imart143

there is no official or unofficial recall for skoda europe, only VW and Audi. since there is no upgraded bolts, VAG will change bolst with same M12 x 1.5 x 70 mm number N105 524 02. no matter is it left or right sided wheel, bolts are same. i found some pics.

yes, i am using 0W30 VW 504/507 oil.

Is there a recall somewhere on Skoda's website? I can't find it anywhere (I don't think it's articles from popular newspapers or social networks, but an official channel).

everything is better than factory 30000kms change. my oil is always light brown, no matter what. nothing to clog filter.

me too . i buyed 20 litres of Shell helix ultra 0w30 AV-L for good price and changing oil with filter on 9000 kms - 12 months, and between that i change only oil in half that period.

than all bolts on subframe are involved.. not just one.

Galvanisation is possible only when is steel in contact with aluminium, moisture and salt. On my car and on any car with steel subframe bolt is not corroded. Anyway for my own sake, i will change both bolts by myself, not only one of them. Check by your vin https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

I checked on skoda web for recall, for my car vin it is not needed. In fact, only cars that have alluminium subframe are involved. Mine have pressed steel subframe, not need to change bolts.

I have a strange problem with my Skoda Karoq, when I drive alone, the steering wheel is on the left side, near the front right wheel, or the mudguard or the floor, I hear a knocking sound on the holes and speed bumps as if something is loose, as if the suspension is faulty, but the shock absorbers, mounts, bearings and support rods were recently replaced, the brakes are new and everything has passed the MOT, but it is still audible. What is even more incredible is that NOTHING is heard when someone else is sitting in the passenger seat. I checked the seat, everything is fixed, nothing is moving anywhere, and the sound is coming from outside. Does anyone have an idea how to fix it?

and clutch will last longer..

or DSG car

yes, only handbrake cable on drum goes on lower part od axle and disc brake on upper part, but cable can be fixed with strong ZIP ties, that is not a problem. and disc version have 2 disc bracket holes. you can ignore them.

difference is only on places where handbrake cable mountings are welded.. new aftermarket parts have probably disc and drum parts welded.

Those bolts are in 10.9 class. Tensile strenght 1000 N/mm² which is high strenght, to get it to plastic deformation, much more torque needed than aluminum block can endure. I dont think i need new bolts. Not for aluminium mount. Old ones are good enough. It that place, when changing timing set belt, you have to change 50 bolts which is insane.

I am also sure it is dead. New LEMFÖRDER 39779 01 is 85€. Can change it by myself https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/catalog/products/39779%2B01?country=EN

There’s no oil around it, but my previous car—a Renault Megane—had a mount like that too; it was soft and wobbly, whereas it had been firm when new. The Škoda is 7 years old and has 100,000 km on it.

This pipe you had picture is big one from PCV valve to intake. Tiny pipe on my pic is one that cracks and only on part where is ribbed, go to your friend to take it of engine, and repair part that have leaks. I uset rubber tape, for me best material, go to 90°C. New pipe is 170€ in skoda-parts

in original, VAG have complete system with valve and its expensive, i had minor leaks and diassemble hoses from engine and this rubber is not bar, but plastic one have few leaks, i used selfvulcanization tape and I wrapped the entire ribbed pipe with it, 2 years ago, and everything is still fine. It's oil-based, this rubber fuel-based one never cracks. https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/b00011942/

oil evapour, gasoline evapour

New upgraded bolts told to have better anticorrision protection. Some polimer shield. But i think Inox bolts will be better. Earlier versions like on xour car had 4 bolts holding steering rack. Mqb2 have only 2 of them. Economy?

I noticed a knocking sound when I drive a little harder and when changing gears from first to second in my Karoq 1.5 tsi (manual), and knocking sounds over bumps and the speed bump, I did a movement test but in place, is it normal for the engine to move like this and knock on the mount or should I replace it? it's a hydraulic mount. Video is on my car. Pictures are from web, new mount distance. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LkhX6nHXugVktT3Q6

without opening a new topic, I noticed a knocking sound when I drive a little harder and when changing gears from first to second in my Karoq 1.5 tsi (manual), and knocking sounds over bumps and the speed bump, I did a movement test but in place, is it normal for the engine to move like this and knock on the mount or should I replace it? it's a hydraulic mount. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LkhX6nHXugVktT3Q6

N 105 524 2 bolts holding steering wreck, M12x1,5x70, 10.9 class, passenger side, change both of them. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n10552402-screw-m12x1-5x70-skoda-19278.html

i have changed brake fluid on my karoq but with engine off. so fluid from ABS did not changed. how much oil is in ABS pump, and is it mixed then with other oil when brakes are using?

AGM are better choice, but those batteries dont like hot climate. for EFB it dont matter, in UK probably ok. i was looking to replace my 2yo EFB Exide with AGM exide, not this year, maybe next. and AGM is almost same price as EFB. interesting. why is that? 10€ difference. https://www.pricerunner.com/pl/528-3205194914/Batteries-Chargers/Exide-EK620-Compare-Prices https://www.pricerunner.com/pl/528-4782518/Batteries-Chargers/Exide-EL604-Compare-Prices