J.R.

Just look at those supershonky fixings supposed to retain them in position, its not a case of if they come loose but when, the outcome is very predictable, they will do a good impression of a leading brake shoe or ratchet pawl. Muppets and their customers are double Muppets.

Ignore it, its written by a civil servant correctly interpreting the fine details of the withdrawal agreement and nothing tyo do with traffic laws in Europe. I am shocked that anyone would believe that traffic police in Europe are going to bother themselves with what symbol is on a number plate or whether or not additional stick on country plates have been used let alone become stressed about it and I live in a country where hoop jumping is a national sport. If you really are concerned then tape over the country identifier that you believe will result in a fine and dont bother with anything else. I don't envy you with the grass cutting!!!!

Is it boosting and performing correctly under full boost before going into limp mode? It might simply be one of the hose couplings not engaged correctly and springing apart under boost or missing its sealing ring, it sounds like the intercooler etc has been off during the repairs.

Like anyone in another EU country is going to give a four X about whether you have a sticker or not or what it says.

I hope that you bought a bottle of the clear coat as well. The proper Skoda/VAG touch up kits are reasonable value, come with both base and clear coats and have a very handy needle scaler built into the lid. Or at least they used to.

Your country is an EU member and held the Presidency till June this year, you simply need to apply for the EU certificate of conformity using the link that I supplied you, this will list all the wheel and tyre sizes that the vehicle is homologated for, these are valid for all EU countries. However if you wish to line the pockets of a company that is going to do just that whilst claiming that they are "homologating" the wheels that you wish to fit then go ahead, knock yourself out!

So much for my "Oxford"

I am pretty sure that it was these people that I used: https://www.crashdata.co.uk/Default.asp I can't recall the timing but I worked out they had to have reset it and got it back to the couriers within a couple of hours. Very very happy with the service, if you do find a DIY way I would love to hear of it, there is always anxiety when sending away a critical component, at least dealing with these people you will know that in my case at least they did not try anything on and went way beyond my expectations.

There are plenty of companys that can reset the crash data on the Airbag Control Module, mine was done for £30 including return postage and was back with me in 48 hours. I can't recall who it was, they may have been in Oxford or I may have invented that, I just googled and chose the cheapest that had excellent reviews, I think their name described what they do. Module is located on top of the transmission tunnel well forward where it is protected from being hit by feet or any other object.

If you look at your photograph you can see splashes of diesel all over the lower bodywork, those will have overflowed the filler neck having overcome the capacity of the drain tube so I definitely would expect to see a patch from the drain tube in that exact position.

That is normal if any of the fuel splashes back into the filler neck. MK1 and MK2 Octavias were very slow fillers and the pump would frequently cut out especially if there was not enough defoamer in the fuel. Filling to the brim and then some I always leave an incontinence patch like that on the forecourt.

Well it is doing its job of not allowing any EGR perfectly without any side effects or fault codes as it always has done. I do however seem to be having very frequent regenerations often after long runs towing a very heavy trailer when I would expect passive regens to occur. I cant say what the frequency is because I keep leaving my VCDS in another country, an app is out of the question for me.

The tracks clean up easily enough but for such a fragile part with the potential of bits taking flight its not really worth the risk unless you are stuck somewhere. This type of fault is happening more and more where switches are no longer switching the load but just a small control current to the relevant canbus module which in turn operates relays, they dont exhibit symptoms of the contacts oxidising and once the signal falls beneath a certain threshold it is ignored by the recieving module.

I wont make the same mistake again.

McCain?

Its a big IF! - I'm glad you made the "obviously" conditional

Yes and yes, why do you ask?

Line 101 in the Service Receptionists Bullsh1t manual

Mericans not wearing seat belts was the reason for the initial introduction of the first airbags, the steering wheel ones. A correctly restrained driver or passenger gets no benefit from the airbag in front of them except in real hard impacts when the bulkhead moves backwards. I have not seen a steering rack mounted in front of the axle for decades now and steering columns have been collapsible for even longer than that. That is not to say that they could or should be removed, together with all the other rapidly procreating airbags they form part of a total system to cope with many collision eventualities.

It sounds to me like a dry or fractured sodered joint on the instrument cluster, cheap and quick to remove the cluster and reflow the joints while waiting for the hopefully not required ignition switch. If you dont want to do that then you could jump the ignition switch contacts to be absolutely sure that you are following the correct diagnosis. You would need the key in the ignition as normal (turned to the correct position) for the immobiliser, all you would be doing is giving a helping hand to the suspected high resistance contacts.

As an aside, the steering wheel airbag is primarily intended to save the foolish from themselves, to protect people in an impact who have chosen not to wear their seatbelt (or to sit on it or whatever they do to stop the bing-bongs) so it most definitely would work when the belt is not buckled, that is its raison d'être.

Remove your one, hold it upside down and thwack it against a hard but not damaging surface (say wood rather than brick), the food crumb or whatever is playing tricks in there will most likely be ejected and it will function correctly. As a stopgap giving it the good news in situ might resolve the problem temporarily.

Another convincing sounding made up Germanic name, I bet you they are not actually made by TMD friction if indeed they actually make the pads for the other companise that you quote, but are a budget line bought from China with their branding, good business sense on their part, if the customer cannot be convinced to pay the premium for their product then by offering a budget option no better than any of the other crap but carrying their name then they dont lose the sale.

I have bought discs and pads as a set a few times from the various EU companies under the Autodoc umbrella, they are all the same outfit with various different trading names in each EU country. The discs I have been pleased with but not so the budget pads, whilst they all carry very convincing German branding and lettering closer inspection reveals that they are all made in China which is probably also the case of a lot of the name brands, all one can hope for is that their reputation is important enough for them to continue to supply quality parts but once they are bought out for their name & reputation the new owners may capitalise by selling the cheapest rubbish at the premiumprice that the brand name still commands. Back to the pads, the first rubbish set had some obscure but German sounding name, the second set which I only removed a week ago were allegedly Delphi but quite possibly it was mispelt to trick people, again made in China. All of them failed to inspire in braking performance and feel and the discs started scoring very quickly, both sets, they were all replaced with genuine Ferodo Eco Friction pads which not only performed well but removed the scoring from the discs and made them look like new again with a finely machined finish. I only swopped the front ones on the Octavia, on the Yeti I used the Ferodo pads on the front and kept the Delphi ones as spares, I fitted the Delphi on the rears and doing little work the braking was OK but they got really scored quickly whereas the fronts looked like they had just been surface ground, I am currently towing very heavy trailers for my removal journeys so changed the rears to Ferodo Eco Friction last week, the braking is better although I try to avoid it while towing and the discs are cleaning up. A long posting but I will only use decent branded pads from now on, the cheap ones even if they come free with the discs are a false economy because the disc life will be significantly reduced and the braking performance on the last few sets has been very poor.

From its location I would say that it is the insulation covering the DPF