Swervin_Mervin

That's brilliant thank you!

Holy thread resurrection Batman! Been Googling about the silica bag header tank issues and this thread came up. I think our March 2019 Superb 272 has the twin-walled header tank. Is someone able to let me know part number or direct me to where I can get a replacement single-walled tank without the bag? And from reading I assume the coolant will need changing to G12 Evo from the G13 that's in it?

Cheers chap. It was the EPB that I was worried about to be fair! My thinking was to take one pin out at a time to clean and re-grease, but wasn't sure if I'd need to retract the EPB. I don't have VCDS or the like (yet) Mind you, I got an update from the wife last night that a warning light had come on now so I'm wondering whether there's more to it than just the pins afterall.

Hi all Just wondering whether anyone has done the above. Got a grumbling from the NSR and it sounds to me like it's probably just the sliders/pins that need a re-greasing. Rumbles at low speed braking and whap-whaps just as you set off with that sort of noise that suggests a dragging pad. Car is a '19 272. It's a long time since I've had to do this on a car, but if it is just the above then I'm loathed to fork out for the labour for someone else to do it. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

Ta for that. Nice and handy location 😂 Maybe I'll leave it for the garage to look into first to see if it's throwing any error codes.

Had this problem flag up on the M6 yesterday evening. We were up near Penrith and the weather was grim so I assumed it must be some water ingress. However, still no joy. Looking at hte image above, are the control units in the rear bumper? Or do we think they're mounted towards the front of the rear arches, perhaps behind the arch liners?

That f*****g rear wash wipe is such a turd design. I have to clean ours 2-3 times a year and it winds me up far more than it should 😂. It's dead easy to do though. Plastic cap off, and then you can see the head of the sprayer. Thin screwdriver and you can lever the head off the base of the arm/motor. Use fine pins, compressed air or just stick the nozzle end in your mouth and try blowing through. Then whilst that's off check the supply isn't blocked by trying the wash wipe which should hopefully fire straight up in the air with no sprayer head on. The first time this happened I had half the tailgate apart trying to solve it, before I realised it's the removable sprayer head that gets gunked up.

Might sound like a daft question, but is there a guide anywhere that shows what's typically required in terms of services items by age/mileage? Our 272 will be 5yrs old in March and I'd like to start getting an understanding of what will be needed and when, now that it's out of its service agreement. Reading enough horror stories about coolant silica bags (WTF nonsense is that?!), DSG services, sunroof services etc.!

That's great thanks Marky! Exactly what I was looking to hear. My worry with B4 would be that they'd be too much like OEM and we wouldn't dial out any of that softness. Sounds like B6 is the way to go then. Anyone know, just for comparison purposes, what a replacement damper costs from Skoda? Non-dcc?

Hi - yep I did! I can't see any posts where anyone's actually said they've fitted the B4 dampers, only the B6, hence my query.

I'll take that as a no then! I just want to be sure that diving straight into going with the B6 isn't going to leave me with earache - this is the wife's car! She's never been that happy about the wallowiness, but loves the comfort, hence she's keen to try changing things to get it spot on.

I know the subject of Bilsteins has been done to death, but I haven't found much about whether anyone has fitted B4s and whether they've found improvement in the control and dynamics. We've a 2019 272 Sportline Hatch, non-DCC and it's developed a leaky n/s front damper. Hence we're looking at options to upgrade. We want to retain the relative comfort, but just get rid of that classic VAG sloppiness. I've seen elsewhere people suggesting that B6 can be a bit harsh, hence wondering whether anyone has tried the B4s and found that it's improved things. Or are they really a like for like with OEM?

Cheers guys. Seems like a bit of a design flaw then! Any tips on how to get them out? I've not worked on the Skoda at all before so am completely unfamiliar with it.

Went to wash the car yesterday and behold: A big long streak of algae behind the top of the lens. Tried to get a toothbruch in there but didn't even get close to touching it. Anyone else had this? Am I going to have to pop them out to clean or is there another way that anyone's tried?

I wouldn't waste your money on wheels - you'll still have the wallow, only marginally more so, albeit you may improve bump absorption. You'd be better spending it on some better suspension imo. The Superb is a wallowy old thing, and IME all VAG I've driven have had this weird ability to combine both a rolly-poly ride with rubbish bump absorption. If the wife keeps hers (272 Sportline+) beyond the PCP period then I'll be strongly recommending some aftermarket upgrades to the shocks and springs.

Ok that's interesting, thanks. It wasn't running when I tested - just had the ignition switched on. I think I need to get the wife to sit in the car and activate it whilst I'm outside looking at it - just got my 5yo's take on it at the moment, and the remnants by the time I get back there to take a look! 😄

Hi all. Went to sort rear washers on our hatch, as they'd not been working for a while. Noticed that it seemed to be dribbling out of the tailgate near the opening switch. Stripped the interior trim back and took a look but everything looked A-ok. So removed the washer jet nozzles and gave that a good clean out. Checked the wash without that attached and sure enough a good height on the spray! Now have 2 working jets again (although I think it's a dump setup). However, my boy noticed that it was still truckling out near the switch underneath. So anyone had this before or know whether there's an issue with these? I haven't actually seen where it's coming out, just the remnants trickling down the numberplate. I assume there isn't supposed to be some sort of spray back there to do with the reversing camera or something?

Hi guys - long time no post and sadly not posting for good reasons! Unfortunately our Superb was recently bumped in a car park with no cctv and the perp obviosuly did one. They've nudged the rear door panel in and, whilst it's popped back out, it's clearly got a few low and high spots now. Worst though is they've dented the rear arch - this shows some of it but there's also a dent lower down nearer the sill: I was hoping this would PDR out, but having spoken to my trusty detailer he reckons that whilst he could get the scuffs out he's confident that his PDR guy won't be albe to get the dents out to a good standard as the access is going to be too difficult. Hence I'm looking for a decent bodyshop in the NW that can sort this. It's <3yo on a PCP so would we need to go somewhere Skoda approved in order to ensure the paint/corrosion warranty isn't affected? I'm rarely impressed by the work of any bodyshop - last time wasn't so bad but we actually went to BMW's own (we had a 1 series at the time) to make sure the manufacturer bodywork warranty wasn't affected and the guys there actually did a fantastic job.

Sadly not no. I just can't get a decent shot of it without reflections blowing out the image. I've had another look today and now convinced it's stone chips, despite the odd nature of some of them. Bit disappointing on a 12mo car that doesn't see the motorway. Mind, I've been tending to the chips on my 14yo 125k mile 330i and the paint is appallingly thin! You really have to watch it when flatting back the repair.

It's nothing to do with the ceramic - it's a defect in the paint itself. It's only on the bonnet as well from what I can see. It could simply be stone chipping but it looks odd for that.

Our 272 Sportline in Business Grey is just over 12mo old. Think it's on around 12k, with very few of those on the motorway. We had a paint protection detail done literally the day we collected the car, with a ceramic coating. I washed it a couple of weeks ago and used some Megs Liquid Hybrid Ceramic on it which I'd just bought. I noticed that on the bonnet there appear to be a few little pock marks - not like normal stone chips though. These are tiny (1-2mm) and look slightly spider-y - small centre with feathering out from there. It's really hard to describe and impossible to photograph. With a normal chip you tend to see a "chunk" of the paint go, but these are nothing like. I'd say something to the garage when it goes in for its first service in 2 weeks, but I'm not convinced the respponse would be anything other than "that's wear and tear I'm afraid". Which it may well be, and I'd accept that - it's just the fact that the pock marks are so unusual that has me wondering whether they really are from stones or whether there's some sort of paint defect.

I think this got lost to some degree in my "first thoughts" thread so am re-posting as I'd be keen for thoughts/experience from everyone So, this last week identified another "issue". When you have the electric tailgate, is there any way of opening/closing it manually? i.e. not powered? 1 - if you want to try out to see if something in the boot is going to fit without catching the glass/trim, it's useful to be able to lower the tailgate by hand - in this case it was a garden chair that needed to be returned and I didn't want the leg going through the glass. 2 - if you're in a car park with a low ceiling height, you don't want the tailgate just wazzing itself straight up! Had to do some hanging on to stop the tailgate in the 2nd scenario! And also noticed if you try to pull it down it starts moving under its own steam. Cue lots of beeping because I was stopping it - it didn't sound very happy at the manual intervention