Golfmk56

Said I'd never use this forum as it's mostly full of unhelpful trolls, and armchair experts. Can't believe some of the responses on this thread - nobody seems to have established what the spec is on the OP's car nor has anybody questioned where the OP originates from ( different specs in different markets ) Car delivered in Oct '20? well that puts it bang in the middle of MY20 or MY21 deliveries - has anyone established for sure what MY the OP has? Could the OP have been looking at the brochure for a MY20 car and was given a MY21 car? That would seem a distinct possibility to me. No point in saying according to the brochure from last year, a brochure is only as good as information at the time of publication - they willl always have a disclaimer that information and prices correct at time of going to press - check with dealer for latest info. Did OP check with dealer what he was ordering? Assuming the car is UK and it's a MY21 ( i.e. two spoke steering wheel on L&K as opposed to 3 spoke) then ACC was not part of any package - you had to order it seperately. Various assistance packages depended on having already chosen ACC, so the OP needs to find out exactly what he ordered because there was no such thing as a 'Driver's assistance package' on MY21 cars - Driver Assistance is a category under which you could choose certain options. So will say it again - did OP actually order something called a "driver assistance package"? From the Oct 2020 MY21 brochure: As you can see ACC was a cost option on L&K. And depending on what assistance package offered, it was conditional on that ACC option being ticked. I apologise if I've overlooked the above responses but the OP hasn't actually mentioned any of these assistance systems are on his car. He mentioned 'Front Assist' but every car comes with that. I'd just like to know what other assistance tools the OP has on the car. My gut feeling is he doesn't have any. But then in the typical Briskoda fashion, it all gets out-of-hand when armchair experts will chip in and cry aloud with reject the car! and compensation! Oh how I've missed this forum - not. Assuming the car was bought in the UK then the time for rejection in this case has long past, and then claims of "I wan't at least ££££ compensation". I shake my head in disbelief. What do you expect to be compensated for - a piece of equipment the OP hasn't missed for 8 months? Hardly essential then is it? If ACC was indeed part of a package the OP ordered, then given the elapsed time, likely compensation would be to refund the price of that option and if you're lucky, something thrown in as goodwill - a free service or £100 compensation voucher or whatever. If OP thinks they'll compensate for 3rd party to fit the system - dream on. If OP threatened to take the matter further then the supplying dealer would probably encourage it, and that's because any 3rd party would see it exactly the same- how can something that hasn't been used or questioned for 8mth ever be considered an essential part of the deal? My strong advice is to check with your supplying dealer as to what you actually ordered. All the evidence points at ACC not being included in any package on a MY21 L&K in the UK. Assuming of course it's a MY21 car you have? If you expected a MY20 car and you defo ordred a pack in which ACC was included, but they gave you the updated MY21 car which doesn't come with ACC, then you will do well to get the cost of the ACC back. If they gave you a newer model than you were expecting then it's reasonable for anyone to see that as compensation itself.

Just a hunch it may be the rear parcel shelf - might not be seated properly or the flap might be rubbing against the seats. ( because thats what happened to me ). Try removing the shelf altogether to see if noise still there.

No offers yet on DrivetheDeal but Broadspeed now advertising the base S manual with £2900 discount and something like 1.5 DSG SE-L with £3800 discount. Guess a popular combo would be 1.0 DSG 115ps SE-L which lists for £23230? Broker now advertising this at £19623 - a saving of £3,607. I thought it have taken a few weeks yet for the discounting to start - apparently not.

Well for the first time in my life I've went down the PCP route and paid off within the 1st 14 days and yes, it's referred to as a withdrawal. Cancelled after 9 days, worked out at £29 interest. As per above, I too was surprised when I was told I had 30 days to make payment. As for the comments above by Phil 245: As said everyone is different, although I don't think I've come across anyone who's ever worried about selling their car and I'm even more confused why you should think this has to be done privately. I sold my car to a garage buy back scheme ( as I've done with last few cars ) and received more than what the GFV would have been. I do take issue about the affordability that I highlighted. If someone needs to keep money back for whatever reason rather than pay for goods in full, that means they can't actually afford to buy the goods. Most people are in that situation. As ever when dealing with sales, I had one guy preach to me the benefits of PCP when looking for best deals. He said why use your savings when you can pay monthly and enjoy other things like holidays. My reply to that was why pay in full for holidays when you can take them out on a load and have money left for something else. And why pay in full for something else when you can take out another loan and use the money elsewhere - In other words at what point does the argument to pay monthly so you keep your savings for something else fail? Whatever the argument, it costs money. I couldn't have cared less how my dealer worked out PCP, in the end I think it was over 36mth with 1mth deposit. ( Again I was surprised the 1st deposit wasn't too be taken for a month - i.e. I didn't pay a penny to turn up and drive away in a brand new car. ) The interest over three year on the loan worked out at nearly £4000 grand. I'd loose around a grand in interest by not having the money in my account. That's £3000 I'm giving to the finance company rather than my kids? Each to their own but if you have the money to buy outright, PCP makes little sense to me. PS - Skoda were also offering a 0% interest PCP which defo would have made sense, but then you'd lost out on the full £2750 deposit contribution. Which ever way you look at it, the finance company benefits more than you do.

What a coincidence, collected a 1.5 DSG today, roads soaking wet but within 5mins that's exactly what i noted - wheel spin, and i drive like Ms Daisy. Wondered how long these brand new tyres were going to last. My first thought was car in SPORT mode but it was NORMAL. So changed to ECO and no more spin. Can only think oil coming off brand new rubber as cause but yes, u do need to feather accelerator. Total miles so far 5, so will wait and see. Bet 19" tyres dont help. Didnt notice tyre manufacturer, car tucked up in bed for the night, will check 2mro.

I have the double boot floor on my estate and you can find all sorts under there - amongst other things I have a small tent, a stove and sleeping bags. ( You'll find life-jackets and paddles for the Kayak too!) I'd defo go for a tent over an awning - cheaper, much less hassle and it's guaranteed sealed tight, but if it's defo an awning you're after Khyam offer a selection. Can't vouch for their awnings but I did buy one of their quick-erect pole shelters for our club and they're brilliant. A 3m x 3m tent which you can stand up in can be erected / taken down and packed away in minutes.

What's best is your decision and really depends on how good your local Skoda dealers / independents are. When a car is under warranty the majority of people will stick main dealer for routine servicing. A Skoda dealer should be able to price match any local indi so potentially there's no cost advantage. Outside of warranty, I personally would err towards a Skoda dealership, again they should be able to price match. For work other than routine servicing tho, I'd be looking towards a specialist garage.

The OP asked about sound - why is there a discussion about number plates? There are only a couple of negatives I have about the Octavia, top of the list is the audio. And to be fair in most reviews I've read it's true for all Skoda models ( just watched a review of the Kamiq which had the upgraded sound option and that too was unimpressive ). For a number of reasons head unit replacement on facelifted cars with the newer head units is difficult but I expect much easier on a 5yr old car. I'd go down the route of looking at head unit replacement first with something that can push out more power. My next move would be speaker replacement (being careful to match the speakers to the headunit). A Even a half decent head unit should have a facility to add amps therefore in future you could expand with subs etc - but set up correctly you shouldn't need that to enjoy music. The other option is to add an amp on to the existing head unit. Best taking your car to an audio specialist if you're not confident of messing around with wires. Your headunit will not have the facility to add an amp but you can still add one using the speaker connections. A much easier option is to look out for a 'MATCH' upgrade. MATCH AMPS This is a plug n play kit which adds a tiny amp to the exiting system. It's quite expensive for what it is and not many dealers carry the equipment but it's a very easy upgrade option. If you power the sub via the battery rather than use existing wiring, it'll boost the amp with more power thus better sound. You can even add a small sub. ( this is the system I chose ). Of course you could spend £1000s replacing the whole lot - just depends how much you're willing to spend. The best advice I can give tho is some folk will say just replace the speakers. The speakers in the Skoda aren't good and I'm not a fan of how they're mounted nor their positioning, but in truth that's the last upgrade to make. It's the old adage garbage in = garbage out, in other words if you feed the speakers with a crap under powered signal, then you're only going to get a crap under powered sound in return. Hope that helps. Number plates eh? The first car our family bought was an F reg, that's the original F back in...

Corrosion comes from inside the metal to the outside. Looking at that photo, you can clearly see the damage is only on the side of the wheel arch, if it were corrosion it would also include where the metal folds over - i.e. the 3mm or so worth of metal directly facing the tire. The piece of metal facing the tire looks perfect, the paint is fully intact. In this case the damage has occurred from outside - in rather than inside - out therefore not a warranty claim. the damage looks very light therefore depending on your excess, it's probably worth paying a bodyshop to repair it, the sooner the better before it gets worse.

No! It's UP TO a maximum of 2yrs. Variable servicing means that time can vary. The time the oil lasts depends on a number of factors - how the car has been driven and in what environment it's been driven.

Not saying they are wrong but in might be an idea asking your indie VAG garage for the source of that information. The only reason I say this is because as ever with VAG, it depends where you look as to what information is provided. If they've dropped the time limit then I'd get in in writing. (personally I don't believe that's correct but who actually knows?) Dealerships / service centres themselves don't seem to have a ***ing clue. An example of every 5year: https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/servicing/what-we-check-and-why/cambelt-change An example of no time limit: (better still, note how different intervals depending on different engine: (see pg 11) https://www.seat.com/datamanual-maintenance/my12_w22/Turismos/en-uk/Maintenance_programm_EN.pdf A direct contradiction to the above from main dealership: https://www.coxmotorgroup.com/aftercare/seat/seat-cambelt Here's an Audi dealer telling you it's between 40k-60k !! https://www.sinclairaudi.co.uk/news/cambelt-changed-audi-a3

Sasha has hit nail on the head with my attitude to extended warranties. Any car can go wrong at some point so it's obviously a gamble but... 1: If the car has been trouble free thus far the probability is it will remain trouble free 2: Having a warranty is no guarantee a problem will be fixed. As ever there's something called 'small print', who's to say if Sasha had taken out a warranty that said sensor would have been covered? Just look thru the various forums of any manufacturer / 3rd party warranty provider and you'll see time and time again people saying a particular fault wasn't covered by the warranty.

I had never heard of this problem before. As far as I'm concerned my battery never been trouble free but when my car was serviced last month, the only thing highlighted on the report was low charge battery. ( They offered to recharge it for something like £29 😱 ). I hadn't used the car for almost 2 weeks prior so advised a good run would probably put everything right. As I say, gave it a good run next day - not sure if that worked or not because I never experienced any problem before. My car was registered July 2017 so could fall with the range suggested above. Silver1001 - is there any further information on these Moll batteries? If I can find any evidence I'll have them swap it out. Cheers.

Let's go back a generation to when ExeterJ purchased the car. According to your logic, when he bought it, the car had no previous owner? According to my logic the only car that has had no previous owner is one that's brand new, not used. Never in my life have I seen a used car for sale stating no previous owners.

Ha ha - and I thought only it was only the Arthur Daley types could come up with that logic. The original owner ran it as a demo. The 2nd owner WAS ExeterJ. ExeterJ is not the current owner of the car. The car has had two previous owners.

Not forgetting the acceleration problem the most reliable manufacturer in the world experienced. For many years people complained about their Toyotas ( as well as Lexus ) suddendly accelerating for no reason, all of which was initially denied by the manufacturer. Apart from having to rectify the problem and pay out for accidents etc, Toyota were also fined $1.2billion for trying to cover up a known problem. But according to some, it's only VAG who experience unreliability and engage in scandal.

How odd. Are you saying it's just one of the rear windows that acts like this? Have you tried both the window switch on the door and the switch on the drivers to to move it? I can't think of any reason why this would happen (child safety devices would prevent the window from opening whether travelling or stopped - they also allow the window to be operated from the driver panel only). The problem almost sounds like it's related to the auto door locking function in some way - if activated then the doors lock when the car reaches 5mph or thereabouts. I haven't a clue but if enabled, try disabling the auto-door lock function and see what happens. By the way, when you say you've recently bought a car - how long ago? Tell your supplier you're not claiming it as a warranty issue, you're claiming faulty goods under the consumer rights act 2015 and if he doesn't fix the problem, you'll take the car to another garage who can fix it and will then send him the invoice. If he fail to pay, you'll then claim the full amount via small claims court. Don't let the b*gger off with it.

Seems everyone is missing the point. There will be many many Skoda owners who've happily covered 39000 miles error free, there will be others who've had far worse problems that shocks and wheel bearings. So call your Skoda a ****box all you want but what about telling us what car you're going to replace it with, because the second you do that, I'll happily send you examples of what some owners think what a ****box that car that is. Catastophically bad and decsribing a car that's covered 39000km as new? Good luck arguing that one. (Sounds a bit drama queen if you don't mind me saying). But that aside I don't understand that sentance. What age is your car - are you saying it's 10 years old?

I'm confused. OP says they'd question buying another Skoda, that they don't subscribe to the lemon outlook and has never suffered this level of failure in a Citroen, Renault or Alfa. Have no reason to doubt that statement but given those latter car manufacturer's results in reliability surveys, plenty of other owners have experienced failures. And just one look at any of their relevant forums will confirm that. Components fail in even the most reliable car manufacturer's products. But what I can't understand is OP says "given it's a new car" and then goes on to say the car has covered "39000km" ? 39000km is not a new car, anything could have happened within that timescale. As for quality control - are these shocks and wheel bearings manufactured by Skoda or will they be OEM? Do those other manufacturers who use the same shocks not suffer similar failures? And how can those manufacturers tell if a shock or wheel bearing is going to fail at 39000km when they're assembling the car? If this were a common problem then yes I too would question whether or not I'd buy another Skoda, but if it's a rare problem then I can't see where the OP is coming from. Nothing is 100% reliable isn't that why we buy warranties?