Tivan

From owning 1.6 TDI and actively tracking regens I can say it purely depends on type of driving you do. For my car, If I mostly do city its about 90 do 100 miles between regens. If I do highway, it can go 5 times as much without a regen on those speeds. I just try to let it complete once I know its doing a regeneration. Of course, If I cannot and i need to park and stop I do it. But then on the next run I try to detour or something to let it complete. It's an annoyance, I agree, and one thing I am not going to miss when I change the car. One thing I need to mention is, when I did not track regents like I do now and I did more interruptions, I had engine oil dilution and rise of oil levels. Since then I try to keep things under control. My DPF seems fine, but bloody diesel in oil is something I don't want.

Would you be so kind to post more details on the solution? Others may need it as well when they stumble on this thread. Thanks.

I have MY2016, 1.6 TDI. My car was not part of dieselgate emission fix, its EU6, but on my last visit to official dealer, they did some kind of ECU update related to exaust system. Since then, my car does regens mostly every 150km of city or near city driving (drives of about 20km). On motorway or open road its less frequent. Before the update it was 250 to 300 in the city. Its very anoying but I try do comply with the regens. As a bonus, each few thousands of kms I need to extract the oli due to excesive diesel in it IF i allow the interruptions to happen on regular basis. Heck, I think oil dilutes even If i dont interupt any regens. Told this to the dealer a month ago, but nothing, they dont care really. "Its normal".

It's so called NextGen version. I purchases it when it came out as I had iphone back then. Sadly they changes business model so Obd11 is now subscription based, 2years is the duration of subscription. Old users (including myself) have lifetime subscription. Carista can work similarly if not the same as Obd11 without this subscription based model. Never used it myself though.

I recoded mine using Obd11, it's super easy. If you plan on keeping the car I recommend to purchase that kind or similar device,its gonna help you.

I am not in the UK nor have I ever had these cases, but common sense dictates that if you leave the dealer after incpection service (which should include computer diagnostic reading on modern cars), that inspection was not done correctly. They either had not read codes or they did something with the vehicle that would cause these errors. Maybe they disconnected the battery? If you don't get smarter advice I would call the dealer and ask them (you should have asked them immidiately but I can understand the hesitance to do so). Actually I would call them regardless of advices here. Battery reading seems similar to what I had after 5 years. I changed the battery as a precaution. Battery still works today for backup power supply for heating system.

I was able to fit 2meter bed frames in my octavia hatch with passenger seat all the way front and back part as vertical as possible. That time I snug in there entire bed (taken appart) and also 200x160cm mattress (folded of course).So if you dont have passanger, about 2m is the limit, and about 50cm height if you want to close the boot (because of the rear window slope). With wagon you get the advantage of being able to fit higher items.

Hello everyone. I have a potential issue coming my way with my car, so wanted to ask about your respective opinions or experiences just to be prepared as much as possible and, if possible, to prevent any major problems ahead. So, it’s about transmission/gearbox system, i think at least. My car is 1.6 TDI, 2015 (MY2016), 5 speed manual, 100k km on the clock. Here are the things I experienced so far in the above mentioned system: In the last few months on several occasions it was hard to engage 3rd gear, it required hard push on the gear stick or re-engagement of the clutch to do it. Happened about, 3 or 4 times. 1st gear is always clumsy since I own the car (almost 4 years now) so I ignore that. A week ago, when I was reversing from Lidl parking lot, suddenly I felt car no longer has any power. Only to quickly realize that the gearbox was in neutral (disengaged) although stick was where it was, not moved, in the reverse position. Just this morning I turned on the car. After about half a min, I pressed on the clutch in order to start moving. As soon as I pressed the clutch the engine rpm increased slightly above 1000 and then dropped. Increase lasted for about maybe a second. I repeated this process few more times to be sure it really happens and it did, on every press of a clutch it did it. I did not touch gear shifter all this time. Then, after some contemplation on the problem and when I was prepared to actually start moving, when I pressed the clutch again and touched the gear knob (just slight touch), I felt it actually moved into neutral. So in essence, even though the shifter was in neutral position (I always park in neutral) visibly, internally gearbox was not fully there. Never ever have I had this in a car. This seems like the opposite of what happend on parking lot in 1 above. In the last month or two, when driving exactly between 56 and 59 kmh (about 2k rpm) I can hear some kind of whine with change in amplitude..whummm…whummm.whummm….its not sharp, its rather faint and can easily be drowned by engine or road noise, but then again now that I hear it its hard not to notice it anymore. Seems its not dependant on hear, I can hear it in 2nd as well, but much less in 4th. If at all because in those at 2k you re going faster so road noise drowns it significantly. Lastly, when ever I press clutch in neutral, I can hear a small, very faint change in sound, but very, very faint, so much so that I always ignored it. This is so for at least 2 years now…I don’t remember when I first noticed it. I am planning to do a preventive gearbox oil change in a week or two, hoping it may help. I hate the idea to start removing the gearbox or do a clutch job (or both) at this point, I am not really convicted it’s there yet. I have no other symptoms with it, no slippage, no shaking… Any ideas or experiences ? Thank you.

Ok so here is an update. I manage to figure out what crackles/squeaks. I did try that part of interior trim before and it was silent. Quite unexpectedly I tried again and now it revealed itself. It is the bottom part of the center console side panel, see the image. I am yet to figure out two things: 1. Why it actually does that when I take off with the car and how come it started now after having the car for 4 years. 2. How to fix it permanently. I cannot explain 1. other than vibrations. When I press that part of trim it makes the same noise, but taking of with the car does not or should not make such physical pressure (i made sure my leg is not touching on it). But car makes larger vibrations only over 2k of RPM or driving in too low gear, neither is true for taking off from stand still because by the time i reach over 2k it stops. Its also a mystery why it makes the noise sometimes, but not always. I tried taking the plate off and putting some silicon spray. That kinda fixed it for short time, but now its back. I will need to figure out what to stick in there to make it stop. Unless someone has some kind of an idea?

I think it's not suspension because I have that too and that sounds different. I also think it's inside because of the way it sounds... it sounds same as when you ovettigthen the bold and bolt starts making that noise... Not sure how to describe it..

Hi all... I know these kind of things are hard to diagnose, especially over the forum so I apologise for the topic. But I am all out of ideas and its really getting irritating so I am hoping someone had a similar issue. My car is 1.6 octavia hatch (2015), left driving side. Problem is: Usually when I start moving (almost always) or accelerate a bit harder (developed this winter), but also over small road bumps (not always), i can hear a crackling sound somewhere around my legs area (if I pinpointed correctly) or steering column. It has been like this for some time now, but never as loud as this winter. Now, at certain times it sounds almost as if someone is pressing on a candy bar wrap. I thought it might be seat springs (if there are any inside), but when I move on the seat its dead silent. But then again, if i was seat it would not be there over small bumps as well? I tried moving parts of the trim with my hands, and it cracks as usual, nothing major. I am suspecting the seat somehow, but no idea how to confirm and let alone fix it.

Sorry to jump into your thread like this. I have almost the same problem with my 1.6 TDI, but my milage is not close to indicate end of life for DPF (close to 60k miles). My DPF is at 28% (according to VAG DPF). For me usually it happens in the first 5 mins of drive usually going the same route, cruising with 35 mph (never with full or strong throttle). Quite often this loss of power matches with hitting pot holes on the road but not always. I have no idea what it is and why it happens, car is maintained regularly.

Hope you dont mind me stealing some of your time again. This evening I hooked up VAG DPF app while driving. Even though its not doing any regen, it is doing some post injection 3. In the lower bottom right corner you can see max value. Usually when I would peek on the app i would see 0.6 but it was not all the time. It was changing from 0 to some value. 1 and 2 were zero all the time. Here is the SS from the app itself I took few minutes ago.

A small update. Today I got my new oil delivered so I pulled out old oil using oil pump (i have no means of doing proper drain from underneath). My plan is to do another proper oil and filter change in October/November when I usually do it, this time its just oil to remedy immediate issue. So I pulled out a little bit less then, brace yourself, 6 L !!! Then I put in 4 L of fresh oil and dipstick was between middle and high. So I left it like that and went for a ride to drop my wife for work. I will keep monitoring oil levels and also try do do monthly longer runs on highway, even though highway is not my route and i have no reason to be on it, apart from freakin DPF as it seems. Would you guys advise me to reset my oil service interval today or should I leave it and let the mechanic reset when i do oil+filter change in couple of months?

They did not mention anything like that, no device....can I physically check if device is there? And 2 years have not passed since that was done on my car. Do you think I may have grounds on the warranty claim here?

Mistake on my end, its EURO 6, not 5. Apologies. (cant edit for some reason).

Production year is 2015 but MY16. It is EURO 5 yes. Service campaign they applied was 23EAX, they told me it was related to aging of DPF something...i have it in written if it matters. There is a thread on it here in this forum. I did not want to do it, but I needed them for some other issue they needed to fix as part of warranty and my warranty was just coming to an end at that time so I did not want to discuss to much,

Sadly I need the car so I will pull out all the oil I can and put in fresh. For start. To be fair almost 2 years ago now skoda has done software update on my car. Since then regens are down from 250km to only 150km cycles. I think that might be the cause of excessive fuel in there. That or leaking injector or some other issue with it. But if it was injector issue would I not see some other symptoms?

No, car is driven every day. Not a glimpse of an issue while driving. No engine lights no codes (been scanning it every month with obd11).

They did mention this could be but not in a serious tone like it's some serious issue. They said regen could be an issue if car is driven relatively short distances with a lot of active regen cycles.

Hi all. So 2 days ago my car went in for a cam belt change. That all went well. But, at the garage they told me that the oil level is above max. I confirmed the same when i got home. So I used my oil pump and extracted over 1 liter of old oil. Dipstick still shows over max. How is this possible? I drove like this for 8 months since last oil change and nothing... i did not even check oil levels as I had pretty busy days with kids and all...

I think those should be sold with every vw group car as an option! Joke aside, yes, its super useful thing to have if for nothin else then just to keep an eye on the error codes. But with a bit of research you can get a long way in caring and inspecting your car with that thingy.

Mine is doing the same, about 90miles (give or take a few) between regens since last dealer service when they did some update, last year in september. No errors ever show when scanning with OBD11, doing it regularly.

I had this happening to me once... only to realise my foolishness by using the pump which was actually for trucks. And i was wondering why it was so hard to put in the filler pipe into the tank filling hole. :D

I also heard that vw/skoda went back to conventional design of pumps without this actuator sleeve and that should solve that problem. However, after I asked dealer to tell me what kind of water pump they would install on my car given the quote they have me - they never replied. I will most certainly ask for a conventional pump design when I get my car into dealership for cam belt change. If they start flying around that request I will not proceed with the work and find another place.