grumpy1

I don't know if it's relevant but I had a problem with a Yamaha FJR 1300 where the ABS light would light consistently at 70 mph. I took the mounting bolt out to find the sensor seized solidly in the housing so I warmed it up and soaked it in penetrating oil but it wouldn't move so I left the bolt out thinking that it might work free in time as I rode the bike. It didn't, but the light didn't come on again so I replaced the bolt slightly looser thinking that maybe the bolt was distorting the sensor body and the light came back on. I the then fitted a plastic bolt (for effect for the MOT!) The light didn't play up for 3 years until the sensor completely failed and I had to break it out. New sensor, problem solved. The diagnostics said "rear sensor" so I had a good idea from the outset where the fault lay.

I had a similar problem on my 2007 MK1 Fabia and eventually traced it to a loose-ish multi-plug to the door switch pack. Zip tie cured it for last 5 years.

If you've replaced the sensor and checked the wiring for continuity back to the ABS module then you should try and get hold of a used module. I don't know if you need to remove the ABS unit to access the screws but the module should be separate to the ABS unit. It's a long time since I had to do this.

Maybe failed ABS control module, common on Volvo 700 series. Break in circuit board. The Volvo uses similar set up.

Do I see the standard clutch pedal repair?

If my seat was stuck so that my wife wasn't able to slide it forwards she wouldn't be able to reach the pedals. You probably wouldn't want to be sharing the road with someone who wasn't in proper control of their vehicle!

Breezy Pete, Rivnuts seem like a good solution and I've considered it, but is there a danger of the flanges on the rivnuts holding the panel away from the door and allowing water leaks?

Had a problem with 2006 TDi 'stumbling' on acceleration, high idle speed occasional loss of power. I found that the retaining clip on the multi-plug to the MAF sensor was broken and the plug was loose. I made up a retaining clip for it and all problems solved.

Inside the larger pipe is a coiled spring wrapped into a circle (you can imagine it as an 'O' ring) When you push the pipes together the ring is forced to expand over the flange on the pipe and locks it in place. I've separated them using an old fluorescent tube starter. Cut the end off, split down the side and push into the connector while pulling the pipes apart. I think the last one I did I used the body of an old felt tip pen. Once you've done one all will become clear.

At my age I'm allowed to!

I'm surprised that nobody has pointed out that if your MOT tester spots that you've tampered with the emission control system it's a fail.

NTA16 I'm not sure what you mean by inspectors manual. The MOT guide is still available but this really covers the requirements and responsibilities of running an MOT station. The tester's manual specifies what has to be tested, how to test it and the possible reasons for rejection. I think this warrants an advisory note describing the missing components for future reference.

Quote from MOT manual (freely available online) "You do not need to test ; a belt fitted with no corresponding seat @

As has been said, get a computerised four wheel alignment done. This will give you a report on the entire front end geometry. If they've loosened the wishbone mountings that would put all the alignment out.

Can you not just switch traction control off? We used to switch off traction control to left foot brake for bedding in new brake pads.