TonisT

Doors are designed so that huge amount of water can pass through them. Window seals are not watertight when the window is up. So all water that is on the window will basically drain through the door. What you need to ensure is that the drain holes under the door are not blocked. Water passing through the door is also the reason why it is not recommended to use sound insulating foam inside the doors.

And then there are guys like this: http://mqb.pl/en/tutorial-retrofiting-lane-assist-sign-assist-light-assist-5q0980653/

Fog lamps are halogen down below. There are small w5w bulbs behind the reflective pieces (located to the center side of the car) working as parking lights. The reflecting pieces are just shiny plastic pieces and are no lamps at all. They just cover up the parking light bulbs. I know because I changed them on my lamps 2 weeks ago. Projectors are dual xenons (D3S bulbs) meaning that there is just one bulb in the projector and high beam and normal beam are adjusted with moving shutter inside the projector. On the bottom there is a led daylight stripe. You should see the reflectors move up, down and left right when car is started as they self test each time car is started. here is a picture of all octavia 3 headlamp variations

My car have the same headlamps. They are bi-xenons and do the side to side dance on my car

Doors are not designed to be water tight. There are drainage holes that are under the door. If these get blocked you will get water in side doors. On previous generation door seals physically bloked the drainage holes.

No, I did not fit them. I understood they were for hatch only and would not fit the estate. Was I wrong?

I did not find Teroson anywhere in here, Estonia, either. However I just wrote company that sells and imports Loctite stuff and asked for quotation. Not listed on their site but they did order it for me. I believe that problem is that on the edge of the roof there is a hollow section from front to back. You can sound deaden all you want but through this hollow section sound will travel unobstructed and there are basically openings next to you ear on top of the B pillar. Main thing that foam does in this case is just fill the void so that sound could not travel through it. You can take a tube and sound deaden the hell out of it's walls but if you put one end to your ear and some one screams through the tube on other end, the deadening will do nothing. I just plugged the tube with foam so to speak. At least this is my understanding. You could try vibration deadening mat over the holes. Maybe it will also work however when I did sound deadening mats and other stuff I did not cover the holes on top of B pillar with the mat so I have no idea how well it would work. As I did put some foam on the bottom of A pillar I believe (at least I want it to be true ) that I obstructed straight path from engine bay to the hollow section bit better. There are many holes in this section for trim clips etc but I think now the engine compartment noise is bit better obstructed than it would be with just plugging the holes on top of the B pillar. Unfortunately My ears are pretty bad when it comes to noise tolerating. I guess I have destroyed my hearing motorcycle riding without earplugs and lumber works without earplugs. So my ears will probably start hurting bit earlier and on lower noise levels than for some people. I have sound deadened last couple cars I have owned and usually stop when I find it tolerable because I'm lazy . Octavia is the first car that i have ever have to do full deadening and I mean everything. However, it was still uncomfortable for me. Dealing with this hollow section have improved things enough that I think that I will leave it as is and call it good enough. Disclaimer: This worked for me. Every person perceives sound and noise differently and this might not be the wonder medicine that you have been hoping for. However for me it lowered the irritating noise that gave me headache enough that I feel much more comfortable in the car.

https://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/unversioned/img/glossary/pillars.jpg I used special automotive foam - Loctite TEROSON PU 9500 FOAM I removed inside panels from A and B pillars and squirted some foam inside through the holes there. So from inside. There are no holes in outside. Places where I squirted were on top and on bottom of B pillar (There are 2 square holes on top and through those. Aiming the nozzle to the front from the forward hole and to the back from the rear hole). However you need to be careful because foam will expand and some will come out of those holes. Side airbag goes right next to those holes so you need to cover the airbag and clean the area carefully afterwards. A pillar has a small opening low close to dashboard. I put some foam through that hole also. Afterwards cleaned and re-mounted everything. I believe that the 2 square holes are the main place that will direct sound right to your ears. I'm still considering doing the same to the C and D pillars (I have an estate) but to be honest it is now so quiet that I will probably not bother. Since now I have full sound deadening plus interrupted sound channel on the roof edge, I have to say that the car is now nice place to be in. Oh, Just in case some one is interested, at least in my car the rear door made pretty nice vibrating sound- It has 2 hinges on top, one lock on the bottom and 2 bumpers on the side. I did put some rubber pieces on the 2 bottom corners on the same line as the lock is. It removed some annoying vibrations pretty well.

No, I did not take any pictures.

The biggest help in my case was to block the sound movement on the roof edge channel with Loctite automotive foam. There are small holes on the roof where roof beam connects to B pillar. Unfortunately the car is built so that the roof edge beam coming from A pillar is hollow and directs all the sound you try to suppress directly without obstruction to the B pillar and straight to your ear. I had done full sound deadening to the car (interior out, floor and roof etc) and it still hurt my hears. When I blocked the sound movement from the A pillar to the B pillar and to my ears I got the relief that I was looking for for so long. I would still like to lessen the front tire noise on extremely rough surface but other than that I'm happy enough not to try anything else. I put some foam on top of the B pillar holes, to the bottom of B pillar and to the bottom of A pillar Hint what to try was in superb forum.

canton

Does anybody know how to get the coil spring part number for this kind of car? I want to switch the rear springs on my car but I need the correct part numbers.

As far as I know leds came wit facelift. Anything pre facelift has xenons

Worth a look I had the same problem as described there, got the code and light on dashboard from time to time. Noticed this thread and decided to throw money to my car without further investigation. B1S2 (160€) was relatively cheap compared to B1S1(450€ and already changed) so it was worth to try it for me. No more code and light and seems that I had the same problem as described in the linked thread. Dudes who changed my B1S2 insisted that tester showed it was working fine and it must be air leak, but changed it anyway because I told them to do so. I tested for air leaks and found none. However I did not notice so significant MPG change as you are describing. Because values were mostly correct and sometimes drifted. It is possible though that B1S2 is much more fubared than mine was and still give errors to B1S1. You should test it before throwing money to it blindly. I got lucky.

Oh, I have an estate and I just assumed that all mk3-s have it the same way. What did they say about assumptions, that it was the mother of all... ? Anyhow, in my case the tube was broken and it ****ed it all over the electronics