imart143

personal car. so 120000kms or 8 years is early? should do i wait 10 year and go for it?

dont be such a pesimistic. i buyed mostly all the parts, just alternator pulley and exhaust camshaft bolt not yet.. i also buyed tool from this video. i dont need 1000-2000€ for this. i get some parts on ebay, some on local stores, all INA, pump and oil separator are original. all this was 600€, tool 200€. i have small garage with mechanic tools. people around the world drive 1.5 tsi engine, less part of them are not much wise not to invent similar timing machine which is 7x cheaper. only need digital inclinometer, it comes with tool, other parts are analog. if it is not good i have professional Mitutoyo inclinometer one at work. watch this video, and it is in Germany.

i dont know what is unwise? my driving is 90% urban, who knows how many times my engine revs in 8 years, maybe bilion. not the same tdi on open road reving 2000 rpm 100000km and tsi reving from 2000-5000 revs 100000 kms and tons of urban idling.

its old school engine from 1980-is, modernized and fuel injected with cat. constructional not different from old model with carburetter. that engine was also in vw golf 1 GTI with MPI injection pump, 110 hp. my friend had all those GTI-s till todays new mode. later replaced with 1.8.

i am prepairing to change timing belt, tensioners, water pump - thermostat and all belts on my 1.5 tsi on 120000kms. it will be somewhile 2017, and 8 years old car.

on my 1.5 tsi electric pump keeps on running for few minutes, after turning of engine, warm weather or cold, nothing else. which engine do you have, its elementary to write.

Maybe for sportline skoda series.

Not obd11 or similar tool can do that. Tuners remaping tools do. Few months ago i do remapping fow few more hp and Nm, payed 400€, tuner offer me act off for another 50€, i refused. Now i regret, now act off alone is 150€ But REVO remap solved little rabbit issues, also i dont have any issues with ACT (yet) https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-details/software/skoda/karoq-nu-2018/341/stage-1

My oem were little worn out so yes it is slightly difference, but if compare new and new - similar shock. In description says B4 are oem replacements. That was what i need. On front i put Sachs also oem replacement.

I put B4 on rear axle, karoq 4x2, similar to stock oem shocks.. B6 are stiffer, but also more expensive.

added part behave like flywheel i think. increases rotation mass..

I'm collecting parts for a major service at 120,000 km and I see two variants of the alternator pulleys. This long one with an extension that I don't see the purpose of and this normal one that most cars have. Does anyone know what that extension is for other than it being harder to replace, there's no place for tools and you need a longer triplesquare 10mm socket wrench?

dont mix all of these oils. i sayd what vw told. 0w30 is supstitute for 5w30. 0w30 is superior in winter, all else is same. 0w20 is here because of ecology. but didnt proof its purpose much. i am using 0w30, because have coldwinters and warm summers. aldough my car i bought used, was driven 80000 kms with vw oil 0w20, i am using 0w30. i tryed first 5w30 but in winter is thick and engine must warm a lot to be useful. people dont like 0w20 in tsi engines. on other side ford ecoboost using 5w20. those new gasoline engines are sensitive on oils, fuels, all sort of things.. diesels are not that much.

use low saps oil, it can be also 0w30, C3. 0w30 is supstitution for 5w30, and 0w40 for 5w40. but 4w40 is not low saps oil. it can dmage or destroy DPF filter, if you hace on (not deleted) Key Oil Recommendations for 1.6 TDI: Specifications: VW 507 00 (essential for DPF). Viscosity: 5W-30 (most common) or 0W-30 (e.g., VAG LongLife III FE). Interval: While often marketed as "LongLife" (up to 30,000 km or 2 years), many users recommend changing every 15,000 km or 1 year. Ensure the oil container explicitly states it meets the VW 507 00 standard.

start - stop wont work on such cold environment. but engine must work. i dont know why you cant start it? maybe battery dead?

you think so? when is temperature 0°C or less, if i turn on AC, my side windows are clear, if i turn it off, little moisture appears. also when i turn on recirculation in cabin, AC automatically turns on to deal with moisture. AC not only cooling air but demoisturizing it.

six month ago i changed coolant, it was 6 years old, 80000 kms, put Total purple EVO PLUS concentrate with deminiralized water 50:50, no air bubbles, overheating on such, it works normally, but after that i noticed small drops in expansion tank, in 1 month, 1000 kms the level drops by 1 mm, that is about 0.1 liter, from min to max is probably 1 liter, so in 12 months maybe it can be maximum one liter, but i think no, i didnt put 0,6 litres in 6 months. more likely 0.3l. i am using Total for long years because is quallity and not expensive. 1 month ago i put new tank cap Febi, but all same, it is not much, i add 0,2-0,3 litre in 2 months. also on cap on inner side is always drop of fluid, (old and new one) and thats normal i had it on all cars i had in life i try it with tongue, and its only water. on previous cars also condensation happened and was always tasted like coolant (strong sugar taste) now i have only water condensate. it is possible that only water condeses and evaporates, and coolant stays for ever reasons. i dont get it.. https://lubricants.catalog.totalenergies.com/catalogue-B2B-fr/fr_FR/y61_glacelf-plus-evo

its a little one way valve, have a spring. broke because years, cold and heat and load of a spring. use similar valve for that diameter pipe.. or change all lines and valves.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ferleiss-03L130235AD-Return-Injector-2010/dp/B0BP1S1BSW

so when i go uphill, on diesels DPF will clean, when i go downhill, on gasoline cars GPF will clean (lean mixture.)

long or not, most important is time, heat, stress.. can be climbing uphill too. when i had eu5 tdi, i did regens climbing on a hill. since i dont live near highway its 10km road uphill and mountin is 1000 m heigh. at the top of mountain, all was cleared, i drove in same gear all way. o i see now, isnt like on diesels, but run and idle, more air, lean mixture and temperature rises. but how is possible that exhaust reach high temperatures, but nothing happens to pistons and valves.

diesel smels like diesel, gasoline like gasoline.

they are just salesmen.

because of fuel economy and ecology.

probably new egr cooler leaks too. if you bypassed egr cooler and then have no coolant drop, it aint head gasket. test old egr cooler for leaking. this not look like head or head gasket to me.

off road mode locks all 4 wheels and make them turning the same turns. like differential lock, it disables by itself on i think 30 kmh. it is different to drive with off rode, its like driving a tank, i know. try to get used to it. ask professionals in service.