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Just buy a car appropriate for your needs.

They are lovely-looking wheels, but now your car seems to sit too high. On the 16" wheels and chubby tyres, the clearance looked right. It looked like the car would happily bump along rough conditions and up and down kerbs without a worry. Now on the 18" wheels, the front end looks like one of those all gas-suspension Citroens with the suspension up on tip-toes.

Some excellent tyres are always a good investment for improving your car's performance. As @nta16 suggested, absolutely tip-top servicing and good-quality fuel will also help you get the best out of your car. For performance, reduce weight if at all possible, and keep your car super clean. Then I suggest you lean-into the low power. With a low-power car you can used all the available engine power more of the time. Conservation of momentum and maintaining speed is important, so you'll learn to drive better, finding the best line, when to brake, how much to brake. You won't inflate your insurance cost (Morning Dan!), and you won't knacker your car by over-stressing components. And when it comes to sell the car, all you've done to it is service it perfectly, kept it clean and used great tyres & good fuel, so you'll get the most money back on the car when it comes to replace it. Seriously, embrace the low power as a feature, not a problem. Don't tune the car, use the car to tune yourself. 👍 (Of course I expect you to completely ignore this advice and fit an induction kit and a noisy exhaust, but that's cool. 😄)

The manager, obviously. 😋 <edit> P.S. I hate to do it, but I have to: It's "To whom?".

You're quite correct that this mod will both offer no performance advantage (and may actually make things worse), as well as be considered a modification by insurers. However it may well give the desired meaty sound your son thinks will make his driving experience more enjoyable. He's unlikely to accept an electronic substitute (but it's worth a shot as a compromise) https://www.maxhaust.com/en/active-sound There are two approaches I'd go for. 1) As a cheap fix, I would try and use the police as an attack vector. Tell him if he draws attention to his car, he may get unwanted attention from the police. He may well be stopped, have to produce his documents, which will involve insurance documents, and his insurers might find out about the modification. If that fails.... 2) I'd reluctantly permit the endeavor, so long as it's done properly at his expense. Tell him you will not oppose his mods, so long as they are done well, are reversible for when the car is sold, the insurers are informed of every change, and he pays for everything. Tell him you will check with the insurers to make sure that they are aware of every change he has made to the car to ensure that the insurance cover is not harmed. A third option is to leave him to get on with it and FAFO. Having to deal with the consequences of foolish endeavors is all part of life. It might be that there are no serious outcomes to the mod, and all he gets is extra noise when he drives. But there are possible negative consequences. Good luck!

What is the problem you think you need to address? The problem, not the difference between the spare tyre and your fitted road tyres.

Hi! Just a few questions. Is the issue better or worse when the car is cold/just started? Is the issue better or worse when the car has been driven for a 15 minutes or more? Is the issue better or worse when the weather is cold? Is the issue better or worse when the weather is warm/hot?

The best advice I can give you on engine swaps, is that if you have to ask for advice, don't do it. But if you really MUST do it, expect the project cost to spiral, expect to have to put-up with some unfortunate trade-offs (which could be benign or downright infuriating), brace yourself for some insurance issues, and expect to have the car for life because it'll be tricky to sell. Edit: I forgot, expect it to take about 5 to 10 times longer than you expected it to take.

It depends what you want. Only you can know the preferences & prejudices driving your automotive desires, but if the mandate is for cheap & reliable motoring, the 1.9TDI is a solid bet. I have a gift for being able to rationalise any purchase I make. If you can master that skill, you'll never buy the "wrong" car again. 😄

That wouldn't worry me at all, I'd just get it changed. 👍

The 1.9PD TDI is fabulously reliable if cared for. If it's running well, that would be my choice for a cheapo reliable option. I'd hang onto that sweet Clio too, if room permitted. 😄

I've used something like this, dampened but not too wet, and it worked pretty well.

No idea, I have a Gen3B.

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What device are you talking about?

To answer your question, of the two cars, the TDI. Personally I'd go for an older car with lower mileage in the same price bracket instead of either of those two. I think you're trying to beat the system by getting a young high-mileage car, and while I too like that, I think you're possibly going too high mileage. That said, if you have some spare cash for repairs, maybe you're onto a winner? If my heart was set on one of the cars, I'd go for the TDI and expect to have to put some money into the DPF, EGR and probably the adjustable dampers on the L&K before too long.

Excuse the AI, but these might be worth checking-out, and I think they're in your neck of the woods. I can't vouch for any of them, but they might be worth calling and seeing if you like the sound of them. VAG (Volkswagen, Audi, SEAT, Skoda) diesel specialists in South Yorkshire, UK Volkstech (Maltby, Rotherham) Location: Unit A13 Aven Industrial Estate, Maltby, Rotherham, S66 7QR Why Choose Them: Volkstech is an independent garage specializing in VW, Audi, Skoda, and SEAT vehicles. Their technicians have over 40 years of combined experience, including 25 years at VW Rotherham as Master Technician and Service Manager. They use genuine VW parts, ensuring warranty compliance, and offer up to 50% savings compared to main dealers. Services include diagnostics, servicing, DSG and Haldex 4WD diagnostics, and clutch/gearbox repairs. They also provide free vehicle collection and delivery. Contact: 01709 296260, [email protected] Hours: Mon-Fri: 8:30am - 5:00pm, Sat-Sun: Closed The Garage Sheffield (Sheffield) Location: Central Sheffield (2 minutes from Sheffield train station) Why Choose Them: An independent VAG specialist with over 12 years of experience, offering dealer-level repairs and servicing for VW, Audi, SEAT, and Skoda at lower costs. They are members of the Retail Motor Industry Federation (RMI), adhering to strict quality standards. Customers can speak directly with technicians, and they provide a range of services, including diagnostics, MOTs, and repairs. Contact: 0114 273 7333 Hours: Mon-Fri: 8:30am - 5:00pm, Sat: 8:30am - 12:30pm, Sun: Closed Tec-Nick Autos (Sheffield) Location: Unit 5 William House, Dannemora Drive, Sheffield, S9 5DF Why Choose Them: Run by ex-dealer technicians with extensive VAG experience, Tec-Nick Autos offers servicing, diagnostics, re-mapping, and repairs at a fraction of dealer costs. They provide a free collection and delivery service and use state-of-the-art equipment. Customer reviews highlight their honesty, quality work, and approachable service. Contact: 0114 275 4189, 07841 910611 Hours: Mon-Fri: 8:30am - 5:30pm, Sat: 8:30am - 1:30pm German Autocentre (Sheffield) Location: Sheffield Why Choose Them: An independent Volkswagen specialist with dealer-trained mechanics, offering diagnostics, repairs, and servicing at 33% lower prices than main dealers. They specialize in diesel-specific issues like DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) diagnostics and repairs, as well as turbo faults. Services include timing chain replacement, wheel alignment, and MOTs, with a free courtesy car and interest-free payment plans available. Contact: 0114 327 2027 A.V.G. Technique (Doncaster) Location: A1, Great North Rd, Woodlands, Doncaster, DN6 7SU Why Choose Them: Recommended on VAG enthusiast forums, A.V.G. Technique is a specialist in the Doncaster area for VW, Audi, SEAT, and Skoda vehicles. Customers report knowledgeable staff, though specific details on diesel expertise are limited. Worth contacting for diesel-specific inquiries. Contact: 01302 727631 AI RecommendationFor a great VAG diesel specialist in South Yorkshire, Volkstech in Maltby, Rotherham, stands out due to their extensive experience, use of genuine parts, and comprehensive diesel-specific services like DSG and Haldex diagnostics. If you’re closer to Sheffield, Tec-Nick Autos or German Autocentre are excellent choices, particularly for their expertise in diesel issues like DPF and turbo faults, backed by strong customer feedback and competitive pricing. Next Steps: Contact Volkstech or Tec-Nick Autos to discuss your specific diesel vehicle needs and confirm their expertise with your model. You can also check www.garagesnearme.co.uk for additional local VAG specialists.

I think you need an expert mechanic you can trust. But don't despair, it's essentially a good engine when running right.

Fill the car up with good quality fuel and some injector cleaner. Fill the car with people and luggage. Go for a good drive on a road where you can get the revs up, ideally with a good uphill run so you're working the car hard. See what the smoke situation is during and after the drive. If it doesn't help at all, do what @Warrior193 suggested. A good hot work-out under load can do smokey diesels the world of good. This is good stuff, but other products are available.

TL:DR Buy the vRS. There's so much to consider and we all have different preferences and priorities. The vRS will cost more to run. Pretty much everything will cost more: Tyres, fuel use, insurance, servicing, etc. The vRS will be more fun to drive. It's not just a bigger engine and more go, there's a load of differences that combine to make the vRS a hoot to drive, but the extra near 100HP is not to be sniffed at either. The vRS won't be as comfortable to live with. It's set up to be sporty and practical, but it's definitely going to be less comfortable than the SE Tech. The vRS will likely depreciate less than the SE Tech. With that desirability comes additional risk. 'Orrible scrotes will covet your vRS and if you have to park it on the road in a dodgy area, mind how you go. Especially if you have keyless entry. Beyond that, the better ergonomics of the MK3.5 vRS over the MK4 touch-screen for everything (slight exaggeration) should not be under-estimated. The vRS can be chugged around fairly happily without having to work hard to keep your speed up, but the downside to that (I may get some aggro for this), is that if you fancy a thrash around, the vRS may actually be a bit too much. I'll explain: I have the use of two cars. A 2.0 Octavia TSI SE L remapped to about 230hp, and a Fiesta 1.6 with about 120hp. I can thrash the pants off the Fiesta at relatively sensible speeds. The only time I really give the Octavia full throttle is on motorway slip roads. Bottom line, I don't think you'd regret buying the vRS. You might bemoan the costs and the occasional bumpy ride, and worry about getting it nicked, but it will put a smile on your face that the 1.5 MK4 cannot. You'll never forget the vRS.

I've seen worse. I don't think you have anything to worry about, but if you can wrangle a new set of tyres off the back of those cracks, go for it. At least you have a supplier to go back to. I used to use a mobile tyre fitter who was rubbish at assisting with my tyre cracking problem (3-year old tyre below). Which is why I stopped using him in favour of a premises-based supplier. I spoke to Bridgestone about my tyre cracks (Turanza 001) and they said it was due to lack of use meaning the "oils" within the tyre weren't able to move and keep the tyres supple. The tyre fitter said there was a rubber shortage following fires at rubber plantations, so alternative materials were being used in tyre production. 🤷‍♂️ I don't know what the truth of the matter is, but I swapped them for GY Assym 6's and so far they've been great. For whatever reason, it seems tyres are more prone to cracking these days.

This is a good policy. Keep looking and you will see the right car and you'll know it's the right car for you. If in doubt, walk away.

As a random guess, there are pressure-relief vents off the boot. They might be blocked or damaged, I suppose. What a strange problem.

Not sure your bumper is out of whack, but something is certainly out of true. The questions are: 1) What is the problem you are trying to solve? 2) What will solving the problem gain you?

Hello and welcome. I think you're fundamentally right about dodging the simple stuff and focusing on the misfire, though that gear selector micro-switch is probably worth sorting out quickly, IMO. When was the car last serviced? Plugs, lead, coil packs might all be a problem at that sort of mileage if not already replaced/serviced, though the power cycle reset seems to suggest it's an intermittent fault, not just faulty old parts. I don't know the dealer, but I would be pushing them to either sort out the problem now, or extend your warranty for this issue if they insist that you have to keep driving it to get more data on the fault.