J.R.

If like me you can find a genuine VAG new old stock aluminium one piece cast concentric release bearing then you can be guaranteed of no future problem, otherwise you are just replacing a failed part with a new one with the same potential failure mode, a ticking time bomb.

Yes but the spring acts on a cam and equally holds the pedal down when there is a hydraulic problem and the clutch return mechanism is not acting on the master cylinder piston to push it back up, after it has risen half way the pedal box spring will then raise it to the top. I am guessing that you have a concentric slave cylinder on a 6 speed gearbox, you will find I have started & contributed to several threads on the subject, I had a very long saga before biting the bullet and doing the big job I had hoped to avoid. A master cylinder change might bring some relief for a while but the problem will get worse and worse in hot weather and heavy traffic, just when you least need the grief, at the end i was having to bleed my clutch twice a day and could not drive more than 30 miles, a lot less if I hit traffic. The fault was air being drawn into the system through an O ring inside the bellhousing where they have made the later plastic concentric slave cylinders in 2 seperate mouldings with an O ring seal that fails through heat and vibration, it never leaks fluid but draws air in. The solution was transmission removal and replace the clutch & DMF at the same time as the flatulent slave cylinder.

You finished your statement with ?? but what is your question?

Your newer model is absolutely not the same animal and cannot be abused in the same way, if you do not interrupt the regens the fan will never come on when you stop, if you carry on as you are it will continue to do so every time and eventually will go into limp mode and you will have to pay the Skoda dealer to carry out a forced workshop regeneration. There is little point in telling you that your vehicle is not suited to your journey profile as its too late, you can however adapt and make the most of an imperfect situation by allowing any regens to complete, I like many others have had to do this during lockdown.

You are interrupting the regens, if you hear the fan is on then continue driving until the regen is completed, otherwise you risk the extra fuel injected post combustion from running down the bores and diluting the engine oil. You can tell while you are driving that a regen is in progress by a change in engine note but the most obviosu indication is that the idle speed will be raised to 950rpm & if you open the window you will hear the fan running. When I say continue driving I mean at above 1600rpm not dawdling along, a fast dual carriageway or motorway run, 5km max will do it under those conditions.

The compressors are not crap and any failure to pump is usually related to something external which would result in a compressor shut down code - pressure sensor etc, mechanical failure of the shear plate or drive hub, or the pressure modulating valve. OK the latter 2 could be described as a crap compressor but both are available as parts, can be replaced in situ and dont need the compressor replacing. There is no point replacing a condensor if the system was correctly leak tested before gassing up.

I dont disagree with your comment about "the only sure fire way" but if the valve was closed then it will not open unless commanded and cannot stick open, if decativated using an emulator like my vehicle then the electrical connection to the EGR valve is removed so it is absolutely impossible for it to subsequently open. Many may not have known that their valves were already stuck open, I checked mine using VCDS before disconnecting it, I have not fitted the blanking plate so that I can quickly reconnect it of required, for fault finding or if it became a problem for our CT (MOT) test.

How are you measuring the MPG, from the maxidot or brim to brim refill mileage? The former can be quite a way out, usually optimistic but not always, it can also be changed by +/- 9% using VCDS. What work had been done prior to the drop in economy? - Cam belt by any chance? There is nothing to be gleaned from the live data printout.

Put the part number into a search engine or E-bay. If you unclip it you will probably see the fault & be able to repair it

There are enough dramatic people out there without having to contend with dramatic oil pressure as well, it is well worth losing in my view!

It is further to walk from the drivers seat.

I cant open the video without jumping through hoops for Google, they already badger me on my phone to give them my date of birth, - yeah right, they can whistle for that. Its possible that the gears are turning but the shaft not, the measuring blocks should tell you what is going on, maybe try changing the set temp to something very different and use the same setting for the passenger one, maybe maximum heat and see if they both have the same temperature, then go down in steps of a few degrees, that should tell you something without the work up of VCDS. I cant accept the assertions that this problem can be caused by low refrigerant, I would expect that to affect both sides equally unless it favors the passenger. What temp is coming out of the rear vents? I think they are slaved to the passenger setting.

It was true 20 years ago when Skoda was the first to get the new generation of engines and transmissions and the reasoning coming from someone at the top the biggest UK vehicle consultancy group (not a mechanic for another car maker) was the one you give. Last time I looked it was definitely no longer true for the latest generation of engines/transmissions but it could be true for the BS covetted by the smartphone generation, it makes sound commercial sense.

And I think it gives misleading information (no doubt where the person swallowed the BS of the repairing garage) that the the car has a dual heater matrix half for the drivers side the other for the passengers, to my knowledge and having removed mine its one matrix and the control valves blend heated and coooled air to get the desired left & right side temperatures. Happy to be proved wrong but once something is written, accepted and oft repeated its very hard to disabuse people of the notion.

You need to look at the measuring blocks directly beneath the ones that you have ticked, those for the right temperature flaps, I suspect it is stuck in the hot position. AFAIK there is only one post evaporator temperature sensor which whould be less than your value if the left hand side is cooling.

That was my initial thought Langers after inheriting a module professionally fitted (= butchered wiring) on an Octavia but I thought of two reasons why it had been done that way, the hazard flashers as Wino mentioned and also side/parking lights. I could see a breakdown situation where the choice would be either unsafe and a danger to oncoming traffic or safe but insecure with the keys in the ignition. Actually the professional wont have been using any logic as it was hardwired unfused direct to the battery terminal , that one had a significant current draw, the ones I have used since then much less so.

There is absolutely no valid reason for you to go to the time, cost and expense for your use. The modern high impedance towing relays work faultlessly but are only as good as the butcher who connects them to your existing wiring. I have fitted many over the years and the modern ones incorrectly described as Canbus compatible are far better than the old ones where you had to push coils of wire around a core to get the audible warning to work. The only downside, and its a tiny one, is that the relay draws power 24/7 and will reduce the autonomy of your vehicle battery if you go on a months holiday, they are a lot better than they used to be and many vehicles have a really high parasitic consumption anyway so their effect is minimal. Mine has a low standby consumption and the relay increases it by 30% meaning the autonomy on my larger battery would fall from 6 weeks to a month (all guesstimated figures from memory) I have a switch in the boot to only turn it on when its needed, on the previous vehicle I just removed the fuse.

That would explain why my active regens are taking longer.

Depends on whether your spanner is at 12 O clock or 6 O clock relative to the pedal shaft. Skoda should fit theirs (calipers not pedals) in either of those positions to avoid confusing people

The good thing about the emulator is there is no longer an electrical connection to the EGR so as long as its not stuck open it will remain closed and inoperational, if you end up with an undiagnosed problem like yours the emulator can easily be removed and the EGR connected to operate again, as long as no blanking plates were used.

That is a full Climatronic setup with integrated AC, pressing the ECON button stops the AC.

Blanking it off will generate a fault code and force the engine into limited operating strategy. You need to fit an EGR emulator/simulator which will also come with blanking plates but which are not needed unless there is a leak or the valve is stuck open. plenty available on ebya for around £99

My last 2 Skodas were silver and the plan view of the estate car icon was absolutely perfect in every detail. Now I have a blue Yeti, am I bothered? - Not enough to sell it and buy a silver one!

You have a silver car and are complaining that the pictogram of your vehicle is silver but not the right silver? It makes all my problems seem trivial now.