3rdoctavia

Does the broken connector not slide up out of the front of the holder allowing you to make up new one to slide back in ? Or is it fully moulded into place ? It does have a grove on the picture where the connector is which suggests it just slides in . Cheers

Did they sell it as having full service history or did they just say the service history can be found online as the both would have different meanings. Has it had an MOT done yet but the way as that can sometimes show some history with recommendations etc.

Hi, I'd be tempted to ask them to refill with new oil and see how it goes but also ask them what the guibo joint is looking like. An oil change might quieten the diff down. I have a 2016 scout which has a bit of noise at the back which had a slight wine to it. I could also feel a slight clunk as I took up drive by feathering the clutch which turned out to be the guibo and I have ran it for 6months and haven't had it changed yet bit will do it at next service. Like I said, it might be the diff, but I'd try the cheap options first. Cheers

Hi jobjor, Looking at the story the easy option would be to drop 10k on a new diff and problem solved .Naturally the garage want to solve the issue but it's worth trying a few things first. As the diff has no real service interval the oil in there may have been doing its job for 6 years and over 114000km. At the same time the teeth and bearing in the diff have slowly ground their way through life until a skoda tech removes the drain plug for the first time since it was fitted in the factory to be shocked that it has collected some gunk and metal flakes. As the diff is rarely drained, and not many skodas come with a rear diff there is a chance that what they are seeing is new to the technician too. So the diagnosis is a destroyed diff and a 10k bill. So my thoughts are: Has the oil change done anything to the noise ? Has anyone checked the guibo coupling between the driveshaft and the diff ? when they wear they can rattle and whine and are about £400 to replace. I'm not saying it won't be the diff, but if you Google metal in diff oil there's plenty of examples where is is seen as common. Fingers crossed for you ! Cheers

Good to see you have narrowed it down to what you are after. I did the same and then went looking having had a mk2 1.9tdi estate for 12 years from new. I'd echo the comments about checking the coolant reservoir for a split silca bag. Also get the engine up to temperature and put the blowers on high temp... if its not blowing hot the silica bag has split and blocked the matrix and a dealer will charge 2k to flush and fix the system. Those with a silica bag have "mit silicat" printed on the expansion tank but when mine got replaced the main dealer swapped it with a one without the silica bag under the used car warranty. I bought the car with 29k on the clock in the may so never noticed the heater issue until the winter but luckily within the 12month warranty window. I'd also want a full size spare, I kept the one from my mk2 as it was a similar size rolling circumference but on a 16inch rim. Check the one you have in your mk2 and keep it if you can. The main dealer I used said that wouldn't affect the part ex value on mine coz it was so old and off to auction . Depending on age also look for apple /android car connectivity. My 2016 was on the transition year so car play wasn't activated as standard but can be done for about £140 via main dealers to cover the software licence cost. I haven't bothered to do that. Cheers

Those part numbers are really helpful. I had to drill the lock out of a stuck towbar last summer and didn't know you could get a replacement lever. For me the lever was jammed and wouldn't spring back and show the towbar was fully attached. Sadly the next day it freed itself upd after the wd40 had smoked into the mechanism 🤨 cheers

Don't know what happened there but tried to say that Toot makes a good point. Skoda dealers won't strip the haldex to clean the internal filter as skoda reckons this isn't needed. A good indie garage will do this as they know it gets gunked up.

Just to clarify for the OP... Guibo and donut are the same thing. Like a rubber joint to take up some of the shock from the drive shaft to the diff.

Whne you are at standstill and you lift the clutch take up drive (just enough for the car to lurch forward a but do you hav any noise then, like a slight clunk from the rear . I get that from play in a slightly worn donut joint conn3cting the drive shaft to the rear diff/ axle. This gives a bit of a hum from the rear when driving along as I suppose the slight looseness translates a vibration noise when driving. I still think the haldex/diff scares dealers a bit as its a bit of a mystery that they arnt allowed to mess on with other than a complete swap and many techs aren't daily drivers of quaytro cars so may not be familiar with its daily noises.

It sounds as if the garage couldn't quite work out what was causing it and having changed other things the diff is the only thing left. Going back to first principles though what is the noise you are hearing, when does it happen, does it change at all and if so when does it do that. The rear drive isn't silent as there is a drive shaft going to the back so often that can be heard especially if there is some wear in the donut joint meaning there is noise when taking up drive or it can have a slight noise as it rumbles along. Cheers

I had a similar issue mate in my 2016 scout. I accepted what they said as it was a big chain tyre fitter and the last thing I wanted them to do was mess on with the subframe. The guy couldn't even select the right version of my car from the screen and said "it doesn't matter, they are all the same" until his boss told him he needed to chose the right car to get the right adjustments to make. I figured the subframe was probably set at the factory so must have been in their factory tolerance. You experience has set mind at rest that it isn't just my car with this diagnosis ! Cheers

Hi Dib, what year is it and is it still under the dealers warranty which means you need to have it serviced by them. The reason I ask is that the skoda service of the haldex doesn't take the unit apart to clean the internal filter as they just change the oil. A good VW independent will take it apart and clean the internals ( skoda says the filter isn't part if the service although if you search the forum the pictures will show you how much it needs a good clean. What confuses me know is the complete lack of drive you had which was resolved when you went into normal mode .... in off road were you conscious of any wheels spin or was it simply a case of engine revs and nothing else (as if it was out of gear). Thanks

Hmm, not sure. I thought the car was mainly front wheel drive until it detects slip and then it activates the haldex to bring the rear drive train into play. So reversing I would expect the same to happen. So I'm not sure why normal mode would help when off road didn't as I think off road more or less makes it more sensitive. I wonder if it's a DSG issue with reverse when combined with off road mode. There is also the option of turning tracking control off when you get stuck as that will allow some wheel spin to drag you out rather than the traction control cutting in and stops you going anywhere.

Hi, I'd question if it was swarf or just rubbish from the friction pads that was getting flushed through with the new oil. If it was a mess to begin with then id expect the flushing from the new oil to cause that to become dirty too. For it to gunk up again so quickly just with swarf there would need to be a lot of metal on metal contact so it want to see the mess from the filter and see what a magnet attracts. I'd go with the plan J.R. has suggested. If the pump has worn then even if it shows signs of running then it might not be doing its job so that's one thing to consider, cheaper too than a whole new unit . Hope you get it sorted.

Hi, I've read that the brake switch can throw off the haldex as the haldex disengages under braking so a faulty switch (foot or handbrake) can send the wrong signals and disengage haldex. Second up is the earth lead from the haldex, that can rot apparently and cause the pump not to run. It's easy to blame the unit itself.when often there can be other easier things to trace too. Have you been to a vag specialist other than the indy or the vw franchised garage... it always annoys me when a "technician" uses a computer to diagnose a "fault" without considering the options. I could be wrong , but I'd look at the cheap possibilities first before dropping 6k on a diff . 😪

Hi Haris, Fitting a towbar for a simple bike rack seems like an expensive solution to get what you need . The towbar and fitting won't be cheap so have you considered a boot or.roof based bike mount as that will be much easier and cheaper ? For the price of the towbar you will be able to get a good alternative boot/roof option . Cheers

Which did you go for in the end ?

I'd be tempted to change to a more suitable vehicle rather than begin to make modifications. Although you may get the ride height most vehicles struggle off road due to toad tyres and the lack of 4x4 which is a significant factor too. The modifications may also require an insurance notification and resale values may be an issue especially when you say it was modified to take it off road. Have you considered something like the Dacia Duster 4x4 ... they have a good reputation for off road abilities ? Cheers

The scout has and "off road" mode in the selection , does the standard SE-L have that already or can it be coded /switched on somehow ? I find the body protection handy , especially the cill protection which connects to the wheel arches. My MK2 Ambience didn't have that and the lack of protection ended up causing rusting cills ( OK, it did have 160k on the clock !) . The scout does seem to do a good job of that. Shame the new Scout is available in the UK ☹️

I didn't know I could be talked into buying a 20k car coz the fuel filler cap had an ice scraper slotted into it ! 🤣 Skoda marketing and sales team ... simply clever 😉

Sounds like you need a new batter in the key fob maybe. Do all other systems work on the car and do the internal lights come on OK when you get in ( to check your car battery isn't too low to power the central locking). Changing the fob battery is pretty easy if you go on YouTube.

What your heating like, do the vents blow heat or are they cold ? I had my heater matrix and tank replaced under warranty a few years back and although the coolant has once again taken on a rusty colour is seems this is more staining of the new tank ( with no silica bag) than anything else. I'm still getting heat through the vents so I'm not worried but I'm not loosing coolant like you are.

Same thoughts .... wheel speed sensor, they turn on that many lights I wouldn't be suprised if it ends up turning the light on in my downstairs toilet !!! They seem to be connected to everything, and don't be suprised if you end up with a flat battery (if that happens get the sensor changed and the connecting lead checked before it tricks you Into getting a new battery). Cheers

Glad to see you may have got to the bottom of the issue. I was also surprised just to see how disruptive a failed ABS sensor can be (or associated cable).... especially leading to battery problems, reversing sensors and starting issues etc etc