Bingodalton

Give me half an hour, will reply. This is when engine is warm? Guessing by vcds, first value is echaus specified, then exhaust actual, then intake specified, then intake actual. After engine settles from cold start, first one is 0, as well assecond one, third one probably depends on engine. On mine it is 15 or 16 and fourth one shoukd be +/- with third one, fluctuating. For example 14.2, 14.3, 14.2, 14.4,... Check which ones are steady, defined and which ones go up and down.

Give me half an hour, will reply

Maybe I have solution fort this one. I remember you already had a topic with same problem as mine, but I see you have very big SFT and LFT after, so maybe it is not the same problem. I had rough idle when car warms up. That is a point when camshaft adjustment magnets start to work. I thought the problem is with injectors, Fuel trim was going up to 7 on idle, rough idle, misfire on 2. and 3. cylinder (probably most affected cylinders, which can be seen on one of the pictures from Super 280 topic). But did not had misfire while driving. I tried to swap coils, without success. Replaced two MPI injectors (the one working on idle), without success. Then I saw on YouTube a guy remapping Superb 280 and he was checking Camshaft Adjustment Intake Bank 1 Actual and Specified. Specified was 15 or 16, while Actual was going from 0 to 30. They replaced both magnets and after that did remap. This was case with my values too. I have cleaned intake magnet, it was sticky but it was working just half an hour. I already ordered new one and decided to give it a try. Now with new magnet is it totally different. Smooth idle, not to mention smooth gear changes (DSG) which I forgot how they can be smooth. Enjoyment. I am replacing in a few days Exhaust camshaft magnet too, I saw it is not consistent with actual value, not following specified. But not so bad. So, check these values first with VCDS or any other tool. Camshaft adjustment intake actual and specified. Magnet change camshaft position, so it can have more or less air and due to that you get misfire, strange lambda reading and so on... Also, check both O2 sensors. If first sensor is wideband you can see lambda staying around 1 (or I think around 1900mv for tsi) Second sensor should be between 0.2 and 0.7v (probably around 0.390v) Depress the gas pedal and see if both change in opposite direction. As you see on pictures how values go for rich and lean, opposite way. If they are properly working they should move. Also second sensor should be steady on idle, meaning cat is working. If first sensor is narrow band, then both values should go in same direction when you depress gas pedal while standing. If first sensor is narrow band, it should fluctuate at the idle, meaning it is changing from rich to lean, but second one should be steady meaning cat is working. If first one is lazy, then it is not working.

A little bit of help. Number 5 on the screenshot. J should be last revision.

Then this is ok, +/- 1 sound good. Mine was fluctuating +/- 13 without dtc. As other asked, when did you replaced your spark plugs. First thing to do is regular service, oild, filter, spark plugs if it is not done recently. You can change the places of coild plugs. So, move from 4 cylinder to some other, for example 2. See if misfire moves to 2. Cylinder. For fuel pressure, you jave actual and specified, follow this on idle if they are the same within some percentage margin and look if it sudenly drops when it misfires. You can check Short term and Long term fuel trims and see if Long has gone up or down. You can check misfire counter for all cylinders, maybe just 4 is having more misfires, and all other have misfires too, but as it is random, then it is common problem for all 4. Vacuum leak, fuel pump, spark plugs, very dirty air filter,...

Skoda 280 does not have launch counter. Golf has it and it has limitation on number of launches. Taking this info with a phone with gps refresh rate of 1Hz it is very inaccurate. My Stage 1 is doing under 4.3 for 0-100 with a lot of 4wheel spin on winter tyres. Best 0-60 was 3.99 Lower weight Golf do it in 0.3s less for example. Still, it is pretty fast, 0-200 15.5s best time. All messured with 20Hz PGear device (accuracy 0.05s).

I had rough idle on 280 and it was camshaft magnet. Also had misfires on idle, but without faults, just saw them in vcds. Check with vcds if you have camshaft adjustment intake and/or exhaust, actual and specified values. They should be pretty much the same. Is it happening when engine is cold or when it warms up a little bit?

4.5s 0-60mph sounds more like mild Stage 1. How it was measured?

Should not make any without Stage 1. And even after that it is questionable. BMC showed better filtering than K&N, while keeping the same flow. You will gain some noise.

That's unfortunate. Also, 2. and 3. cylinder injector seats look really dirty. I am not sure if I want to see my 280 after 160.000km I am thinking to try Wynn's Multiserve for cleaning intake path.

I do not know if new 280 has mpi injectors like old 280. If they reverted to 2 sets of injectors. I doubt. But old one should be better in cleaning valves.

Mine did not show any faults, it needs to be way off. Just check data. For O2 it is easy to check too. If it is narrowband O2 it should fluctuate up and down from 0.2 to 0.7v on idle. This is for first sensor. Bank 1 sensor 1. This means that O2 is switching from lean to rich and back, which is ok. If there is wideband sensor, then Lambda should be arround 1 (0.98-1.02). I do not know for gen2 engines is it narrow or wide. Sensor 2 should be steady on idle, which means that cat is working. It is narrowband sensor for sure. When you depress gas pedal shortly, both values should change at the same time. For both narrowband both should go up together, while for wideband/narrowband should they go opposite way. Wideband lambda is bellow 1 rich, more than 1 lean. Narrowband sensor is 1-0.5v rich, 0.5-0v lean.

My idle problem on gen3 was with camshaft intake magnet. If you have vcds, tske a look at camshaft adjustment intake bank 1 actual and specified. Specified should be steady and actual not more than +/-2 difference.

The problem will be a camshaft adjuster magnet/solenoid on intake camshaft. If you have vcds take a loot at values of Camshaft adjustment intake bank 1, specified and actual. When warm specified should be around 15 on idle and actual not more than +/-2 difference. You can check exhaust one too, but while driving, as they are 0 on idle. Error is connected with failed part costing 30-60. Eventually could be camshaft valve, but I would start from this one. It is problably stuck or failed. It is easy to replace by urself, just 3 screws.

Great, thanx. Will try that. I guess first option is easier if I figure out how to remove central part with gaiter.

Switches are next step. I tried pulling gaiter and surrounding together, but without success. Guess I have to try harder.

I need help, how to remove number 3 and then number 1 to connect Start Stop Off module? Instruction is not detailed. From where should I start, front, back, should I use some tool, should I pull it from inside, to grab with gaiter?

With 4 additional adults in car, lets say alltogether 480kg, we did 5.1s on bad Bridgestone's which are not good as PS4 ir PS4S. At that time I did 4.4-4.5s alone, so 400kg for 0.6-0.7s.

I had mine 280 remaped to Stage 1 and TCU Stage 1, added intake hose and KN panel filter. Last night i did my best. 13c temp, 3/4 tank, worn 19" summer tyres, so it has slippage: 4.26 to 100km/h, 4.01 to 60mph, 15.59 to 200km/h, 11.33 100-200km/h, 12.37 1/4 mile I expect better times with 18" winter tyres. Before intake and filter I had better time with winter tyres compared to summer set. Adding those two mods decreased 0-100 for 0.1s and 1/4 for 0.07s. Still need to go on dyno, but I guess 370-380.