FabiaGonzales

There is a gasket set available on AutoDoc for around £25 or so. They're not difficult to fit. If the oil drain isn't leaking i'd suggest leaving that one as it's a pig to get out (the o-ring sorta welds itself into the turbo, i was able to hang my whole bodyweight off it and it didn't budge, there's almost no room to get a pick down the side either). But beside that, the oil feed and coolant gaskets are easy enough to change.

Overboost means the turbo is exceeding what the ecu is requesting, perhaps the wastegate is sticking a bit. You don't need to change the map sensor. Custom tune would be a dyno tune for example, where they tune the car specially for upgrades you have done like turbo.

You need it properly custom tuning to increase the boost, the 1.4 turbos can handle 1.5 bar boost and hold that pretty steady up to around 5000rpm on the 1.2's, you should be able to reach 180bhp with a custom tune

The head unit comes in two parts, the display unit and the control unit itself. Looks like you've only got the display unit there.

Does the light on the fob flash when you press the buttons? I found that shop-bought batteries were dead out of the box. Had great success with Duracell CR2025's ordered directly from Amazon. They sell alot so it's always fresh stock, rather than ones in a shop that've been sat on a shelf for several years, potentially baked by sun etc.

Stock mq200 clutch can take around 280-300nm torque, or about 210ftlbs ish, stage 1 shouldn't be pushing it far past 240-250nm, or about 185ftlbs ish. The low end torque you lose is below 2000rpm, however i found it actually makes it easier to use less fuel since the turbo is less agressive at low rpms. There is also the "small" 1.4 turbo (from the 122/125bhp variants) which will make about 160-165bhp, and a little less peak torque, but it is more responsive than the bigger 1.4 turbo.

Part Numbers: 6V0 863 242 * xxx * is the revision letter: No letter - 1st Revision B - 2nd revision C - 3rd revision All will fit and are identical in terms of apearance etc, 1st revision has no sound deadening, 3rd revision does, i can't speak for the 2nd revision. xxx is the colour code: 9B9: Satin Black FSW: Cherry Red HUS: Wild Grey LIG: Stone Beige I'm soon to be swapping out my satin black one with a new red one, wish i'd known you wanted a black one as i'd have done swaps 😂 There are a few available on eBay but obviously 2nd hand, they cost about £70 ish brand new from Skoda. If you'd be willing to wait, you could have my old black one for free (provided you cover postage or collect it yourself) once i get to a point where i'm able to fit my new red one (i'm waiting on parts that are still on back order, so i don't have any kind of timeframe for that).

These are standard parts on Monte Carlo trim cars. You can get the parts seperately from dealerships, they are quite expensive though, and usually require painting before fitting.

I could push mine out i think another 5mm, but i decided to err on the side of caution to avoid any rubbing. I've never had any rubbing on mine as they are now, front or rear. Are yours ET35?

Yeah they're 30mm front 45mm rear. I'm also running 7J ET46 wheels with 11mm spacers at front, and 16mm spacers at rear. I'll hazard a slight guess and assume your aftermarket wheels are 7.5J, which will make the tyres look a little thinner, and it doesnt look like you're running spacers?

Downpipe (with cat delete) will make it louder somewhat in general, you'll gain maybe 5-10bhp over a stage 1 with a downpipe, with a little more noise but nothing major. I've attached two pictures of my car running eibach pro-kit springs. Running standard shocks for now, but with shorter rear bump stops from the ibiza cupra r, as it was bottoming out a little too often with the standard bump stops.

IIRC the particular one im thinking of comes with attachments for both charging an external battery and via 12v socket. Could be wrong though

What about one of the CTEK chargers that uses the 12V Cigarette Lighter socket, easy enough to install/remove too.

I'm not aware of any clutch issues? It's the same clutch on both the 5 and 6 speed too. The stock clutch seems to be generally able to hold up to around 300nm. My clutch has now got 101k miles on it, 181bhp and 285nm for the most recent 28k of those, and it's still rock solid. I thought i'd finally killed it a while back but it turns out it was just contamination, still kicking on lol

2.0T Golf R engine and IS38 swap? (Or that new garret one?) I imagine it'll take a bit of wiring work swapping the ECU across though.

True, but off the shelf options don't fit without modification. Any idea what caused the valve(s?) to drop? Seems like it's not the first time an EA211 has dropped a valve.

Unfortunately you have the older EA111 engine, JBS has offerings for it but nothing here helps you sadly. Exhausts are also specific to chassis aswell as engine, so Golf / Leon / A3 / Octavia? (Or is it Superb?) are the same as they're all MQB chassis (given a specific engine), but the Fabia / Ibiza / A1 / Polo one is different given they all use the PQ26 chassis. For those with EA211 engines, the exhausts are interchangeable between the 1.2/1.4 (many use the exact same part from factory). Provided you find a 1.4 exhaust from the same platform, it'll fit. Most of the decat downpipes you see online are all for the Golf platform, so won't fit the fabia etc.

160,000 sounds like KM, equivalent to roughly 100,000 Miles. Beside being used, rubber does degrade slowly from disuse, 50,000 miles as a first point for inspection seems about normal (then check again every following service, then replace at any sign of wear) - i'd rather fork out a bit for a cambelt change and have my mind at peace, than risk it for a biscuit and potentially total the engine on the premise of "well some bloke on the internet says hes on his original cambelt after 200,000 miles, so mine must be fine for the same". It's probably still a good idea to check it every now and again, it's easy enough to take the top part of the timing cover off. As for spark plugs, if you're getting any sort of lumpiness at idle, it's time to change em. Instead of the usual OEM plugs (NGK), i went for the Denso IXU line, given i'm running hybrid turbo i went one stage colder (IXU24), but for a standard or stage 1 car, the IXU22 is the perfect replacement. Given that they're iridium tips, should last longer than the NGKs too. Avoid Bosch plugs. Brake fluid is an essential thing to replace. A friends Rover 25 was suffering from awful brakes, one caliper was seized and the other side was bare metal! We replaced the seized caliper, and put in new pads and discs all round but the brakes were still pretty trash, figured we'd put the spare brake fluid to good use and flush the whole system, what came out was practically black! First test after a full flush and bleed, it went from having to stamp on the brakes to get any form of braking to stamping on the brakes and almost going through the windscreen!

Looks like i'm getting a new house then! These gearboxes have synchromesh on all gears except for reverse (it's the good old dog engagement type, and that's why you get people going "ohmagerd sometimes reverse gear won't go in unless i lift the clutch for a moment, my gearbox must be broke and this car is the worst thing ever made" - because the teeth just happen to be aligned in a way that it won't engage..) 1st and 2nd are double synchronised, to quote from the 02T gearbox workshop guide/manual: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_237_d1.pdf That will have an effect that makes 1st and 2nd a bit clunkier to shift into. I have found that the gearbox likes to be shifted with a big more weight to the throw. Trying to shift it really gently and lightly results in a clunky shift.

I bought FAG parts; Front: 713610470 Rear: 713610490 What was already on the car both front and rear was identical, FAG branded and everything.

6Q0 407 623 E That's the part number for the protective ring. It should clip firmly over the end of the driveshaft, if it's not clipped firmly it will rub against the sensor (destroying it slowly) and not protect the ring from dust/dirt. Happened with mine when Skoda did mine, wasn't too happy but they reimbursed me the cost of a new abs sensor and wheel bearing so i can't entirely complain lol.

The ABS magnetic ring is part of the wheel bearing, since the sensor looks like that, i would assume dirt/grime has gotten behind the protective cover and has destroyed both the sensor and the ring. Wheel bearings are ~45 a piece and fitting usually around 50.

The notchiness is just how synchromesh engagement gearboxes roll. You can run thinner oil, which will make the synchro's match each shafts rpms and engage quicker, but you will increase wear on everything as it'll be less protected. Double clutching with some rev matching (and making sure you're fully pressing the clutch pedal) almost completely eliminates any notchiness. Applying more pressure to the shifter as you shift will help it move in quicker too but obviously it won't make it go away.

This one only needs a breather filter, fresh air goes in this bit from the filter housing. The foam covered pipe that goes into the side of the turbo is the bit what needs a catch can.

The Rapid is MQB based, like the Golf 7/7.5 that's been around as long if not longer. The mk5 polo and mk3 fabia are PQ26. Mk6 polo (AW) and Fabia MK4 are fully MQB. It can probably be modified to fit with the standard air inlet thing, but that's fairly closed off and restrictive, so that'd need modification (or something custom making like im doing 😉) for it to be worthwhile or you'd be better off having the airbox just pull air in from the bay, in which case you're spending a lot of money and only using half the kit and not even using the half you are using as it was intended anyway.