Whit3Knight

Smart link is activated, this was activated when I had the older screen (only just purchased the new screen) and not remapped anything. Thanks for the reply

Hi, As the title states I’ve upgraded my screen to a 8” glass screen much better definition and bigger visual estate. Only issue I’ve had is the “app” button does nothing…… Is there anything that can be done ? Is it a firmware issue or a mib2 issue any help would be massively appreciated

No mines standard but know folk that have had good results with them

exactly this and I’ll try your method on the other side thank you 🤝

Yes can be found on eBay it’s the little bit at back that’s stops the drone

I’ve recently fitted Michelin sport 5 to my mk3 and the difference from the fulda tire is night and day

Go for a res delete anti drone set up

I’ve recently due to a snapped front spring changed the rears, and set about changing the fronts (driver side first) took my time and soaked all relevant nuts etc and all went well with the removal……. Upon refitting strut was fastened with the x3 13mm top mounts screws tight but not torqued, thanks to the splitting tool bottom of strut fixed into hub….. But for the life of me the splined cv won’t go into the hub, the top drop link looks about 1.5-2 inch short of the mounting and the driveshaft seems to touch bottom of strut. Any ideas ? Got soaked trying to sort 😭

Hi been to have a look at a Skoda Octavia VRs (2016) 2.0tsi petrol I use my Carista to scan the car and it came up with the following are they an easy fix ? The garage is taking care of this, but wanted advice on the route cause of both codes pic attached (hopefully) I’m moving on from a Skoda Fabia VRs mk2 dsg

Bit of an update as such………. Compression test showed uniformity across all cylinders, I supplied x4 ngk spark plugs, oil was changed along with filter to 5w-40 fully synthetic. I also replaced the air filter (Bosch) it’s early to tell if it’s made a difference as haven’t covered too many miles yet. Mechanic said to drive more enthusiastically as the engines prefer this ? Sorry it’s a bit of a late update, but only just had work carried out time I guess will tell Good call this something you’ve done yourself ?

In theory slightly thicker oil should make some difference ? Some have reported so ? would you happen to know the compression values ? And I presume I am looking at cylinder 3 plug ? For fouling

What’s my realistic action plan once oil changed to 5w-40 I’m doubtful it will be the magic cure ?

Brilliant your waging on pistons ?

Right lads apologies for delay in replying been stupidly busy at work and home…….. I’m still waiting on when I can take car to garage for above work ( due to my work commitments) and the wife’s who’s going to follow me across so I’m not sat for hours twiddling my thumbs. driving the car today I was in 7th not accelerating as on a gradual decline section of road, then I accelerated not harsh acceleration quite the opposite and a plume of blue smoke came out twice when I repeated the action💨 Does this point to the turbo more that the pistons ? Obviously I’m hoping it’s not the pistons for obvious financial reasons……

I’ll go for the denso ones you recommend and I’ll purchase through Ophir as don’t want risk of snide! Didn’t realise regarding sc and turbo everyday a school day. Thanks for all info I’ll report back when I get a date to take car in, once again thanks for input and taking time to reply very much appreciated 👏🏻🤝

Yes an occasional blue ish when off load then back on load say coming down a normal road then turning left onto an incline, or when foot put down (happens very rarely putting foot down) how would I know if it was seals can it be visually checked ? 100% it’s a cthe I spent a lot of time searching for what on paper was a good one…… Hopefully it’s something relatively simple like a turbo seal, but from my research the turbo kicks in after the supercharger, as in later up the rev range so would it kick out blue smoke in the scenario I gave above ? I mention that because it seems to always do that there……. As for spark plugs I’m getting a little confused as what’s best now ngk, denso etc 🙃 Thanks for the reply much appreciated 🤝

Hi and thanks for the information and taking the time out to reply! The dsg oil change was requested by me as a safe guard (I know these are meant to be sealed for life) but that never sits well with me. The car since my ownership has always been ran on super unleaded from Tesco (I hate the price difference) but believe the positives outweigh the costs involved. As you and the other guy that replied have said I’m going to return to the garage have the oil changed 5w-40 and oil filter and have the compression tests done (don’t suppose you have the benchmark compression ratios ?) and also supply a full set off spark plugs (NGKsizfr6b8eg) as believe these to be the best option? I don’t know if the gearbox has had the update you mention would that have an effect on oil consumption? I presume it’s a contact Skoda dealers to check ? also I get an occasion puff of blue smoke when in lower gears and going uphill and I mean very occasional nothing on start up ? Car is always allowed to warm up and given 30 seconds to a minute before been turned off much thanks for your reply and any further advice is most welcome “Thanks”

Thanks for the reply and offering advice on keeping my wallet in my pocket……… I don’t intend to spend £1000’s just hope for a better consumption and ultimately it not blow up, 55k would that be considered low mileage ? Age wise yes,

Hi Everyone, Purchased a Skoda Fabia VRs 2013 plate, I didn’t do this blind and new there may be issues so went for a fsh example and insisted on a dsg oil change (proof supplied) to hopefully lessen the risk……. i must point out the dealer (not Skoda) is been great about it all !!! So the car uses roughly a litre of oil every 350 miles and I’ve had it 3-4 months now, this is down on Skoda guidance of 600 ish miles per 500ml of oil. The car has now 55k and as mentioned fsh, it’s also booked into dealers garage for 5w-40 vw spec oil and filter change and compression check (at my request) also he is going to check turbo for oil seals etc. I’ve read that switching from 5w-30 to 5w-40 can help with its consumption, but upon contacting Skoda they agreed the consumption is above spec, and said for £250 they could do an oil consumption check, for £1500 replace oil breather, inlet pipes and x4 oil squirters, but would not guarantee it would address the issue, or 5-6k for an engine. I must point out the car doesn’t have hard life and very rarely gets pushed (not even had it in sport) as I’m 50 years wiser now….. As the car drives and performs as it should my questions are…… Do I just accept it drinks oil and top up when needed little and often, it’s always going to have fresh oil (obviously I’ll service it every 5-8k regardless) what’s the options to look at first cheapest to dearest? What are the official fixes (presume the ones Skoda recommended above) all advice welcome and does this group have a designated expert on this engine?

No there isn’t any fitted but I’ve just ordered a set from flea bay, did they make a difference ?

The outer sheaths? I presumed they come with the cables

Good idea!

Morning all, 2006 Skoda Fabia Vrs just mopping up jobs on my Fabia the handbrake travel and efficiency on the drivers side. There’s a gap when off of about 1.5cm rested and it seems to struggle to return to the 1-2mm space rested. This weekend I’ve released 10mm nut behind handbrake, removed calliper and pads, wound piston in and out a few times and checked for free movement on arm lubricated and popped back together but still it refuses once hand brake has been applied to return to the recommended spacing (I did pump the brakes and apply handbrake several times after finishing. So am I best replacing x2 cables or do you think it’s still calliper related ? It freely moved without the cable attached but once cable attached it doesn’t, I didn’t notice that side doesn’t have the protective boot on the wire……