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Yes, I have rain/light sensor on my car. I'm just wondering what the 0 = adaptation / 1 = potentiometer setting actually means. It's pretty dark all the time here in Finland right now, so I cannot be entirely sure if the sensor is just being too damn sensitive

Probably yes, but there might be someone here, who's near you and has Vag-Com.

Not possible I think, just either through dealer diagnostic or Vag-Com. On newer cars from MY2007 and onwards, it should be off from the factory.

During summer it usually works ok. But now in winter, when the roads are salted, it usually just smears the windscreen. That was really annoying, and was the main reason I turned it off on my car. It's not too much hassle to do the additional wipe manually if there's a need for it

Yes it can be turned off. I asked about the same thing a few weeks ago. Look here : http://www.briskoda.net/forums/diagnostics-vag-com/help-how-disable-delayed-wipe-using-vag-com-octavia-ii/96220/

I've enabled Coming-Home and Leaving Home lights through VAG-COM, and they work great. Only thing I'm not sure if they work like they should. They should only come on if it's dark enough, but what I've tested, they come on always. I read somewhere that you should change in central electronics, this one to potentiometer setting to actually get it to notice the variances in outside brightness, right? I think in my case it's currently in Adaptation setting.Byte 02 Bit 4Coming-Home via(1 = Potentiometer / 0 = Adaptation) I do have the auto-dimming rearview mirror and rain sensor. But do I need the light assist switch also for this setting to work? Thanks.

I'm sorry to hear that. Keep pressing the dealer if you bought the car new. There has to be a solution to your problem. It sounds like the clutch is "sticking" but why it's doing that only on 1st and 2nd gear.

Any updates on this ?

Maybe a stupid question, but has the dealer made the throttle body alignment? New Octavia has an electronic accelerator pedal so the TBA has to made everytime the battery has been disconnected for example.

No need for this anymore, works. Was just a matter of finding a better grounding spot and resetting fault codes with VAG-COM Here's how it looks :

Could someone please help me source a new instrument cluster that has the Maxi-Dot display. I'm considering a retrofit, as I currently have the basic car computer display only. I would need an instrument cluster in Km/h, my engine is 1.6 FSI gasoline. Local shop asks for 609 Euros for a new instrument cluster. Quite expensive I think... I would be very grateful for any information. Thanks.

Very true, and very well argumented by the way. That's true that the main beams are actually used very rarely, when compared to dipped beam. But I still think that there's a small risk of burning your reflector surface. Everyone can decide by themselves are they willing to take that small risk. In our country the 100W bulbs are quite rare. Most of the people here either go for +30% or +50% bulbs or even aftermarket HID kits.

I'll think of something, possibly Bit by Bit..... I think that the problem with the 100W bulb is the heat dissipation compared to standard 55 W bulb. Of course with bad quality bulbs the UV problem is there also.

Yes, all true. I think the biggest problem with bad quality aftermarket HID kits and 100W bulbs are the reflector burning. 100W bulb can burn your reflectors to a nice brownish caste in a very short amount of time. But also so can bad quality HID kits if there's no UV protection on the bulb glass. Anyway, the bottom line on both of these is that they both have their share of risks, and both are very illegal on road use But hey, all the things we are prepared to do, just to see better and drive safer.

Thanks to TallioN's excellent instructions, I braced myself and did this mod today. Only difference is that I used normal 3mm green Led's instead the OEM part's. It was much cheaper than the OEM parts. They would've cost me over 100 euros for the 4 doors and they would've gone to factory order. So no thanks. All in all, pretty easy and simple to do. Took something like 3,5 hours total. Thanks to Malfean for his advice to use of correct led's. I'll post pictures when I have time to take them Edit : Oh, and one note. Like dstev2000 mentioned earlier, for some reason the rear door illumination is brighter than on the fronts. It seems to be a feature of the car, as the connections, led positioning etc. are exactly the same in fronts and rears. Maybe preventing the driver from being distracted by a too bright illumination or something?

Yes, that's something I'm well aware of. The problem is that when having separate main xenons, they're not "warmed" liked in bi-xenon setups, so they take longer to have their full light output available. I've been using this setup over 6 months, and not a single problem. I'm using the lights as I would use normal main beams, I'll flash them, burn them etc. Just like normal halogens. I can almost bet my balls that people using 100W bulbs are going to have more issues than people using retrofitted HID kits. Actually, that's pretty much correct method. Usually the headlamp fuse is 10AMP and for the HID kit's you should use 15AMP fuses. Most of the kits sold here in Finland include the new fuses

With 100W bulbs you only destroy your reflectors and possibly your car electronics. I would suggest you fit a nice aftermarket HID kit to mains also. That's what I've done and the light output is excellent. What comes to the mains pointing up to the tree tops, that seems to be a common problem. As the thread starter instructed, it's easily adjusted. I adjusted the mains way down. I think in my case, the top of the main beam pattern is just a little over the top of the low beam cutoff. It gives a nice uniform white field in front of the car and the visibility is great.

Are you sure the color code is enough? What I understood from the site is that you actually need to have the exact shark fin for your car as the slope of the roof is different, and the fins are made to match the slope exactly. It's a shame that there's no Skoda's available on the compatible car list.... But they are stating that if you contact them and inform which car you would like to have the fin to, they'll make one, even if it's a custom one. Oh, and there was someone who was doubting if the 3M adhesive would actually hold. If they're using the industrial grade 3M 2-compound adhesive, I can promise that the roof of the car comes off first than the antenna. We've used that in our company to attach few steel cabinet components together and they're pretty much impossible to detach afterwards

Not always. If the steering limit adaptation hasn't been done after basic setting, the light stays amber and there's no steering assist. Actually, first center the steering, then fully left, then fully right, and then center the steering again. The light goes out as soon as you get in range of +-10 degrees from the center position. But this only works if the basic setting for the steering assist is done and it waits for the steering limit adaptation. On Ross-Tech's WIKI there's a small error in the instructions for centering the steering after adjustment. After doing the basic setting and car engine still running, you have to turn the ignition off and then start the car again and only after then you can do the steering limit adaptation. If you do it straight after the basic setting without turning the ignition off, it doesn't register the adaptation and a fault code for "no basic setting done" appears on steering assist module. And it probably is not a G85 sensor fault on your case, as if it was, then the ESP light would stay on and you'd lose all the ESP functionality.

It should have the warning light and a warning chime when the indicator lights up. Mine has, and I don't have maxidot. There's a warning indicator on the dash just under the small car computer display.

Theresias, thank you. You're advice worked like a charm. No more delayed wipe. Now I can enjoy nice and clean glass without the smearing last wipe. Thanks again.

I have a 1.6FSI and it does the same. Especially when the engine is warming up. So you don't have the only "haunted" car

Thank you. I'll try today. Does it matter which version of the controller I have?

Could someone help me. I want to disable the delayed wipe after washing the windscreen. It's a very annoying feature especially now when they're salting the roads heavily here in Finland. I tried to find the instructions from Ross-tech's site and from here, but all I could find were instructions for Fabia. My OctaviaII is MY05 and I have access to CAN-capable VAG-COM. Thanks for your help.