3rdoctavia

Great, maybe an air bubble in the system meant you needed to top up after the work so it sounds like its sorted. Thanks for feeding back on your success 👍

I was losing about that amount from the pump leak in the end so you have a few things to consider. The problem is that with a warm engine everything drys before making itself known other than a bit of staining that can be seem after a while.

Thanks, i was thinking all of them might be needing swapping if one was failing. Ive seen these which seem like a good price and I can get them local too . Is the pressure sensing one the more expensive one ? So Glow Plug - GLP194 - Duraterm high speed - M 10 x 1 | GSF...Glow Plug - GLP194 - Duraterm high speed - M 10 x 1 Also, ive read about them breaking which worrys me. Is it that much of an issue ? cheers

@SpideyMack ive got a foam insert thats been cluttering the loft for the past 6 years you could have had free, apart from for the cost of postage 😬 I swapped from an Octy2 and kept the spare wheel and didnt need the insert.

I had it done in Nov 2024 and got the timing belt changed at the same time. Ive just looked at the invoice and the total including labour and vat was £460 for pump, timing belt, fitting kit, and coolant tank. I have an Octavia scout which has the protective under tray fitted and the guy said when he took that off there was signs of it having caught some drips. With the tray being in place nothing was showing on the ground. Cheers Ps I think water pump leaks are common on the 2.0tdi I believe, so that would be one of the things Id suggest.

Hi, I took it into my local garage who had a look and diagnosed a leaking water pump. So after booking it in and getting it changed the guy showed me the wear on the old one which seemed to have some sort of plastic part that was clearly worn ( i wish id took a photo). At the same time he swapped the header tank and re-used the new cap id already purchased. To be honest the cap fitted much better on the new tank and was less stiff. The new pump and tank sorted the problem 👍

Hi all, The other day a yellow engine light appeared on the dash on my 2016 2.0tdi 150bhp scout with 95k on the clock. Ive borrowed a basic obd reader which has showed one code which is P0671 indicating a glow plug issue in cylinder 1. The code wouldnt clear but when driving today the dash light isnt there anymore. So, I hope you dont mind a few questions .... Which is glowplug 1 and where is it on the head ? Does the light going out itself mean its now OK. Would a spray if WD40 clean the connection? If I need to change it can I just do the one. If I change it how easily do they break and if I dont have torque wrench for 15nm then how tight should I nip it. Thanks all .

I upgraded to 150 bulbs a few years back and did a thread abiut the comparison. Ive just had one of the bulbs blow for the first time since I fitted them so they have lasted well. As I still had the old bulbs I refitted one to get me by and to be honest I cant tell any difference with the side housing the brighter bulb. So from my experience I'll just stick with a standard h7 bulb. Cheers

Hi Martwek, Id question the diagnosis of a failed diff before they have drained the oil to see what is going on. They may be right but sometimes the "you need a new one" is quick solution to solve a mystery rather than digging further. Id want to see the oil, what it looks like, if there is any swarf in there, so as a first step Id do an oil change to see if that helps. At the same time Id want the haldex oil changed and the internal filter removed and cleaned as that step is often overlooked but a good VW independant will be able to sort it. As a fellow scout owner the 4x4 system can be a bit noisy as it ages, id even call it a bit of a whine but it doesn't necessarily mean its failed. Hope this helps Cheers

Mine does that sometimes and I have to stop and start the engine. Occasionally I have popped the card out and given the contacts a clean with my sleeve. It only happens once every few months though

Hi , first things first , what makes you think a new haldex is needed ? They aren't cheap so need to check that first. Cheers

I thought the same but Langers post and diagram from a while ago was a revelation. I imagined the fuse hibe4 being a parallel circuit meaning it would just flow straigt from the positive pin and into the tail if now inserted correctly. I'm reality though this doubles up the number of fuses it would pass through. Cheers

I managed to to a neat run up behind the rain sensor housing , along the passenger side headlining and down inside the a pillar. It pulled the A pillar cover back enough so I could route it behind the airbag sleeve. Then into the side of the glovebox under the panel and into the fuses. The glovebox retaining arm is always considered challeng3 but ive never had an issue with it. As it turns out the way I had done the fues was correct with the camera still working with the original fuse unplugged so all don3 and dusted. Later in the summer I might have a look at the cable run for the rear camera but for now it can wait 👍.

It saddens me these days where old fashioned mechanics are being replaced with technicians who need a computer to "diagnose" a problem or a manufacturer's advice sheet to tell them what "must" be wrong. The five senses we were born with go a long way to finding faults rather than the main dealer approach supported by manufacturers of "replace everything" to make the problem go away. I had a cracked front grill a few years back and common sense would say "fit a new grill". Skodas simply clever approach was to only make grills already plastic welded to a whole new bumper . To add even more simply clever ideas they were only available in a base coat so would need it respraying before fitting. I think we were north of £1500 at this point but you can see the costs beginning to sky rocket. Luckily the Internet had an after market supplier of just the grill at £60 which once the plastic welds were cut, fitted straight into place of the original cracked one. In your case I think a stethoscope and 30mins with an old mechanic would track down the clunk. And for the oil, a clean up then using your eyes and feel with a tissue might lead you to the source. I dread to think what would happen if some if these technicians were faced with a twin carb to set up ! I have to mention one good skoda tech though, when I had a leaking air con matrix which was going to be £500 to replace. He tried to seal it but it never worked. In the end I asked what my options were and he said either spend £500 which would sort the problem ..... or his second option was that I open a window. I liked that, it was "Simply Clever" 🙂 Hope you get things sorted.

Just for information the back washwiper fuse I piggybacked onto had a 20amp rating which was higher that I expected. The Nexbase hardwire kit included two piggyback holders for use depending on the dimensions of the fuse you planned on tapping into (the octavia seemed to have both versions in use in the fuse box). As for the load draw of the nexbase itself, the piggyback kit from nexbase already had a 2amp fuse inserted, so that is all they draw which is 10% of the rear wiper fuse. Im sure there won't be any issues but I'll check using @langers2k advice. I might be more concerned about fuses blowing though if I had tapped into 5amp supply. The camera works fine though although I've postponed my plans to wire up the rear camera that came in the kit as it seem a faff to remove the rear boot panels and have to feed the wire down the concertina pipe connecting the boot lid to the cars body. Cheers

Thanks Langers , that's a great description of how to check. Remove the original fuse and see if the accessory still works 👍 Sorry for the underline but something went strange with the font.

Id get a quote from an independent vw specialist too. They might have a cheaper way of doing it.

Hi Tankessex, Welcome to the forum and hopefully some of the people on here can help guide you, there's a wealth of experience on here. Is the car a diesel or petrol and what size engine and hp ? How long have you had the car and has it been properly serviced ? The VW engines around the time yours were built have a know issue with the coolant system where there is a small bag of silica crystals in the header tank to slowly release silicates into the coolant but they have a habit of splitting and clogging up the heater matrix. The header tank has the dreaded words "mit silikat" printed on it and there is chance that that may have split. To check, you tend to lose heating on the passenger side first due to a blocked matrix so often shows up in winter when hearing is used. As for losing coolant, there are various hoses which can leak as well as the water pump. Another thing to check is the header tank and cap... if these are not sealed then the system is not under pressure and means the coolant boils at a lower temp than it should . A new tank ( without a silica bag along with a new cap is around £60 as a genuine part , or less as a copy part). Hope you get it sorted and im sure someone will be along soon with an encyclopedia knowledge of the coolant sytem once they know the engine type you have. Out of interest was it a vw main dealer or an independent you took it too ? Cheers

Hopefully this will help show what I have done. Is the direction correct ie is positive at the top and earth at the bottom on the fuse holder blade . Thanks

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Hi all, I've finally got around to doing a permanent install of my sat nav after having it for 5 years. I've taken the feed off the rear wiper fuse which is switched live with the ignition as I didn't want it permanently live. The kit came with a piggy back fuse but without a multi meter I couldn't work out it the top spade of the fuse socket was live or earth. I've assumed the live is the top one so power flows down the fuse and out at the bottom but can you confirm this is correct. The car is a mk3 2.0tdi 150 manual diesel scout. Thanks all

That brought back some funny memories. When I was 19 I used to get a lift home from work from someone with an old Metro. Their fuel gauge never worked so they used to listen for fuel sloshing when they pulled up at traffic lights. If it didn't slosh they needed to get petrol . 👍

Thanks Warrior, for the tank I'll get one from Eurocar parts . They do a Mahle one for about £25, and with no moving parts I'm happy to use a copy part 👍 I've noticed my radiator fans being on more too when I've parked up which I presumed was due to a regen happening. Although I suppose it could also be due to the coolant system working hard if it wasn't under sufficient pressure due to a faulty cap ( yet temp on the dial was lways ok). 🤔

I Went to the dealership today and got a genuine cap for the tank which is now in place. It's a slightly different design on the top compared to the original but it screwed in the same. The guy on thr parts desk said they had changed them a bit but it's the correct part. I managed to unscrew the old cap with very little hiss and no steam suggesting there was only a small amount of pressure In the system despite the engine being warm I'd expect a sealed sytem under pressure would have spit and spluttered when the pressure was released allowing the fluid to boil but there was none of that. If this works ill sort the old tank too. For reference the cap was £22 and a tank is £45. Cheers

Thanks all, I'll need a new cap anyway so I'll see about a tank at the same time. My plan was to soak it in vinegar in a bucket overnight to get rid of the rust stain. I've added probably 5 litres over the past 6 months as things got worse. I was hoping that might have replaced some of the dirty but when thinking about it the evaporated coolant would have left all the muck behind meaning so doing coolant wouldn't have helped. I've seen on YouTube someone who disconnected the return pipe and fed that into a bucket whilst they added the coolant to the tank. That way it flushed through. Has anyone e tried that ?? Thanks