J.R.

Brilliant, absolutely brilliant!

If you have stalk buttons or steering wheel controls for the MFD then if you select the miles driven function, then press & hold the button to switch to the long term distance (will be less than 2K) then press and hold it for longer it will reset. Not sure if it also resets the current journey or if you have to do that seperately. I dont think that any trips reset when you refuel but you can do them all manually.

The intention is for people to choose a higher level and pay a lot more for it than the cost to the manufacturer of the upgrades. It is not a case of "removing them" on basic models, the basic model is the standard spec, the cost of tooling up for the higher spec gloveboxes etc is more than justified by the increased profit from people having no choice but to purchase a raft of so called upgrades when all they want is one essential. As someone who ended up with a poverty spec Yeti (no choice it was a good salvage deal) I did not like the open storage compartments but completeley understand why they use that business model. In fact the open compartment which looked really messy with all the trade cards trolley tokens etc that I improved with a MK2 Octavia ashtray lid is open on all the models.

And I am referring to the document that you seek to prove that 19" wheels may be used on your vehicle. https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/red-doc

The document that you are referring to is the EU Certificate of conformity, you can apply direct to VAG for it and they are free of charge. Mine lists all the wheel & tyre combinations that are type approved for the vehicle, it does correspond with the fuel tank flap sticker but that is a universal one for the model and cannot be taken as a definitive document as your vehicle might only be homologated for certain sizes. It would however be very convenient at a roadside check.

My 108hp TDi I had remapped to allegedly 184hp, in truth I think that its the stock VAG 170hp map, it has transformed it in the areas that it was lacking, - towing seriously heavy loads with large wind frontage (dont know the words in English for "prise d'air" and mid range overtakes, those are the only times that the extra power gets used. However as good as I believe I am to be at modulating the control inputs for smooth driving, when I have to nip out of a junction a little bit quick it is difficult to combine swift and smooth power delivery, it only needs practice but its not a practice if you pardon the pun that I engage in for pleasure. Out walking in my UK village home today and being nearly run over several times by impatient yummy mummy types driving huge 4x4's on the pedestrian crossing areas of the traffic calming, which seems to have the opposite effect on them! I noticed that they all seem to launch their weapons like they are staging for a 1/4 mile run and they were all DSG type automatics. I doubt that any of them would be able to drive those vehicles with manual transmissions or in anything but dry grippy conditions without all the 3 letter acronyms keeping them and their victims safe, they certainly would not be able to haul them around at the speeds and accelerations that they do without their intervention that they are probably totally unaware of. So I will concede that if I still drove like I used to, like the roads were my personal racetrack, I would probably prefer my current vehicle to have a DSG gearbox, not least so it would not smell today like someone has puked in it after all my manouevring with the removal trailer around selfish parkers, the same female 4x4 owners, to get on my driveway.

I am also in the minority that wants to drive my car, and to drive it to the best of my abilities, what is being produced these days is aimed at those who want something to drive them around while they engage with their social media or be entertained by infotainment. More fool me though because many people seem to be lapping it up and will put up with no end of incoveniences in the hope that one day these flaky "driver assistance" systems might actually do what they are supposed to.

50:50 shaken in a sealed container, if you dont use it all straight away shake the remainder to mix again before using again.

The fuel consumption at idle is de minimis and not measurable with any accuracy, I think its actually a calculated value based on the outputs from the various engine sensors, almost as much fuel flows back to the tank via the cooler as is delivered from the tank. You should use the values as a comparator only. Regarding the aircon consumption, low refrigerant will take more engine torque than a fully charged system, you do not know what the ambient temperature and required cooling temp was of the other vehicles you cite so do not know how much work the system was doing, also a larger vehicle and/or a larger system capacity will draw more power to cool.

Carlston was not telling anybody to drive on 15" wheels, (and for the record I would be happy to) he suggested using a 15" rim as a go-no/go guage to see what size brake disc was fitted.

'kinell!!!!!!!!!!! If you look at the patches of grey showing through it looks like the Kevin has painted the seat inserts, I reckon he did the same on the door cards and it has either covered better or retained its colour better. Painting or perhaps dieing cloth seats that was never going to end well. Takes me back though, I bought some shiny nylon padded seat covers in the 70's for my HB Viva that looked just like those, well better actually but still sh1te in hindsight.

It will be very interesting to learn how they behave.

Have they seen it yet or are you expecting them to honour their internet valuation?

Then compare that pressure against a chart for R134a with low side pressure against temperature, also check whether the VCDS reading is guage pressure or absolute pressure, I have a feeling that its the latter but can never recall, Wino knows as he posesses a memory, something I am very jealous of him for Also check for a compressor shut down code in VCDS, I think zero means there is not one & the system should be operating, again Wino can confirm. If there is no shut down code (low pressure is one of them) then its likely your fault is a sticking modulating valve, a broken shear plate or stripped splines on the drive hub.

They are made of a special spage age alloy tin foil thats both flexible yet brittle and also corrodes faster than a Fiat, work hardens as well with the flapping around, took years to develop, earlier examples were not as succesfull as some of them were lasting more than 2 years. If the second one is not as corroded and fractured as the first it will be by the time I have finished typing this. They cost only slightly more to buy than the two soft drinks can that they are made from.

Pressure drop is the term you were looking for, like an airplane wing or an aerofoil. Caterhams and Westfields with a full windscreen would all exhibit this effect at speed, hats would levitate no matter how tightly they were scrunched on, also anything loose between driver & passenger, on their laps or in the boot box, 99 times out of 100 they would disappear in a blink of an eye be invisible in the rear view mirrow and several seconds later re-appear where they took off from, it was like they were beamed up & beamed back down again by Captain Kirk.

Do you have an anti-gravity machine? And do the oxygen masks drop down?

Ask me politely and I might consider your request

I think it is an alarm set indication and not one for the immobiliser. From memory the flash rate changes if the interior ultrasonic sensors are disabled using the B pillar switch. The OP probably has a failed alarm unit back up battery & the alarm is not working hence the lack of flashing LED.

That is common to many engines, its usually a valve within the filter so its probably more true to say common to many filters. It is better to have unfiltered oil circulating than oil starvation, the problem really is with a good unblocked filter if the oil pressure relief valve is releasing at too high a pressure or has been modified.

It was written correctly but I understand why you would want to write le postman Pat If I knew who had delivered the letter I would have said Le Facteur or La Factrice but in the absence of that info or if it is irrelevant (for example if it was the system rather than their diligence that got the letter to the right address) then it would be La Poste.

But you can enter a postcode location, what it doesn't allow you to do is select one of the 15 properties within that postcode. Using my postcode would get you to the main town and then you would have to try 11676 different households in the town and the surrounding villages to find your destination. I would love to be directed to within 15 dwellings. And yet La Poste can find me from just my surname and no address on an envelope!!!!

Freudien slip?

Much easier and simpler to fit the £30 relay, it does put any load on the existing wiring (only a tiny sensing current) and you do not have to get involved in coding, the scale of the work and its invasiveness (cant find the term in english that i am seeking) is much less than the dedicated coded wiring solution. You wont get the (supposed) benefits of the integrated solution but neither will you get the headaches of it screwing something up, if your only consideration is your fear of the scale of the work then the simple solution is the one for you.

Leave it disconnected and see what warning lights come on or what stops working! Alternatively type the part number into Google.