Alasdair1

Think from memory you have to keep and hold key turned towards front and then rear of car when pressing lock/unlock buttons. Tried it on my Seat but didn't work as the transponder chip was bad. As a last resort maybe a chat with an autolock smith. They may be able to check system and perhaps delete imobilser for you to get you going again. I suspect though removing imobilser may be an insurance problem. Alasdair

Not sure exactly where in citigo. Read its above the fuse box but difficult to see. You could try resync the key. I think the citigo is different to fabia so not sure how. Did find this on Ai so ??? but worth a go Roll down the driver's window (to ensure you don’t get locked out). Manually lock the driver's door using the physical key blade. Turn the key toward the front of the car and press and hold the Unlock button on the fob for about 5–10 seconds. Turn the key toward the back of the car and press and hold the Lock button for 5–10 seconds. Take the key out, get into the vehicle, and insert it into the ignition. Turn the ignition to position 2 (dash lights on, but do not start the engine) for a few seconds, then turn it off. I assume that all fuses in engine bay including the strip fuses in front of battery are all good. Not sure what else to try Alasdair.

Not sure on the citigo but might be BCM related? If its failing/corosion then it could put on imobilzer as I believe that the imobilzer/security systems use BCM for imobilzer Alasdair

My SEAT dealer wanted £100 plus vat to plug it in with no guarantee they could fix it. Plus if it needed an ECU and reprogramming reckon would cost more than the car was worth so told them not to bother plus the AA had scanned it previously and no codes but got as far as imobilser problem but couldnt access it either so I got it recovered home. As said once battery was flat and it was left for a few months it seemed to cure itself. Alasdair

Not sure but maybe the old EGR was faulty and the new one may need programmed/settings? Think you can use VCDS to get car to perform it. Pulled this from Ai so may be wrong but worth a try, How to Program the New EGR (Using VCDS/VAG-COM) You can easily complete this using VAG diagnostic tools like VCDS. [1, 2] Prerequisites: Ensure the ignition is ON, the engine is OFF, and battery voltage is above \(12.5\text{ V}\). Go to [01 - Engine]. Go to [Meas. Blocks - 08] and select Group 074. Click [Go!]. Select [Switch to Basic Settings]. Wait for the adaptation status in the 4th box to change from "Run" to ADP OK. Once successful, return to measuring blocks and exit the controller. [1]

If SAFE is displayed then I reckon imobiliser is stuck on. Had same problem with old SEAT as I used a bad key fob which I assume transponder chip had given up. Couldn't get imobilser to go off afterwards even with good key. Seat garage said they may have to reprogramme ECU/imobilser at quite a cost as codes etc would have to come from SEATEurope and maybe a new ECU. I ended up getting another car and left old Seat in my carpark. Eventually battery went flat and when I charged it up to try it again it worked for some unnown reason. Maybe disconnect battery for a longer time (overnight or more) and see if it helps. Also check any fuses related to security etc. You could also try and resync key fob with car. Also try key in ignition and turn till dash lights are on but dont crank and leave for 15-20 mins. This can sometimes resync key with imobilser. Alasdair

Fair comment Pete. Cant do any harm though. Alasdair

You could try a tank of supreme diesel and some additive like wyns or forte egr cleaner. It may help. Alasdair

Years ago I blanked mine on my old toyota and had no problems without any ecu adaptation. Not sure if its possible with skoda engines/ecu unless theres a software change in the ECU. On my 1.9tdi bxe its on the top of the engine at rear . Still not brilliant access to get at securing bolts but doable. I take it on the 2.0tdi its hidden somewhere. Alasdair

Could be failing diaphram but more likely gunged up with oily gunk. My 1.9tdi had EML on/limo mode and fault code for EGR. When I took it off there was so much black gunk it was stuck solid. Cleaned it and no more problems. On the 1.9tdi there is an EGR cooler with another plastic vacuum operated valve. Not sure on the 2.0tdi but on my old Seat with same engine had same code for bad EGR but it was the plastic one on the EGR cooler that was causing code as it was sticking. From memory insufficient EGR flow. Alasdair

Not sure but think there may be one in engine bay fuse box thats for compressor as well as perhaps a relay but worth checking them anyway as they may have blown if the compressor is working harder. Chances are the AC has shut down due to low pressure in system. Alasdair

Sounds like an airlock somewhere but it could be a number of things or a combination. The coolant warning, if the coolant level is ok and it still persists try scraping the two prongs in the expansion tank. At the same time check that there is no silicone bag in there as they can burst and clog matrix etc. From memory the tank should have Mit Silicone on it if it has. The fact that its losing coolant and the tank seems to overflow may be due to a bad waterpump letting air into system or head gasket failure which is over pressurizing system. Check for air/exhaust bubbles in expansion tank with lid of and engine running. The fact that the temp isnt reaching 90deg could be a stuck/clogged thermostat. Alasdair

I read that if the pressure drops too low it disables AC compressor. It could be needing a recharge but it could also be a faulty pressure sensor. If the recharge doesn't work then I would look at replacing sensor although not sure if you can replace sensor without another recharge. Also check any relevant fuses for AC first. Alasdair

The steering problem etc could be a bad battery especially if its been flat for too long. Normally warning lights go out when turned to full lock and also driven. A low or poor battery tends to cause all manner of faults. The radio may come out of safe mode once its been driven for a while and the squeaking could be a back plate just touching disc or as you say a slight binding from lack of use. Check the handbrake is actually releasing rear calipers as the handbrake levers on caliper have a tendency to seize and cause binding on rear. Alasdair

If it does it stationary that rules out drive shafts/cv joints. It may be the top mount that is failing. Get someone to listen to the top mount while turning wheel. Alasdair

If its black smoke its normally lack of air or too much diesel/bad injector/bad injector pattern. When was the airfilter changed last plus it might be worth getting it scanned with vcds in case there's a random fault code stored. You could try changing air filter and run some injector cleaner plus a tank of supreme diesel through it to see if it improves. Alasdair

Sorry cant hear sound. Can you describe it or make a louder recording. I would assume if it was power steering fluid it would do it turning left as well plus does it do it while stationary? Alasdair

Halfords do a loctite windscreen/mirror adhesive for around £6 plus there are a few others online. Last windscreen I saw replaced didn't have the bracket on the new screen. The windscreen replacement company (think it was autoglass glued the original back on. Think it may have been a Nissan. As said if they don't normally fail then reckon warranty should cover it as it shouldnt have failed. Alasdair

The voltage reading at terminal 30 I think is battery voltage so at 12.109V seems to be low and will probably drop further when cranking which may be affecting starting etc. I may be wrong but maybe battery is low and could do with a check/charge. Alasdair

I did have one fail once as the front one was badly coroded/loose and not held on by much. The MOT guy said he wasnt allowed to remove it himself but if I ripped it off he would pass it. Alasdair

Those symptoms point to maybe a blockage somewhere. Wonder if the cat is ok or if some of the dpf ended up in exhaust somewhere. Alasdair

Have had cars pass MOT for years without them. As long as the discs are good and brakes work it should pass. Alasdair

Think the front are replaceable without hub removal but rear require hub off. My old mk2 was the same. Horrible squealing noise and when I tried to push backplate away from disc it disentegrated. Never bothered replacing it as the other side was missing. Didnt cause me any problems without them. Was going to do it if I had to replace a bearing but bearings outlasted the car which died due to corrosion. Alasdair

Hopefully a scan will ping something up and also hopefully its a one of or minor. If there are no codes then maybe VCDS as it can pick up codes that some scanners miss. Alasdair