Shim

Ah-ha, thanks. What I have found out this afternoon from Skoda is that you need to check which company made your wiper assembly ie, Valeo or two other manufacturers. The parts dept have a selection of linkages for these three units, left and right hand, and they range in price from around £4 to around £8. They are all stock items. No issues with the mk1 skoda but plenty with mk 2's & 3's. They do have a mk1 linkage in stock but they tell me it has been on the shelf for a very long time! Super helpful stores. So the Wipex I posted is a little over priced.....I'll let y'all know how I get on as the car with the broken wiper is due back soon and I will acquire the relevent parts when I know which to order. Shim.

Hello Mr mrgf, Love the input that you can find ten for a fraction of the price......... Now I'm sitting here doing my research and I can't find anything beyond a X3 spring clip for £11 deal. Possibly your London location means the local vehicle parts place will have X10 but here in rural East Anglia there simply isn't this opportunity! I'm quite content though to have an 'emergency' repair to hand delivered to my door for £5-.😎 What I have found is a replacement link-arm kit from Wipex which may do a better repair than the actual Skoda part. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172730942012 😉 Anyways, hope this info helps as there is nothing worse than wiper issues. I'm going to ring Bickerton Skoda which seem to have become Rainworth Skoda in the morning for a price comparison. My Mk1 Cortina wipers, back in the day were occasionally operated by string. Quarterlights were a godsend. My Series 1 LR had a 'manual' mode on each individual wiper motor, but then the roads were a lot less busy! Remedy was to get a Morris minor wiper rack fitted and ended up with a proper 'park' too.😃 Shim

My son has just called me to say that his NS wiper has ceased working. I've just read this thread on Skoda fabia wiper issues. His is a Mk2 1.6 TDi. He's a long way away so he'll have to wait 'till he's back home and able to get his car into my shed to be 'looked at'. What I have found on 'tinternet is this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-Windscreen-Wiper-Motor-Linkage-Link-Rod-Repair-Clip-1999-2014-/252811197950 Which folk may find useful..... cheers, Shim.

From one of Mr Chapmans joint ventures into making a Ford Cortina MK1 & Mk2 go fast........Had a green stripe........My misspent yoof! Shim.

It goes in either of the top two g-box bolt holes & acts as a stopper on the ring-gear so you can easily undo/do-up the clutch pressure plate bolts. Multi use tool, fits any manual vehicle ;-) Shim.

Don't let age put you off, ever! Yes to a good garage if you're unsure, as a good garage will look after its clients. Shim.

I have a 40 year old 'fly-wheel tool' that is almost a necessity when doing anything on a clutch pressure plate/fly-wheel. Easily made, simple & very effective. Here's a couple of pictures of it. Shim

Yup, Mk2. Just soooo much work for such a little repair! I suppose I now know how a dash is fitted.......... Next thought process is a Mk1 TDi & do I repair or scrap, but that's another story.... Shim

No it isn't a VRS, just either a 1.4 MPi or 1.4 16V. Never had a problem with the subframe mind, if you can lower the NS of your engine on the aforementioned, the g-box drops out.....Supported by your trolley jack. Really, undoing the subframe isn't the end of the world though, just a few more undo's & it just hangs there. Care to re-align on the clean spots is important. As to the slave, if it needs more spannering then so be it.....As long as you are confident to undertake the work then go-for-it......'tis only time. Worst jobs so far on a Fabia are; Removing the whole dash as when a 'Climate-controlled-heater-fan' packs up as that's what you've got to do. There's no little green resistor to be replaced, pleasantly situated unter the passenger side air bag, NOT. Replacing the EGR thingumybob. Fiddly & V time consuming.....G-box is only weight! So with care please. Shim

Drive up onto the ramps. Crack off wheel nuts & Jack up each side & put axle stands under. Use wheels & some lumps of wood as a safety feature further back. Crack off the drive shaft bolts on the g-box flange end. Remove air filter, battery & gear linkage. Remove slave cylinder complete. Now I have a 1" x 1" bar that sits on wooden wedges (wrapped in gaffer tape) in the gutter formed by the wings plus a wriggly roofing hook & a short piece of chain to support the engine. Easy to make from bits & pieces but important. This supports the engine when you have removed the NS support bracket. Crack off all the g-box bolts & lower the engine as far as you can & the g-box will come out. I support it on a trolley jack. Remove old clutch & hoover all the dust out from the flywheel. Fit new release bearing, new clutch & allign with a SP tool or similar. Now comes the hard bit, poking the g-box back. I cheat & now have a chain-fall attached to a scaffold frame but I have done it with said trolley jack in the past on my MPI. Just takes more time fiddlin'. Re-fit g-box linkage (when you have re assembled it & you'll have a slick shift & wonder why you didn't do this years ago!) Re-assemble the remaining bitz, paying attention to the tightening sequence of the drive shaft bolts & you've got your car going again for not a lot of £'s. Can't remember if I took the first exhaust section off or not.....Sorry! Shim

I have just replaced the EGR on my 2010 Fabia 1.6TDI. Exactly the same symptoms as the OP, in limp mode. So here's the short story; P0407 code Genuine but re-conditioned VAG EGR to my door £168. 2 year warranty with upgraded circuit board. Car up on ramps then remove wheels & get as high as possible but not too high so reaching inside the rear of the engine becomes a balancing act. I have a hop-up for this which gives me a 200mm advantage. Vehicle supported on axle stands & mining timber for extra safety. Plenty of lights! Nice piece of carpet on the floor for comfort. Remove belly-plate by undoing the x9 torx screws. Un-couple centre section clamp on the exhaust, disconnect track rods, undo steering rack (x4 bolts) undo subframe bolts. Disconnect pipework & LAMBDA sensors, exhaust rubbers & remove the DPF unit from the turbo having undone the clamp & the angled support bracket from the engine block. This procedure is not so easy but with care you can push the subframe forward to twist & remove this piece of the exhaust. It has this lump on one end & has to fit through a small gap! Then drain the coolant from the feed pipes to the EGR unit. Removing the air flow pipes helped here. Check with a torch for wiring joiners & their routes as they are not happy being pulled. Photo these if you are unsure if you can remember later. They are mostly pretty obvious though. Remove the two little by-pass exhaust sections along with the turbo return pipe. The one that goes up to the cylinder head is very fiddly, many cuts.... Removing the air filter & associated pipework helps. You can lubricate the gear selector linkage at this moment. The oil feed pipe to the turbo can be disconnected from the feed end & moved out of the way, leaving it still connected at the turbo (remember x2 new copper 'O' rings later. £0.48p from the local ag store). Disconnect the water pipes & undo the X4 Torx bolts that hold the EGR to the engine block & any others that need removing that I've forgotten about. The two studs in the block can also be removed & I believe these are designed to do just this to make life a little easier. Remove EGR in a similar fashion to the DPF by a twist & ease. Re-fit all in reverse to above. Not forgetting to re-fit the little heat jacket to the EGR vacuum unit (two poppers) Re-fill with coolant. I used ebay for the SS gaskets. I needed x1 for the small pipes as there are x2 in the box & x1 turbo to exhaust gasket from the same supplier. Now I zeroed the electronics using an Autel MD 808pro scanner & ran the engine up to temperature for an hour or so, not forgetting to keep an eye on the coolant in its round nylon reservoir. Took vehicle for a test run, I'm going on a 100 miler soon just to make sure all's well, no more limp mode. Yaaaay! That's it. Now I'd be pushed to do this in five hours but perhaps with a nice two post ramp the job may be a little easier. You'll need 1/4 drive Torx & associated bars & ratchet. 3/8 similar with a nice breaker bar. The odd 1/2 drive. A 27mm (1 1/16") combi spanner or socket for the oil return pipe. A good selection of metric sockets in 1/4 & 3/8 drive. Similar combi spanners from 12mm through to 27mm. Plenty of good clean rags. Shim

The difference between the mk1 & mk2 metal thickness is considerable. looking at my mk2 estate tailgate today whilst sorting the wiper motor I saw rust in the usual places (around the number-plate lights & lock handle). Note this is with the tailgate card removed. Not really much I can do except get the blow-torch out, warm & dry the area & cover the area with grease plus the WD 40 can to spray into the cracks from the inside. Too cold for waxoil but that's planned for summertime.

I have a 2010 1.6 Fabia estate with window issues on the drivers side. Followed this & other threads. Diagnosis was fairly straightforward having read other folks problems with broken wires inside the rubber boot. I did check the switch first as the passenger window was working on its own switch but not on the drivers side switch. Yes speaker removal is good to make removal of the entire loom somewhat easier. There's four broken wires inside the boot & nearly all the others have splits in showing the copper core. Dilemma..........to repair, resulting in a mish-mush of wires, japanese bulet connectors & other associated future problems. after all this has lasted a decade until now. Solution was to take the part number from said loom, call Skoda UK & buy a new loom which should last another ten years! This should arrive by Wednesday next week on a 3 day delivery from Skodas main warehouse. Fit & forget.