steevs

You might find that the wiring from the airbag connector to the steering column module for multi function steering wheel doesn't exist. If you have speed limiter, wiring for cruise control should already be there. Otherwise, you'll be running wires to the BCM and to the ECM to get it working. You'll also need someone that can enable SWAP codes as it is closed behind a paywall. The best bet is to get a full build spec for your car by using Erwin and putting your VIN in for vehicle specific information. (This will cost a flat rate of about £8 for 1hr access) This can provide us with PR codes that can be used to figure out what currently exists in your car and what will need to be changed.

ACC can't be retrofitted without getting a new ABS module and possibly hacking protection on your existing front radar. I recently got standard cruise control fitted and tried to upgrade it to ACC but the front radar won't let you enable the ACC coding as that probably relies on some other SWAP code or a specific module. You will need a different stalk and activation code for switching speed limiter to standard cruise control. This is dependant on the equipment of your car, I suggest using https://www.skoda-parts.com/ Add your car to the garage and it will ONLY show the correct cruise control kit for your car.

Apparently the battery management system needs reset every time you change the battery as it adapts over time while the battery slowly degrades. Think this adapts the way it charges (may supply more power). Not sure how true this is as I've always adapted mine via OBDEleven on any cars that had a battery management system. In short, no you won't need a main dealer to code it - Some people on here may be nearby and willing to help!

Does your Fabia have rear electric windows? Fabias with only front electric windows do not have direct communication with the BCM, there is no wire for this. I assume the coding is to tell the motor which type of vehicle it is installed to as there will be variances in wiring, window sizes and they may or may not have communication with the BCM which supports closing via remote (Hence why the drivers window in the 4 door electric window option can be closed via remote) As for battery; Coding is used to tell the battery management system the expected capacity of the battery and chemical makeup as to not overcharge or undercharge the battery, different technologies such as AGM use higher charging rates than your standard battery which would obviously be bad for a regular battery. this can also help your car intelligently switch things off if it detects your voltage getting too low.

I've got oil buildup in the same area, I think this is where the PCV feeds into, have had it since I got the car 3 years/ 20k miles ago.

My phone would only work after enabling USB debugging followed by setting the default USB settings in the developer options to File Transfer or MTP. From a Home screen, swipe up to display all apps. Navigate: Settings > System > Advanced. Developer options. If Developer options isn't available, navigate: Settings > About phone then tap Build number 7 times. Tap the Back icon to Settings then select System > Advanced > Developer options. Ensure that the Developer options switch (upper-right) is turned on . Tap USB debugging to turn on or off . If prompted with 'Allow USB debugging?', tap OK to confirm.

Mine does the same and I hate it. Cold day, cold start, lumpy idle. Hot day, hot start, lumpy idle. Moderate day, hot start, sporadically lumpy idle. I've replaced spark plugs, can't replace the fuel filter as it is in the lifter pump. Not the air filter as I replaced that followed by a full MST setup - no difference other than slightly smoother pulling away/less jerky I'm going to start investigating boost leaks followed by checking the valves for carbon build up as this is not normal.

Pretty straightforward job, see attached photos (works the same for LHD and RHD)

I'd definitely opt for OBDEleven, over the 5 years I've had the tool it has more than paid back what it was worth. Have programmed 4 different vehicles for more features, retrofitted a newer radio to a caddy, automatic headlights to my Fabia 3 and it was the tool that allowed me to fully replace my tailgate which had rust with a newer 2018 tailgate that had different regplate lights. I'm going to be retrofitting cruise control to the caddy in a couple of weeks and this tool gives me confidence without a doubt, the history feature is especially useful if you need to rollback any changes.

Hi all, I've been researching into retrofitting cruise control to my Fabia. I have all the prices and parts ready to buy, however it is required that you use the ODIS tool to actually enable the cruise control feature. Does anyone know of dealers in Scotland that won't actively rip you off for a 5 minute job with the code already at hand? I've heard the stealership asking £450+ for cruise control when I can buy the part and code myself for roughly £200, the FEC part is the only part I can't do. Thanks

This is definitely sounding more and more like a bad earth, you will need a detailed wiring diagram and a few days to diagnose or allow a garage to do this for you. If you have a code scanner, there might be stored errors giving you a rough indication of what is happening.

I think it depends on the year and your luck, I've gone ahead and replaced my tailgate as Skoda wasn't budging and ombudsman is a 6 month turnaround. Newer tailgate has LEDs which have a much tighter seal and an extra little rubber gasket, cost me £190 and a full day of disassembling and reassembling the rear of the car and coding in the new lights. Also lost my Monte Carlo spoiler as they are non reusable (the adhesive is almost impossible to remove and I cracked the spoiler when trying) Check the inside of your door, the trim comes off with one screw and a pry tool - you can then see the inside of the lights, there should be no dirt or water build-up inside the door

Sorry to pull this old thread from the dead. Any tips on fighting Skoda with this issue? I noticed mine rusting almost 3 months ago, took a month to get an inspection on the rust by them due to covid. Took almost another month for thier decision which then said "previous service did not say inspection". I can't find any of thier live warranty policies saying the car needs to be inspected by them exclusively (is that even legal?) And my car was serviced locally due to covid limitations. Noticed the current manual for the 2015 fabia states that cavities are protected from corrosion by a lifetime wax that does not need to be inspected or renewed.

How did they go? I've been looking at ones with the exact specs as yours (not the same wheels). Did they cause scrubbing issues and also, how much was your car lowered?

Does it only happen when you dry steer (steering while stationary)? If so, you really shouldn't be dry steering. It could also be the clock "spring", it is a coil of ribbon cables inside your steering wheel that could be hopping slightly when dragging against the inside of the steering wheel when turning back to the center

Keep us posted, I was looking at 18s with a similar offset. Keen to know if they scrub or not

Ok, it looks like if you provide 12v on Pin 3 and a ground on Pin 2 that it should give signals out depending on how you have the switch set. Pin 2 = Ground Pin 3 = 12v Pin 4 = Input of intermittent wiper switch -E22- (1st stage) Pin 5 = Input of intermittent wiper control -E38- (I think this is the adjustable stage due to the potentiometer or variable resistor symbol) Pin 6 = Input of intermittent wiper switch -E22- (2nd stage) Pin 7 = Input of rear wiper switch -E34- From this, it seems like you should be able to diagnose via a multimeter - it doesn't seem like this "module" uses LIN or CAN to communicate but instead individual wires.

I'd definitely do some diagnostics first, swapping out the BCM often isn't the easiest thing to do and can require recoding it exactly the same as your old one. I'll pull the wiring diagram up and try figure out what the pins do as you may be able to do some checks with a multimeter.

Front wipers seem to be mainly controlled directly from the BCM. it has no direct connection to the stalk from what I can see inside the wiring diagram. This would explain why you can still trigger it through diagnostics and why no errors are showing, it seems like there is still an issue with the stalk or the wiring somewhere along the line back to the BCM. The stalk seems to have one point of ground which is indicated by T10a/2, this feeds back to a bunch of ground points but your problem could lie in that T10a connector. It is possible it is instead grounding through the reverse motor as that has its own, I doubt that would cause this issue. Check all the connectors again as it is possible the BCM is only running on the last know settings. Can you use the sprayers on front or rear?

I found the best way to access the wiring is to actually fully remove the driver seat, I have retrofitted automatic lights to my late 2015 Monte by adding wiring to the BCM. You also get a little more movement once you have removed the connectors from their casing (there is two plastic clips you can pry open and slide the connectors out) - There is 2 connector blocks in the casing for T73c.

Based on the guess that you have a car with "Basic equipment" and the J533 module built into the BCM, you can still get Can Extended from the J519 module. As you can see below, Pin 41 and Pin 40 on the T73c connector are CAN extended. Be warned, your best bet is to get the wiring diagram and study it 3 times over. one misplaced wire could fry one of the main modules for your car. Also, compare the PR numbers like I mentioned before to the numbers in the wiring diagram.

More digging, Just found this in the workshop manual area of Erwin; Apparently behind the glovebox on newer models but don't quote me (why does the fitting location show differently!)

Just furthering this conversation, curiosity killed me. I got the July 2018 onwards wiring diagram, J533 is where you pointed it out in the first post. However, this is equipment dependant, some "basic equipment" setups have the J533 built into the J519 module. To help you out more, we will need the PR codes for your car. this can be found also in erwin after paying the flat fee and entering your vin > Vehicle specific information > Vehicle data. It will look something like this; What exactly do you need access to the Extended Canbus for? There is other locations where you can hook in if you can't seem to find this module.

I assume you'll need an updated wiring diagram, this also includes fitting locatios. You can purchase them for a flat rate at the skoda erwin portal; https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Navigate to "Vehicle Specific Information" and you will be required to pay a flat rate for 1hr access, input your vin then click Individual Vehicle Information > Repair information > Select your model > Circuit Diagram > Download the "Basic Equipment form July 2018"

J519 is the onboard control unit, this is found just below where the drivers side vent is. You can see it from below the dashboard and also see it by removing the vent, light switch and side panel where the door jams. The module is positioned upside down and held in place by some clips near the top of the holder.