compensate for housing deficiencies. -For the interior there are OSRAM LED replacements that work as well. A bit expensive but worth every penny. Your owner's manual lists every type of bulb for each application. -Have a good look at your brakes and determine their size. If there's an "FS III" script in the caliper you've got 256 mm discs. You can't go wrong with PAGID discs and pads. ATE is a good brand also, and Brembo makes them as well.