imart143

in video, this chemisist removed all, first soot and then ash with 25% HCL. listen him again.

no need to open dpf, many people cleaned them by therirselves. look for this video, you ill get all answers.

here, you have latest 480T firmware, also your 235T https://mibvault.com/files/MST2%20-TechniSat%20Preh/Firmware/SKODA_ZR/EU

look at this topic

here is database and tutorials: https://mib-helper.com/ https://mibvault.com/

i had 3 yo continental all season tyres on yeti 4x4 and car was beutiful to drive, even in snow, but question is on FWD car and of course on RWD. now on Karoq FWD which is on same drivetrain like Octavia 3, i have Bridgestone all season 6.. not bad for all weather, but in summer 2mms of front tyres melted down on 60+°C roads. in winter about 0- minus 6°C tyres hardened. next spring tyres are 50% harder than new one. i drove them 24 months and now wish a new ones. again on 4WD car it can be driven for years.

But in 1000 km or 2 months extra urban level dropped about 0.2 litre. Meanwhile i remapped engine, but that did not increase coolant loss. It was on same place full one year after i bought then i replaced coolant, after few weeks, i was thinking maybe there is some air bubbles inside and it have to settle, but one year passed still same. I maku mixture about -25%C to avoid old pump leak. And around pump housing there is no any sign of coolant, fresh or dry. I saw that pump mechanism have problems with sealing and happenes slight leak on housing, between two aluminium parts on housing. It cant cause imidiattely coolant loss but anyway i am worried.

EFB batteries are better in warm climate, AGM batteries are better in cold climate. AGM can degrade under the hood and engine bay, where temperatures are high in summer. EFB can degrade in winter cold.

not the best, it is old version till 2018. but it will survive..

i have litle more HP, gearbox is MQ281, nor 200. clutch depends on driving style. i dont drive it like a sports car, because Karoq it is not. i just simply have more power - torque when i need.. and sometimes i floor it on highway for few minutes, notnihg happened in a 1.5 year, only increased fuel and oil consumption.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/self-amalgamating-tapes/

I use self vulcanisated tape to fix it. Better than new. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/self-amalgamating-tapes/

after a while, vibrations made me have headaches, so i modified insert, i was browsing internet and many people did similar, i cut out some elementr to increase motion from zero motion with full insert, it is not drivable. this is another level, no more vibrations on start and 2 cilinder mode, but holds well on speeding and sporty driving..

i had bad timing noise from engine after bad timing belt change. on 2.0 TDI 2011.

it is for cold winter, where thermostat dont open at all. so airflow thru cooler is not needed. with this blocage engine warms up more quickly.

i put new hidraulic mount, Lemforder, and on lower mount i put powerflex yellow insert. now engine runs in idle like a diesel, but i think it will settle down more after a while. hidraulic mount had bad play, new one have almost not play at all.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4hDEtQ2Q3wDCwcx7A

you can try to buy original oil filters, but dont touch sump plug.

do a service manual on 30000 and 60000 kms, and in between do just oil change by yourself. use a vacum pump and suck from dipstick hose. dont touch sump plug. service wont investigate which oil is in engine.

unbelivable. so AGM are not cheaper with no reason..

Wheel is on left side, correct, not UK. Not all cars are involved. Some of them which have bolts of some series. VAG dont produce these bolts. Original bolts are made in some steelworks in India. Different factories, different versions, some of them were low quality. Same bolts are used on other parts of suspension, engine mounts, etc.

Nope. My car by VIN is not in any recall. How is it possible? More quality bolts used?

When I see 9 years efb in diesel i am surprised. Maybe long distance driving. I have many short trips, stop and go. Original was efb OEM Varta, 59Ah, then i buyed 3 years ago new exide Efb 60 Ah. Now i see that Exide AGM 61Ah is cheaper than EFB 60Ah. It is 140€ and efb is 160€ Should i buy agm next? 1.5 tsi evo 110 kW.

Which is critria for doubt to be efb or agm? I didnt know tdi have efb.. renault od their dci engines originally uses agm batteries.

I use Exide for years..

It was VW 508/509 0W20 originally in the car, changed only on 32000 kms and 66000 kms. i bought it with 82000 kms and change oil and filters same day. in my skoda service manual it says oil can be 0w20, 0w30, or even 5w30, depends on climate, only notice is: with thicker oil, emissions can be higher and fuel consumption too. I put 0W30 because its 50% cheaper and i like to change everything by myself, not just oil. so i bought 5x5 liters to have in next 3 years change 2x a year, it is my hobby, car is my pet 🙂 have a vacuum pump also.