imart143

delete those errors and rescan again complete scan. excluse turbo options scan (non automatic) before replacing lambda, check wires, connestors, often issue... measure resistance on lambda wires this is copied from Google AI. Resistance: To test lambda sensor resistance, disconnect its electrical connector, set a multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting, and measure the resistance across the two heater wires, which should typically be between 2 and 14 ohms at ambient temperature but can be higher when the sensor is warm. A reading of zero (open circuit) or very low resistance indicates a failed heater element, suggesting the lambda sensor needs to be replaced. Voltage: Step-by-Step Guide 1. Allow the Engine to Warm Up: Start your Citigo's engine and let it reach its normal operating temperature. 2. Set the Multimeter: Turn your multimeter to the DC voltage setting. A measuring range of 1V or 2V is suitable. 3. Identify the Signal Wire: Find the lambda sensor's signal wire. This is typically the "black" wire, but it's crucial to consult your Citigo's circuit diagram to identify the correct wire. 4. Connect the Multimeter Probes: Insert a back-probe test lead into the sensor's connector to contact the signal wire. Touch the red probe of the multimeter to the signal wire. Touch the black probe to a good ground point on the vehicle, such as the chassis or battery negative terminal. 5. Observe the Voltage Reading: With the engine running at a steady speed (around 2,500 rpm), observe the multimeter. Good Sensor: A functional lambda sensor will show a rapidly fluctuating voltage, cycling between approximately 0.1V and 0.9V. Faulty Sensor: If the voltage remains steady at a fixed value, or if it doesn't change, the sensor is likely faulty and needs to be replaced. Important Considerations Heated Lambda Sensors: Modern lambda sensors are heated. You can also test the heater element's resistance with the multimeter set to the ohms (Ω) function. Consult your vehicle's service manual to identify the heater wires (usually two of the same color, like white) and their specifications. Refer to Your Vehicle's Manual: Always refer to your vehicle's specific service manual to confirm the correct wire colors, specifications, and test procedures for the lambda sensor. "

what about cleaning additives in fuel? are they present in fuels, or we can add it manually in gas tank, example. can this be benefit in any way or just scam? https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/pro-line-gasoline-system-cleaner-p000062.html?srsltid=AfmBOooYywt91xCFlCaI71UDQzRh5fQQFB0Zj04H1nDOvqyNRa-yJOSV#5153

dont change batteries with open doors on car or sitting in car. lock car, go away from it in apartment, ensure that is no signal to car and then replace. i always do that way. dont put thick battery. it should easy fit on its place without pushing etc..

urban driving is destroing oil more quickly than highway. that is i do too, but on 1.5 tsi 150. 0w30, 505-507, Shell AV-L, average speed 30km/h, interval 8000kms or 8 months.

it goes too rich, too much gasoline, low air. lambda sensor is correcting amount of fuel. it have to get some issue on scan tools. those values are like you dont have catalisateur and O2 sensor.

I was thinking of adding a fuel filter to my 1.5 tsi in a Skoda Karoq, simply insert it somewhere between the low pressure pump pipe and the front of the engine, measure the pipe diameter, buy 2 adapters, drain the fuel so it flows out of the pipe and blow it out with a compressor so that it doesn't catch fire when heated with a hairdryer. All of this is universal. filter, fittings, pipes..

use English.

i did replaced shock absorbers, bearings, dust protectors and rubber upper parts connecting shocks to body. i also replaced those tiny connection torque bar links. i didnt see noticable play but as are them half disasembled i put new one looks like original (Febi bilstein) all shocks, bearings and rubber holders and other stuff are Sachs. replaced driveshaft big bolts from trilesquare to normal 6 square bokts from vw transporter. bolt quality is same, 8.8 lenght little longer, from 70mm to 75 but it does not matter. i dont have dedicated triplesquare socket so i use regular 12 square 24 socket to release bolts and regular 27mm 6 square socket to tighten new bolts. they have same purpose, put a loctite blue on thread and torqued to 200 Nm. after all was done, i put wheels on ground, torqued rim bolts with 120 Nm and on driveshaft bolt added 3x45 degrees, i have not more strenght in muscles and in my ower back that hurts, somewhere i have some a 1 meter long steel pipe to extend handle with an inner diameter greater than 1 inch, which is the diameter of the handle of a 3/4 inch lever, 455 mm long, an impact socket adapter to 1/2 which sockets I have all of medium quality brands (some Hazet but mostly Unior, LUX, Proxxon, Stahl, not Stahlwille, I don't know if this tool still exists.) After the complete assembly of the front suspension, the car no longer rocks, doesn't bang or drift, doesn't dance in the corner, except that I hear a slight metallic scraping sound, I think I bent the front disc's protective sheet a little so I still have to straighten that out. One driveshaft bolt went 180 degrees and stopped, no matter how much I jumped on the lever with all my body weight, it didn't go even 1 mm while the other one could go further, but I don't think I reached 180 degrees, probably 160. But I think it's all holding up well, because it's really tight. Now I'm planning on rear shock absorbers, because they're from the same era, there's no Sachs replacement OEM but there are Bilstein B4 which are like the originals. It's interesting that the current Sachs front ones are a little longer than the OEM ones that were factory-fitted on the Azjuta, about 1 inch higher, although it's not visible either optically or behind the wheel. piston is longer, or it goes more up, lower black tube body is same.

Tnx. I am already made shopping list. Maybe add something? All bushings are solid as rock.

nobody answers to my poor topic so i will post here, similar problems, any further suggestions? link:

On my car none, on friends car Sava All weather. I have bridgestone and has CC2

I have a strange problem with my Karoq, 70000 miles, when the weather is dry and warm, I can hear a knocking sound on the right front side on bumps, sometimes a slight squeak, there is no play anywhere on the suspension, the right shock absorber is a little but very slightly greasy and I wipe it off and only after a month is it a little again and so on. In general, the shock absorbers are bad, when I press the front hood or under it, when the car is in the garage, it bounces, that is, the shock absorbers do not stop it properly. In one or both of them, I can hear a gurgling of fluid, like bubbles or something, probably a lack of oil. When I press it 10 times and release the shock absorbers "inflate" and then the front end returns to normal. Regardless, for the first 2 km there is a knocking sound and a squeak but a little, like some kind of rubber. And later on when driving it is occasionally heard, now it has been raining for several days and everything is wet and nothing can be heard, nothing at all. Can anyone explain this mystery? I mean to change the front shock absorbers and the links of the torsion bar, in the store they don't want to sell me only the shock absorbers, but together with the supports and bearings on the upper side, they say that it is changed as a set. I would do it myself because I have the tools and have already changed shocks on 3 previous cars. opinions?

there must be fault code writen in ecu. service will read it and find why it happened. they can reflash complete ecu map again.

car is not stable with all seasons like on summer tyres. i am tired of changing wheels every six week, and or karoq last year bought Bridgestone Turanza All season 6, feeling is better than on CC2. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Bridgestone/Turanza-All-Season-6.htm

I have blueish, not the most cheaper, works good with torque. But if you need only for vag obd11, there are some dicounts https://obdeleven.com/products

VAG dpf app if you have android, some cheap obd2 adaper. i used this one. (9€) https://www.amazon.com/KVAEY-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0DKN9VL8Y/ref=sr_1_28?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5N2AWbe8pET5wz0alfNdYnJyCOnly6pwgKfedoivlnIkYrAgCvUJb11huYJyo_i75PiUZoQktWj8WqcOIpwH_ZjIHOQSYSl_KsbFk77qXcz_JzV4JdxykCS4ajNMASnp0cHd6UIQQHe31JRi7RgO8uZDroLNaaHs6Rkws_-_ylpf7_pAmaGZhLRTndC3kHLTkFno-KttbFxwxW4mlv--FCPVRXS1UQJJSi0kogrHPDepz81Wk9VGzR7Famiab2PvYSBWio6I3Y5t_Nz3umg_T_RnTEEprkimG_OPj4GX13M.gZnzNl1a9LDQAZKJzlOOvfvu_FpRcPjeOaDSrMdwqKk&dib_tag=se&keywords=bluetooth%2Bobd2%2Badapter&qid=1751364404&sr=8-28&th=1 and google play app (6-7€) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.applagapp.vagdpf&hl=en

you thing on mine front right shock this is normal situation, after a month, i cleaned it all around and its again little leak..

are you kidding or? these oe on car are piece of ****. i thought on many cars fail earlier, two yrs, 2000kms.. is it normal for Sachs? arent those one f the best quality? 3 yrs ago i had oem TRW i think on renault megane and no leak, no bouncing for 12 yrs, if this oem is sachs they have short life, 5 years, 85000 kms, okay roads are bad. I hope the bouncing and noises will go away, I can still replace the rubber stabilizer links, they are not expensive, otherwise none of the links have any play, front, rear, ball joints are stiff.. seems all righ right one has leak and front part of car it bounces, I press the front hood and it makes 3 rebounds instead of one, knocking is heard, especially the right side up which strut has a small leak, the right stabiliser is loose, the left one is stiff, and don't like behavior of car which front part bounces, maybe they are at 70% capacity, they are not very cheap, there are Chinese ones for €30, these are €87 a piece. i prepaired list od parts needed. SACHS 318 198 shocks probably there is left and right because these two are not simetrical, holder of Stabilizer link is on other side. SACHS 803 024 shock absorber cap+bearing set Dust cover kit, shock absorber SACHS 900 349 Rod/Strut, stabilizer FEBI BILSTEIN 102810 (maybe not needed, but not expensive and are half dismounted in process) I plan to replace the rear shock absorbers too next year i see there is some rubber under spring https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5q0412545d-coil-spring-shelf-skoda-24934.html i dont know is it for changing or not, my seller says look inspect and proceed, rare causes problems. so it will be without it. i will replace driveshaft bolt with this six square heads same dimensions, i dnt have propriate 3/4 socket do torque it to 200 Nm + 180°, old ones are 12 square, hardness 10.9. and new are softer, 8.8. but torwqe is same. these parts costs me till now 300€. i will work myself.

they say no limit. i will change it on 150000 kms or 10 yrs..

not great, not terrible. car producer dont want you to have no problems with your engine, but when problem appears, they call it feature. instead of that i am using 0w30. 5w30 isnt bad, 0W30 is better, not so thin like 0w20, in winter it do same like 0w20. i am buying SHELL helix ultra professional AV-L 504/507.00 0w30, 5 liter can for 40€. changing every 8000 kms. says made in germany.

when you interrupt regen and turn off car, regen stops, fuel in exhaust goes down to dilute oil, and fans are spinning to max speed to cool down DPF, because high temperature without fuel post injection can danage DPF. try not to interrupt renegs, or avoid it as possible, because it dilutes engine oil..

depedns also is it 1.0, 1.4 tsi od 2.0 tdi 170ps.. maybe 2.0 tsi 4x4 or else.. more data needs. also do you need front, rear or all 4 discs.

thanks, this did good job 3 times, inflate to 2 bar and than drive few miles to gas station and top it up to 2.5bar or similar. i hope i would not need it much, wish it wont be never. look at this mie, its same chinese product, even stand is same.. first is mine, second is newer version. i mean for 15€ its good.. mine have aluminium cilinded and piston

thats easy job now. turn engine to 4th cilinder valve sty open, that means that 1-2-3 are closed. spray little brake cleaner to see it valve seals properly. if yes, take bottle of carburetter cleaner add spray in ports 1-2-3 to the top. wait 12 hours, i left it to morning, you will se how easy dirt will come off, isung just plastic brushes and picks. i uset tools and stuff like that on pictures. cut a piece of this polimer mesh for cleaning copper pipes and fix it to some pick or little tweezers, with plastic zip ties, that i have not use strengh on fingers and detailed brush everything. when liquid become black and thick, i pull it out with come cotton cloth, use compressed air too and see where depozits are left, then concentrate on them. same stuff carb cleaner and brushing. all of that will cost you 30€, i wont never pay 700€ how much some garage ask me to, or skoda service i think 1000€. insane. look before and after..

I did it manual way and cost me 30€ Can of car uretter cleaner spray, soak cyl. 1, 2 and 3, let valves complete flow in it. Next day, that soot came off very rasy, with plastic tools and some picks. If you have knowledge to pull out intake mainfold, you will easy finish it.