3rdoctavia

It's a difficult one to work out exactly what they claim to do as the marketing says "upto 150% brighter light" (which is in effect 2.5times the original brightness) But that's "Compared to the minimum legal standard" I'm not sure what the minimum legal standard is, but if that's based on an old type of bulb then maybe they are 150% brighter , or maybe my original bulbs were already better than the minimum standard (even though they were just the normal bulbs the car came with) meaning the difference seen isn't as great. I've yet to do much driving on dark unlit roads with them so I'm undecided, but would probably save a few quid and opt for the Osram nightbreaker silver next time.

Hi All, I've been considering an upgrade to my standard Osram H7 Halogens and today I fitted some Philips X-treme Pro 150 and decided to do some before and after pictures to help others considering a similar upgrade. The cost was about £21 from Amazon, and the pictures below were done with the same camera exposure settings (shutter speed, F ratio,and ISO) for before and after to give the best comparison. Long view Close up From a real world driving experience, I would say the new bulbs are subtlety brighter with a longer throw of the beam and with better illumination to either side, in addition to that the light is slightly whiter where the originals were more yellow. I wouldn't call it an earth shattering difference, but on a dark back road I was definitely able to drive without full beam where I wouldn't have been confident in doing that in the past. The alternatives were the Osram Nightbreaker laser (similar price but with a shorter claimed lifespan) and the Nightbreaker Silver (about half the price but slighrly longer lifespan). Next time I might opt for the Silver for less money but I'd be interested in what others think of the difference in the photos above. Maybe the original Osram I had in were decent bulbs anyway and the comparison would have been completely different against a no-name budget bulb. Over the next few weeks I'll get a better chance to try them so I'm reserving my fianl judgement on if it was worth the additional cost. Cheers

Ive opted for 98y xl from kwik fit as they have 15% off if I get all 4 rather than full price for blackcircles. Hopefully they won't be too much difference to the 94w that I have on at the moment 🤔 as I've always ft the current tyres we're a bit soft.

I'm looking to upgrade my tyres on a 2016 scout from pirelli cinturato p7 to crossclimate 2. The cinturatos are 94w but i can only get the new tyres in 94v or 98y. I'm more more less sold on the 98y as I don't want to drop the speed rating but will I notice much difference going from load rating of 94 to 98 ??? thanks in advance ☺️

Hi , does this thread help ? Cheers

Thanks, thats two votes for Philips in different guises but i agree robs12 about not being sure what the differnece is between them all. Below are the candidates ive listed which are £19, £12, £21.50... so i suppose the real question is do I spend the extra tenner for the "BRIGHTER" bulbs or just go for the osram silver 🤔 I'm always wary of advertising hype ! Cheers https://www.amazon.co.uk/generation-brightness-headlamp-64210NL-HCB-passenger/dp/B07FXRDJV7/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2HZPYAUU4YEOJ&keywords=osram+night+breaker+h7&qid=1640822386&sprefix=osram+%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/BREAKER-brightness-headlamp-64210NBS-HCB-passenger/dp/B07FXZXS2N/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=2S154JSZA1QGN&keywords=night+breaker+silver&qid=1640822477&sprefix=nightbreaker+s%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-X-tremeVision-Pro150-headlight-bulb/dp/B08LQTKT6B/ref=pd_aw_sbs_10/257-8107711-7473800?pd_rd_w=PUMMl&pf_rd_p=0cfc847a-3ab0-4595-ac6e-aac07e60f92a&pf_rd_r=K1BNQF2GCNXKQQ67WDWN&pd_rd_r=966f875e-a1a5-4827-8fb0-1021385689f5&pd_rd_wg=1OAoA&pd_rd_i=B08LQTKT6B&psc=1 Apologies for those long hyperlinks ! 🤪

I know this will have bee asked a million times before but I'm stuck in that no man's land of what to choose. In summary I'm after a better headlight given how weak they look on my 2016 mk3 Scout. They must be legal ... so no ebay mega LED 12v wire vaporisers , and I've got it down to either the Philips xtreme pro 150, osram nightbreaker laser 150, or nightbreaker silver. I'm not after styling, or having to change a bulb every week cos they blow all the time but I'm simply after a better bulb for dark country lanes. Which would you choose ???? OK it's only £10-£20 but I want to see a difference and then jot have to buy again in a months time 🤔 Thanks in advance ☺️

I feel your pain as its so often unrelated to what you would expect. In an old car I would have presumed a failing alternator which couldn't keep up with demand meaning the cat would slowly die .... with the usual faint glowing of the battery light going brighter and dimmer (like The Terminors eyeball) as it drew its last breath ! The day a computer was introduced to the engine management signalled the demise of easy fault finding. In the summer I had a faulty ABS loom on the front drivers side which put the ABS light on , along with the rest of the dashboard lights then decided to drain the battery to about 8.5v overnight . With a battery so low in one night is swapped it for another only for the new one.to.go the same way. Old logic would have suspected a bad diode in the charging circuit but instead it was the ABS loom either shorting to earth or keeping the ECU awake somehow. Anyway, I'm glad a bit of glue did the job for you .... old school solution that the cars computer couldn't have come up with. Oh, and who said banging the dash was more for the humour ... I agree, you should have been told to bang on the carpet 😉. Glad you got it sorted 👍

With the new rough road package does that include the increased ride height plus the additional off road mode ? My mate has a 4x4 superb but it only has the eco, normal and sport modes still with no hill decent control either . The UK skoda also came with cinturato p7 tyres but all seasons would have been a better spec. 👍

I think there was a bit of a marketing gap in the UK which led to low sales. The name "scout" sounds to me like a "special edition" rather than a mainstream variant with no indication to the outside world that its AWD , rough road kit, hill decent control, off road mode, and an increased ground clearance. Maybe sticking a skoda 4x4 badge on it might have given it more visibility to buyers. I'm a big fan of mine, it's bit of a wolf in sheep's clothing when you get it on a surface that other car would struggle on, even more so with better tyres on. Its not like its a speed demon or anything but it does seem able to keep itself out of trouble on ropey ground. Cheers

Another mk3 Scout owner here. Love mine, it's a great car and a shame the new version is only available in Europe or to blue light fleet buyers 😕 Cheers

I've got it in with my local VAG indy tomorrow who is going do another check to see if there are any new fault codes. He is doing a haldex oil change and filter clean too so it won't be a wasted journey. Cheers

Hi all, just as an update. I took the car into the garage and they said there wasn't of codes relating to low electrical power probably related to the battery going flat. They replaced the loom to the front drivers abs sensor and all seemed OK with the battery and when locked everything seems to shut down as expected so they cleared all the fat codes. I took the car home on Friday, half expecting a dead battery the next morning but its started every time since !!! So fingers crossed it was the broken ABS loom that was somehow causing the battery to go flat every night somehow (new battery lasted 2 days and dropped to 8v)... Does that sound plausible?? Cheers

I had a similar issue a few years back with a mk2 1.9tdi. Under the bonnet there was a split air inlet hose which only revealed itself when the engine was revved and you could see the split as the pipe pressurised a bit. Mind you it had 140k on the clock at the time so couldn't grumble!

Thanks guys, I've got it booked in with my local garage in 2 weeks for the abs sensor but also have it booked in with my local VAG indy in 4 weeks time to look at any remaining electrical issue if the local garage can't get to the bottom of it. The Indy chap was happy with that and knew his stuff by the sound of things, he said to keep a log of anything that was odd with the electrics though which might point them in the right direction. The electromechanical power steering sounds interesting as I think that's a step up from my old 2006 mk2 okty . I've had a quick read online and it sounds as if the power steering motor should only be activating when needed but mine sounds as if it is working continuously for around 5mins after the key is removed. Does this have a permanent live and would a fault stop the canbus from going to sleep too so adding to overnight current drain? Does the system have a fuse or relay that can be removed to help diagnose, and does it draw a lot of current ? Sorry for all the questions. Cheers

I've just reread this and think it's the power steering pump I'm probably talking about as that is linked to the steering wheel. As you can tell I'm not that good at this car stuff !

Another update ! I took the car out for a drive and determined there are two noises when stopped with key removed. One Is the very quiet sound of the secondary oil pump I think as I've heard that before .... any idea where this is under the bonnet ? The second and much lower noise changes when the steering g wheel is moved. I noticed this as when parked for a few minutes with he key out the noise changed, resistance was lost slightly in the steering wheel and it seems to slightly turn itself (when the hydraulic pressure released??) And it clicked into steering wheel locked position then went off completely after about 5 mins. So I'm wondering if the abs pump is running on and if that is draining power and keeps waking up through the night? This might tie in with the abs light, power steering light, tyre pressure light and traction control lights all being on... which I thought was due to the drivers side abs sensor. Is there a way to check this by removing a fuse or relay for the ABS .... and is the abs module at the back left if the engine bay where I can hear the noise ? Thanks all, I really appreciate you help. 🙏

Hi all, and many thanks for the replies so here is a bit of an update. This morning the battery started the car but showed 12.4v and when first started the alternator supplied 12.8v DC then after revving settled at 13.4v DC .... with 0.8mv ac I don't have access to any diagnostic scanner but when the RAC guy scanned it it showed about 2-3amp of draw for about 4 mins and then dropped to zero. This was after the battery had been jump started but on a cold engine. I checked yesterday and this timing seems to coincide with the noise which I can hear in drivers seat after the engine is off and has a similar sound to when the cabin blower is running very slow....more of a sound of air/fluid flowing than anything else. Under the bonnet the noise had various clicks and switching noises associated with it ... sort of like when the Aircon is adjusting itself with a very quiet sound of something running under the plastic cover directly attached to the left side of the engine when viewed from the front. In an old audi I remember doing a throttle body reset procedure which made similar clicking noises. Cheers

I meant the pump noise is on the left of the engine when looking from the front . I also had a sauna warning about component protection being active the day before it wouldn't start. Cheers *satnav

Hi all, I'm hoping your combined wisdom can help with 2 flat batteries I've had in 2 days in my manual 2.0tdi octavia scout So , he other day I had the RAC out to a flat battery which was 7 months old and when tested had dropped to 8v but showed as taking charge once jump started with the alternator supplying 90amps. I ended up fitting a new battery but within 48hrs this to was down to 9volts so definitely something is draining the battery. As a background in the past 10 days prior to the flat battery my ABS light has been on due to a known fault with the drivers side front ABS sensor which had its connector repaired in january but has reoccurred and is booked in for repair (RAC man confirmed this was a recorded fault code). When the engine is off I can hear a pump running for 5 mins from under the bonnet ( under the black plastic cover on the right side on the engine when looking from front). So any ideas what is causing the flat battery ? ( new battery down to 9v within 2 days) Could a faulty answer sensor or connector cause a drain with the engine off ? (Thinking of a short) Is the overrunning pump possibly a culprit ( it sounds louder than any usual overrunning pump I've hear before on this car). Thanks folks, I really hope you can help . 3rdOctavia

Hi all, Probably a frequently asked question but on friday im picking up a 2016 oct scout with 30k on the clock. What would be the service interval for the haldex ( and am i right in assuming it will be a 5th generation unit) ? Cheers