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I wouldn't let the lack of a reversing camera put you off, that's easy enough to retrofit. Let us know what you decide. 👍

Nice spec! How did you get on, @Gaz?

Do you know which is the version with port injection and which is direct injection only, as that would be a decision factor for me?

The Golf R is a strong scally-magnet. I know someone near me who had one and he had three different attempts to steal if off his drive. (His was also an estate) He loved the car but got rid of it eventually as he couldn't be doing with the aggro.

Still live on the website. That's pretty slow of them. 😞

The rust isn't an issue, but those grooves on the disk strike me as unusual on a car with only 6K miles, if not particular cause for concern.

The smartphone holder was ridiculously implemented. I don't know what phone they expected would fit into that. Mine is knocking around somewhere, but it is an annoyingly useless lump of rubber.

"Not supported". Well now, isn't that peachy. 🙄 I'm hesitant to get into long coding as it seems my vehicle is quite an unusual variant, so I'll have to keep researching exactly how to turn the fake noise off. Not that it's a huge problem, but now it seems I can't easily change it, of course I want to change it all the more. 😄

2017.

Thought I'd post a link to this cautionary tale from @vrs'burks. Be careful what you wish for, especially when it's "More noise."

Ford is helping to save the planet. https://edition.cnn.com/2024/04/24/business/ford-earnings-ev-losses/index.html

I was going to say something but I figured Stonekeeper was just kidding.

I'd try white spirit to remove the glue, then Isopropyl (70%) to remove the white spirit.

If your vehicle has a sunroof, it's worth checking that the drainage holes are clear as they can get blocked and are a pain to unblock, but there are other issues that can cause sunroof leaks, so check that it doesn't.

Another issue is the dreaded silica bag. Look for "mit silikat" legend on your coolant expansion tank.

As it's a DI engine, you're starting to get into inlet valve carbon-build up territory. If it drives fine then there's nowt to worry about, but it's a problem that can appear between 50-100K miles on the TSI DI engines. The solution is to clean the inlet valves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTV-uHv5Cwk

Yeah, I think 6 years is a trigger for down-rating the car for some reason. Be interesting to see how a nearly new car scores. I'll have a look online for a suitable reg...

Spotted this as an advert on YouTube and thought I'd give it a go as I was checking on the status of my old Mondeo which it didn't find, so I tried it with my Octavia, which it did find. The basic check is free, but there's a more involved check you can pay for to get more information if you're interested in that. The fun bit is being awarded a "score" rating for your car, based on age, annual mileage and MOT success rate (and probably other things as well). https://vehiclescore.co.uk/ Here's my score. How does your car rate? (Presumably I lost a few points for the car being nearly 5 years old.)

I tucked it under the plastic trim that covers the edge of the carpets. Can't say it was a great job, but as it was formerly in the headlining, I was just happy to get it well away from the curtain airbags.

An interesting video (certainly I found him interesting) from a proper character and not some confected e-personality.

Just my tuppence worth, but I'd like to remind you that a warranty is essentially a gamble that your car will break down. You "win" the gamble by getting a successful claim against a failure on your car. (Note, your claim against a failure on your car may be rejected, but you'll still be billed for the warranty. That way you "lose" twice.) You "lose" the bet if your car doesn't break down, so the cost of the warranty was essentially wasted other than to give peace of mind, albeit illusory in some instances. That said, in a perfect claim, a decent warranty can save you a small fortune.

Yes, I have done this (though not on a Kodiaq). My advice is to route your cables low, and then you won't have to worry about the dashcam cable fouling the side curtain airbags which fire down from the headlining over the windows.

Maybe @DAN@ADRIAN FLUX can shed some light on this?

I don't use recirculation on the AC system unless I am avoiding smoke or vehicle fumes. In very hot weather, I leave the AC to draw in fresh air, but I also open the rear windows of my car when I set off to help increase airflow through the car and release some of the hot air that was trapped in my car when it was parked. I close the windows after a short while when the temperature inside starts to fall.

My ideas are as follows, in order of what I think is the best solution for your problem. 1) Take it to a garage, describe the fault and ask them to fix it if economically viable. Otherwise..... 2) Find out how the recirculating air lever works in the Citigo, determine what fault would cause the lever to jam in the way it has, and then fix the problem yourself, with the assistance of Briskoda members who may help by explaining how to solve specific issues like taking out the radio, etc. Otherwise.... 3) Simply drive with the windows open a crack and the heater turned up a bit. And finally... 4) Hope that it's just some silly feature you didn't know about and the solution is simple, easy and free, and all you have to do is ask the right person to explain it to you. <--- I suspect you are here. It's always a good point to start at, as sometimes it is just a silly feature you didn't know about.