Aspman

Probably unrelated but are you a low mileage driver? Does the car sit unused for a few days regularly? Might be low battery charge, stick it on a trickle charger and se if it helps.

Even the best automatice isn't directly connected to your brain the way your left leg and left arm are. Whether that matters or not depends on personal preference and skill. Many people do not drive well enough to beat the autobox ever. Other people have skill and want the control/entertainment of a manual. Even if you have the skill often you might want to take the lazy option. And as mentioned mnay times the option might not be available to you in the car you want. Also also, this is a car enthusiasts forum. Most people don't care, we're the odd ones out.

Is it a private road? That might make things complicated. i.e. did you have to go down that road, is there an expectation you might have encountered pot holes on the road? Did your employer force you to go down that road? You need to establish who is the culpable party, and then you need to establish negligence. You would also need evidence such as detailed photographs of the hole wth some form of measurement (CDs used to be a good reference point). I suspect you are facing an uphill challenge however...... small claims (or simple process) is low to no risk to you. You will have to pay a small amount in line with your claim but no risk of being hit with expenses if you loose. If they don;t show up you win by default but then you have to get your money. Just because you win doesn't mean they will pay.

You really need a car that suits the autobox that is in it, and tbh that doesn't often work. Or the custom gearbox software is terrible. I've had a number of autos and I think bar one they've all had pretty much the same gearbox My autos - BMW 335d, ZF 8 speed - brilliant, felt like a perfect match, only rarely did the box seem to get it wrong with a weird double shift down. Range rover 3.0 V6 (275), ZF 8 speed - Also really good, no issues or weirdness even off road. Mini Countryman JCW, ZF 8 speed - Awful, changed down at the drop of a hat, hesitant to up shift. Works best if you drove the car like it was being stolen but even then clunky and rough. Maserati 3.0 V6d, ZF 8speed (see a pattern), OK not as good as the first two but not bad, occasional sluggish downshift Subaru Outback CVT - Meh, it's a dull car to drive and the box is also pretty dull, does what it needs but clunky setting off or pulling out at junctions. We have manuals and autos in the house still. Manual for fun, auto for day to day.

Partitioning drives is still a PITA. Actually it's maybe worse than it was as the Windows partitioning tools are disfunctional now and Linux ones still feel like you need a PhD in maths to work out.

Can’t see easily without removing the bracket. The car does have start/stop built in so i goes it will be an EFB or I’ll get an EFB to replace

Battery should have been 100% charged. Had a long (80mile) run the other day and it’s been on the charger since. Might just change the battery anyway. They are not too silly prices for the Subaru. The car is very low mileage for age (21k in 5yr) so may have had the battery discharged in the past

Tried this. Charger showing full battery. At 12.1v with the charger idle. Voltage dropped to 10.1V when cranking. Up to 14.3V with engine running. Any advice on the numbers welcome. Got a lidl multi meter at the weekend so possibly can do more now.

I did have multimeter but operator error casued it to blow up 🫣 Good call on the V drop on cranking. Charger does have a V display.

I’ve not got kit to test tbh.

Went to start the car today and it was odd. I opened the boot and the alarm went off (I had key). Got in hit start and the dash lights came on and flickered and the engine didn't even turn over. I don't do many miles at all now and the subaru has a quite a significant draw on the battery so the thought that the battery had drained didn't seem that odd (been through learning process that the power tailgate goes funky with a slight voltage drop). I have a booster so I hooked that up and the car started first time. I'm still thinking flat battery. Drive the car into the garage and hook up the charger. It has a test mode and I ran that first....battery 77%. Let it charge for 10 min the got in a tried again, car started no problem. Drove to the tip (with booster) and car started again no problem leaving that. Got home, washed cars and went to put Subaru back in the garage. Again started no problem. Hooked up the charger again and this time the test said 66%. I've left the car on the charger now (I usually do bth due to lack of use). I'm wondering if the battery might be on the way out. It's 5yr old. I know the tests can be misleading with chargers showing a dud battery as good.

Ooh missed this. Big Linux fan here, started using Slackware and YellowDog back in the early 2000s. Built a free proxy web filter for a school I worked at using Squid and DansGuardian. My desktop went EoL for W11 with the TCM2 issue and tbh I dislike and distrust W11 a lot so rather than throwing some perfecty usable kit away (Ryzen 7 processor, 32Gb ram and 2Tb SSD) I have switched it to Lunux. I started using PoP!OS as this was suppsoed to be the most compatible with NVidia kit out the box. I liked the interface a lot but it did have a lot of issues that were a PITA to fix most notably the NVidia drivers, which were supposed to be the OSs MO. Gave up after a while and went easy mode by installing Mint. TBH nearly 100% problem free. Gaming still a bit of a hit or a miss and I think my particular gfx card (and old 1060) might not be the most compatible. but for everything else it's solid. My laptop is runing W11 but when that finishes it will go to Linux as well. I lucked out and pumped the RAM in it before the prices started to rise. Even more as I bought a thick ol' workstation style Lenovo and it's had free slots for more memory and an MM2 1Tb SSD. If you're stuck with Linux or having issues it's one of the things that AI is very good at helping you with. It's amusing that you can get Copilot to help you build a Linux system to get you away from it.

The government is very good at making loud noises abut speeding, not so good at enforcement. Easy to get a camera on a motorway where (in normal/good conditions) speeding presents little harm. try to get speed enforement in an urban area and it's all too expensive or too hard, lots of hand wringing no action. We've had dealths now on our 40mph road, proven eveidence of speeding at up to 263%of the limit (105 in a 40), and nothing gets done other than a visit from hi vis plod once every 4 months and they are required to make themselves obvious so only the terminally stupid get caught.

Our ID3 went to the dealer and they found nothing in the codes in the car, so as far as they could tell there was nothing wrong. There is no deeper logging on the car which you might (I did) expect on a car that is so heavily filled wth IT kit. What they did tell me (dealer was good actually not knocking them) was that is was a VW technical bulletin. That bulleting basically says the car is incompatible with smart charging. Their solution was to charge it at an on demand charging station as that doesn't rely on the car having to wake up. That this is 5-10x as expensive wasn't really considered in the 'solution'. However, they did do a software update while the car was in and lo' it is much less of an issue. It's only failed a couple of times and hasn't left us unable to use the car so far. You might find that software update has largely fixed it. It still refuses to release the cable regularly (3x unlock clicks fixes but a faff), the app still doesn't tell me the battery capacity of the car. I can guess from the Ohme app now how much charge the car has taken but I have to catch it either side of midnight or it resets.

Yep mentioned that one above, not sure we hate it £2k

She normally does or did bundle it into the car as it's that or leave it lying in the drive. Admittedly now she's p2ssed off with it enough she does leave it lying on the ground in the drive.

This was the thing I originally was thinking of but couldn't find. Still £300 for a restractable washing line. https://www.ecowizard.co.uk/electric-vehicle-charger-accessories/cable-up-cable-management/

they do exist but look expensive https://wepoweryourcar.com/about/chargearm/

PIR just makes it easier for the scumbags to work. Non-drying security paint would prbably work better.

she still needs to wind up the cable and get her hands wet/dirty, it would be easier to store. I think some form of extention arm is the thing. I had thought about it before and wondered if i could get the local engineering firm/fabricators to do something.

And this is fugly but might do the trick for less. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Barkan-Protective-Charging-Weatherproof-Retractor/dp/B0DTV6QGNR?th=1

Tihs would be the thing but not for £1400 https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/5095360-8m-7-4kw-type-2-spring-return-ev-cable-reel-ip44

We need about 5m of cable so not sure a curly one would work. I've seen support wires but they were £300 or something rediculous. Might just be a hose hanger and a padlock that is the thing to do it.

SWMBO's biggest bugbear with the EV is the cable. We have to charge outside due to the mandated location of he charging point. She hates dealing with a cable that is cold, wet, often dirty and needs to be rolled up and put in the car every time (seperate cable and charger). anyone know of any clever cable management ideas?

Not quite VW want you to charge at fixed times, no on demand smart charging. No grid aware charging. Which is the whole point of low EV tariffs to let you use electricity when it’s in surplus wherever that is. Too complex for VW. I’ll be having a word with Octopus though since they’ve specifically leased me a car incompatible with the service they supply and the whole basis on which the car was leased .