steevs

Interesting, my battery is less than 2 years old AGM Varta 70ah. I've tested (and had tested for my own sanity) and shows 2/3rd of it's original cranking capacity but still charges correctly. I have measured it dropping to less than 10v during cranking but the car modules show a voltage of 11v when the steering switch module logs an error. Keep me posted on if this stays resolved, a bit dangerous the fact that the horn fails if battery voltage drops though.

Following this up with a bit more info, today got a P056800 on the engine module. Additionally when checking the ACC operating lever signal, it is stuck at 1011000 until restart. Will try find someone nearby at the weekend for a proper Odis scan.

Just posting my experience on this, the noise was caused by the top speaker grille on mine, I also had noise from pretty much every decorative trim though the speaker grille one was the hardest to track down and the most annoying under hard acceleration. All of my noise issues were solved by placing some fabric tape/wiring loom tape around all the plastic pieces that are used to click into the dashboard (they are obvious) But I've learned: as you fix one squeak, 2 extra ones appear until you've torn apart the frontend of the car.

I'll need to try find somewhere that will give an Odis printout, as for obdeleven tweaks; I reverted fully back to standard coding and adaptions but the problem still persists. It seems to be voltage related, I noticed there's another discussion about this exact issue going on over on Reddit. I am also rarely getting start/stop to happen and have seen a few function restriction due to low voltage codes being stored. Battery is less than 2 years old and alternator has been tested and working well but it drops to under 12v overnight.

Hi all, 2020 Superb SportLine Plus I've recently been experiencing an issue where in the morning, specifically on colder days - my horn and ACC will stop working. I've checked error codes and it is simply showing "databus error received" There is no meaningful errors being stored. Oddly enough, if I restart the car, the issue disappears until the following day. Funnily enough, it only started occuring a month after my warranty expired... I've looked for any parts revisions on the steering column module and clock spring and apparently my specific part number (5Q1953521AG) has two revisions but unsure on coding. Any thoughts on this would be great, thanks!

Does your car have keyless entry on all doors? If so, swap the handle from front to back and see if the problem persists. It's typically the actual capacitive element inside the handle fails, if the error doesn't follow the handle, most likely a wiring issue unfortunately.

Kessy can absolutely be switched off, both temporary and permanently by coding. There is caveats though; Start/stop will stop working as the car can no longer speak to the key when coming to a stop. You'll need to hold the key to the start button after pressing it so the car can detect it and authorize startup, this is the fallback that is used for a dead battery. I've done it before with obdeleven but disabled it as I actually like start/stop and can't be assed presenting my key each time; Control Units > Central Electrics > Adaption > "Keyless access and start authorization" > Kessy from "Installed" to "Not Installed" Yes, I took the risk of not being able to start my car for curiosity but had confidence (and prior read the manual) that there was a backup.

Hi Ian, not sure if you're still around here. Pretty sure I have the same engine as yours (DFHA?) Was the pipe replaced in this last reply the root cause of the leak? I'm currently having a pretty slow loss of coolant, takes about 3 months to empty a tank but I've previously never had to fill a coolant tank between coolant services on any VW group vehicle. It also worries me that it may suddenly get worse when I'm not the main driver. No sign of head gasket issues, car otherwise runs spot on.

I had this occur the other day and the car was only sat for 3 hours, I think the numbers they quoted were just from a customer complaint and they've went with that. Providing the car has been started that day at some point, if it has been parked for ~3hours+ I will always get this.

This is my first petrol car which could be why I noticed these things, I've only had modern diesels previously and they started and ran the same each time without any sort of hesitation or jittery idle.

It's a TSB that can be seen in Erwin, unfortunately you need to pay to access Erwin.

I got new coils recently and spark plugs, this completely solved the hesitation. Rough idle is only there with a hot restart after 2-3 hours but this is a documented (normal) issue to do with the catalytic converter. Cold starts are completely fine now. Note: I changed spark plugs at the start of this thread, that alone didn't fix the issue.

Turn off the air conditioning, pretty certain that's the noise it makes.

I'll need to investigate the area further from what Wino quoted with the MKI fabia. Sad to see they haven't addressed the issue over 3 iterations of the car, no doubt there will be a revised seal for the door available just like the revised number plate lights which have a better seal to prevent the boot corroding from the inside out.

Yep, you are correct in thinking that the bonnet release handle is blocked by the passenger door panel. No doubt it is on that side with both LHD and RHD models and they use the same setup to reduce cost. It's a big pain when you are tight in the garage with this, the cable is also known to snap right at the latch with VW group! As for the Negative, the Fabia has a little connection point just behind the battery which is nice.

It's definitely one of the worst dealership repairs I've seen so far, quite sad that this would be classed as a "warranty" level repair! I used a combination of Heat shrink solder with additional weatherproof heatshrink around these for a good seal. Something like these; https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/halfords-heat-shrink-solder-sleeves-red-hef609-173534.html I've used them a couple of times before and they tend to be more solid than any crimp connection and they are waterproof, yet to have any show signs of failing and that's with external wires. Topped it off with some harness tape and you wouldn't notice a repair was done, properly protected this time!

Trickle charger is definitely the best way to go, you can keep the battery at a happy voltage and be ready to go without any issues. I'd say it's worth the small one time investment over an expensive EFB or AGM battery as they are extremely unhappy by being too low in voltage. I left my car for 2 weeks while I was away on holiday, it ruined my battery and couldn't hold a proper charge again (in fairness, it was 5 years old which might have been a factor)

I've had my fair share of ABS issues over the years with varying vehicles, this one is new to me. When I bought my car, it was still within the last 6 months of manufacturer warranty and also had full Skoda service history therefore I assume any work was done under warranty. Dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree on Wednesday, Got the OBDEleven tool on the car and was immediately pointed to Left Rear ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Open Circuit/Short Circuit C101C14 and some other angry modules. As usual, this throws everything off with the car so I immediately went to the usual culprit, bought an ABS sensor (silly me). Installed, cleared the codes and went on my way. The next day it had reappeared! I laid myself our a process of checking fuses, testing the abs sensor and checking the pins on the module side of the loom - Nothing! Started digging into the wiring around the rear seat area, after some digging around I finally found a spot that triggered the chime on the dash. Started unclipping the areas and noticed some simple tape and crimped wires from a previous repair that wasn't weather proofed (wish I had took a before unwrapping picture). I noticed a slight bit of condensation around that area due to the cold metal and the copper corrosion is what caused all the issues, the black wire broke when I touched it. Long story short; This is the second thing Skoda has handled terribly so far, I done a better repair in a driveway than they originally did.

Unfortunately not, you can get standard cruise control with a stalk change and ODIS to code in the SWaP activation code. Once you figure out the stalk based on your PR codes, you can get a stalk, code and programming service all in for about £250. There is a difference in ABS modules for the ones with ACC and I've also tried enabling parts myself with the "ACC" (Front assist radar) module refusing to accept coding (perhaps another VW lockout code). Not willing to spend £200-£400 for an ABS module and experiment just yet.

For anyone in the future, I've done the research into this and the car lacks both the switches and the appropriate wiring. Wire connects to a different connection on the motor as seen in the 4 door version which can have the drivers window only with 2 step buttons. I also looked into possibly rolling up/down windows with remote but there is a wire missing between the BCM and drivers door module. Might try experimenting with swapping switches in the future and adding the LIN wire for remote control, I have my doubts that this will work though.

If OBDEleven is anything to go by, it is proprietary software that runs with the tool to do more advanced modifications. You need to ask yourself if it worth risking non approved methods to save a bit of money with the risk of nuking a module that could reach into thousands of £?

Is the fan actually blowing a reasonable amount of air or is it just passive? I get a tiny amount of passive air coming in when the fans are off but nothing like when the fan is on. Does adjusting the speed do anything? It's possible the contacts have somehow shorted inside the controller module, this specific dial isn't computer controlled but the rest have some links to the computer inside the module.

AAWireless? If so, I have the same thing and it causes random disconnect issues. This is an issue with the module, not the car. Send logs to the creator of the module and hope they can find a better VW fix.

Welcome to my life of idle judder, have had it since I got the car nearly 4 years ago. I've replaced sparkplugs, filters and done an inspection for carbon build up but nothing out of the norm. The MST turbo intake does help alleviate the problem when changing gears or pulling away The car isn't a diesel and will require a bit of revs to get going, the engine usually bumps the revs a bit automatically if you are too low which can be seen as stuttering/makes the car jumpy. For a smooth pull away, I usually target 2-2.5k RPM. Annoying but required. I too came from diesel before this and still haven't perfected pulling away.