J.R.

Penalties for not complying with the new rules are likely to vary. Halfords warned that drivers who failed to display their UK badges could be refused entry to some countries. So its new rules (plural) now and not a new law, I might make up a few myself, they will have as much validity. Mind you if thats what Halfords says then it must be true, after all they are the arbiters for the whole of the EU border control and justice systems.

The new rule change however means that the GB sticker will no longer be valid. The update has been outlined by the United Nations, which said it had received “a notification stating that the United Kingdom is changing the distinguishing sign that it had previously selected for display in international traffic on vehicles registered in the United Kingdom, from ‘GB’ to ‘UK’”. Every motorist under the new law will either need to buy the new number plate featuring the letters UK, or make sure they have a sticker displaying the same letters to prevent any punishment. What a complete load of BS. What new law? What punishment? Ain't no new laws or new punishments in the rest of Europe just because the UK has decided that it wants to be known as the UK and not GB.

I am unaware and not much the wiser from the fuzzy photo, I will be able to work it out though at the next refuel, what do you push it with, the nozzle?

There is not a choice of holes to my knowledge

And "I promise that I will pull out in time"

Please explain what USDM means, its not something that I have heard of.

Lets be quite clear before I bang my head against the wall, are you speaking of the range showing on the dash display after filling up or the miles you had achieved on the previous tank of fuel? If the former tell us by what means you believe that it can possibly know?

They were not small, even in the 90's in a standard single garage with stuff stored along one side there was enough room to work on the suspension of or even respray a family car. I did exactly that every weekend. Just compare the dimensions of a 60's 4/5 seat family car with those of even what are laughably called Minis these days, the biggest car then was a MK4 Zephyr/Zodiac/executive but I could still to get one in a single garage and work from both sides to remove the engine for a clutch replacement. I removed the transmission on the Yeti recently for the same job, no way could I have done it in a single garage. Nobody wants to park their cars in them anyway even if they could, most new houses dont come with a garage except for large executive places where they are detached from the property, most will be filled with tat, kids bikes, garden furniture, trampolines etc.

"According to the computer"? Surely you mean the odometer, that is to say that you have driven 20-30 miles further on a tankfull? The predicted range on the dash display will not change whatever fuel you have just filled up with, the vehicle does not know what fuel the tank contains, you could fill with tap water and it would show the same range as had you filled with diesel or petrol.

I was always leaving the fuel cap of my MK1 at filling stations, they were also my first port of call for a replacement, they all have a huge box of them under the counter! On the 3rd or 4th time I found in the box a replacement with the correct screw thread but also a plastic retaining wire with a fixing eyelet on the end, clearly didn't work for the person that lost it, perhaps the fastener had never been fitted, I fitted & retained it to my filler neck and never lost the cap after that. The Yeti has the filler cap on a retainer & I think the MK2 Octavia before it also.

Torsion value is the time (= angular) difference between the signals from the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors.

Don't go to the Lidl at Horley then! No store has parking spaces less than the reglementary sizes, the problem is peoples desire for bigger & bigger vehicles which is usually in inverse proportion to their ability to drive & park them.

You drive a manual transmission car heavy footed?

That is what happens when you top up your tank with less than 5 litres to a full tank, it will have adjusted the average according to the miles you have driven, speed throttle opening etc but the fuel sender will still be registering a full tank and does not realise that it has been topped up. I am sure that a lot of people in the UK will be experiencing this phenomenon at present for the first time I discovered this when I had a 1000km plus overnight journey to make, I brimmed at the fuel station and when I got home topped off from a jerrycan after the foam had settled to give me the maximum range to hopefully get to the destination without stopping to refuel.

Every day is a learning day, I even had to drive my car forwards & shove it into reverse as I doubted myself! Its an 02 something 6 speed, 02M I think and definitely has synchro reverse as did my MK1 & MK2 1.9TDi 5 speed Octavias. Like you I am a fan of the self study guides & have several printed off for reference, something I picked up from that one regarding the cable adjustment - after locking the selector linkage at the gearbox end and releasing the cables it says to have the engine idling while doing the rest of the procedure, this would compensate for any movement on the engine mountings, - simply clever!

I doubt it. Be very carefull if adjusting the cam timing, the tiniest of movement can take it outside of the measured range of torsion value and the stupid VCDS shows that as a zero torsion value, the figure that you were aiming for but a false value. If you are dextrous enough to hit the holy grail of zero torsion value double check by revving the engine, it should show some variation around the zero figure, negative I think, if it doesn't then you have a false zero and are outside of the limits.

Dont go covering the open purple connector above it will you! I would say that an open connector with exposed male pins does not seem correct unless there are no wires connected to them.

What is a VC and DIS please?

Myself I would not be happy with the cure that the OP has chosen, no warnings possible at all now so no longer a real possibility of catastrophic engine failure should there be an oilpump failure, it's now pretty well guaranteed. It's akin to removing the oil pressure warning light bulb, a shame when the wisdom on the forum had probably pinpointed the exact point of the wiring failure.

I found it interesting, is factory applied clear coat not water based these days? I am very rusty having been in a different country from my spray equipment whenever I have needed to do a repair for the last 15 years I have had to make do with 2 pack aérosols and have not yet sprayed water based paints, all my gear is now stored in my removal trailers so it could be a few more years before I can get my hand back in properly.

My MK1 did 325K miles on the original discs, not quite true, a crack developed in one rear so I replaced them both, ithad racked up 188K in 3 years by my chauffeur friend and the brakes were very much solicited in the time that I owned it. The 2 Skodas since then I inherited with corroded discs, one I know had a very pampered life, the other not sure but both had been seaside cars. I hope to keep this one long enough to see if my current relatively low mileage low stress driving regime will actually be kind to the brakes now I have better friction material.

I have remachined many a warped brake disc in the past, I have a lathe, dial guage & mag base for checking on and off the vehicle. Granted they are so cheap to buy these days that it's not really worth the time but olld habits die hard. However it has been more than 15 years since I have measured a disc on a vehicle exhibiting the worst braking judder imaginable to find any measurable warping or run out, it has always been a transfer of pad material (probably unevenly) onto the disc surface and could be remedied by repeated heavy and intense abusive emergency stops. Things have never been the same since asbestos was removed from friction materials and in my case since I stopped driving like the road was my personal racetrack, both would keep the discs & pads in superb condition.

Or care! You will have a long wait. My experience has been with the cheapest of the cheap disks & in recent years they have come bundled with the cheapest of the cheap pads, usually coming from Germany regardless of what country website is used (most all lead back to the Autodoc conglomerate) often with impressive Germanic sounding names but look a little further and they are made in R.P.C. The discs have all been the same excellent quality, its the pads that have been seriously lacking and they have got worse, 5 years ago they would brake OK but would in time would lack stopping power, not lock up to trigger the ABS and develop a terrible shudder that most including myself initially put down to warped discs, they weren't it was transfer of the pad material, they could be brought back by incredible abusive repeated downhill high speed emergency stops. In the last 2 years the pads have lacked initial bite but did not transfer material, lose stopping power or cause vibration, however they really tore up the surface of the discs especially the rears & that rough surface texture would allow rust to take a hold & not be removed by braking. On the last Octavia 2 and this Yeti I very quickly had to change to Ferodo Eco Friction pads which had much better initial bite and after a few thousand kms brought the discs back to a surface ground finish, I only did the fronts as they do most of the braking but on the Yeti the new rear discs were getting really chewed up and rust was present across the whole surface, I have changed them now to Eco Friction but its taking a lot longer for the surface finish to return even though I have been towing some very heavy loads. The last lot of rubbish pads were branded Delphi, I dont think they were counterfeit, I think like all the others they sell good OE equipment and 2 grades of aftermarket offerings on high volume friction materials.

It would be a little over 40 years ago now, being immature & thinking that a flash car was the most important thing in life I was driving a Triumph Stag while living in a housing association bedsit & spending all my disposable cash on fuel. It was winter & snow was on the ground, I noticed a defrosted patch spreading around the vehicle & found to my horror that petrol was leaking from the tank that I had just poured my wages into I very much doubt that it was a full tank but it had swallowed all the money that I had. It was midnight, I had just returned from a night out & had no tools or repair materials with me, I was also concerned that it being a dodgy area someone might accidentally on purpose ignite the lake of fuel. My solution was to drive the car aimlessly all night long & then to the factory when the early shift started to decant what was left & repair the tank.

I havn't watched the video but have done the job myself and nothing could be easier, on my vehicle removing the air filter housing gives better access, a wise precaution the first time but I would do it by feel thereafter.