Teir

I definitely had this problem, almost always when I was trying to wrestle my daughter into her car seat. It was pretty annoying, as I had to park with the car backed up against a wall at the time, so accidental boot openings were not a good thing. I used Carista to disable it. I had to sign up for the one month free trial, but then it was a 'one click' kind of thing - no knowledge or skill required 😁. Haven't missed the ability in the slightest since I disabled it.

@SashaGrace and anyone else who might still be interested, I read a post on drive.ru about this just now. The firmware and dataset needed are there too (for the Kodiaq anyway). Good description of some of the possible issues also. https://www.drive2.ru/l/605879836245782911/

Disconnect the negative terminal of the 12v battery under the bonnet. You will have some errors on the dash afterwards - take a short drive to clear them.

Hey @Nugz, I think this only applies when you're retrofitting the OEM towbar, probably because it needs a larger cut-out in the bumper. The instructions say to remove the virtual pedal antenna, make the cutout, and then re-fit a new one. It's not a different type of antenna, just another of the same type. If your virtual pedal is working at all (even intermittently), then before doing anything drastic I would just play around with where and how you're doing the kick. It's famed for it's flakiness, and adding the hitch receiver may have affected the electrical field or whatever it is that actually detects your foot. You may need to aim your kick in a slightly different place than you previously did, or use a slightly different motion. I suppose the next step after that might be to take your bumper off and see if you can reposition the antenna a little (it's held in place with adhesive, so you'd need some way to stick it back if you take it off - this is likely why they want you to buy a new one). There would be some guesswork involved in deciding how exactly to position it though, and to be honest I have no idea whether it would it help or not. Some more googling might bring up other people's experiences on other forums? Good luck!

Do you mean the dealer is saying the virtual pedal isn't working because of the loose green wires?

OP has factory towbar prep.

Hey, No, not those, sorry! Those wires are something to do with moisture detection during the factory build. They have no use once the car is complete. Tuck them away and forget about them. The towbar prep wiring is much chunkier and isn't visible without removing trim. Yeah, hitches can interfere with the virtual pedal. The instructions for fitting the OEM Skoda hitch tell you to fit a new antenna, because of the cut-out in the bumper.

Definitely odd. By codescanner I mean one of a number of dongles that you can plug into the OBD port under the steering wheel and then use with a phone app to read error codes. OBDeleven is one of the better VAG specific ones: https://obdeleven.com/en/home/187-stand-alone-0758277987851.html (you don't need any credits or subscriptions to read codes, just the device itself). To be honest though, if this issue keeps recurring you are almost certainly going to end up back at the dealers to resolve it, so reading the error codes may not help you that much (and if you do buy something to read the errors, I would advise you not to 'clear' them, as the dealer is going to need all that info in order to figure out what's going on). I would still be suspicious of the battery, personally... Others may have more to say about your key-related idea though. I guess you could try to recreate those circumstances and see what happens?

Interesting. It shouldn't have anything to do with the key being far away, as far as I know. Component protection (CP) comes in to play when one of a number of components is changed, e.g., if you replace your radio head-unit. I take it you haven't done this, so for now you can likely assume it was just a glitch. Is your battery low by any chance? That can produce all sorts of interesting gremlins... If it happens again, plug it into a codescanner like OBDeleven, and see if there are any recorded errors. Or, if you've got a Skoda approved-used warranty, you may want to think about taking it back to the dealer at that point, so that they can have a look at it. Did you notice if the radio was muted while that message was displayed? There would normally be no sound from the stereo if CP was actually active on it.

Check kopacek.com

See page 223 of this workshop manual. Lots of other manuals are available on here, have a browse.

https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan

Hey, yes this should definitely cut down on the work required by the fitter and therefore save you money. Towbar prep means the wiring has been run from the fusebox & BCM back to the boot area. The wires will be behind the left hand trim panel, as you look into the boot from outside.

Hang on, can you first clarify whether you are using an actual AAwireless device (that you plug into the usb port), or are you talking about an MIB3 unit with native android auto wireless?

I seem to recall reading similar accounts, and I think it is probably to be expected in this usage. Lots of heat being generated by both the charging and the high power use from the GPS, and not great airflow across the phone. My phone has never fitted comfortably in the charging pad in my Kodiaq, so I moved to using a phone holder with wireless charging. They typically have an integrated fan, and I've also got mine mounted in front of the A/C vent, which also helps in warmer weather. I've never experienced any over-heating with this, and it's charging at 50w.

They have BGW written on them. They may be this one, or pretty similar: https://www.bgworldwheels.co.nz/catalog/bgw-black-widow[gloss-black]-102971.htmx

Apparently it has a whole 6mm of extra ground clearance! (194mm Vs 188mm). Probably not going to make too much difference going through Rufford Ford 😁

I have the Next Gen / Gen 2 device. It's a very useful tool to have - I always keep it in the car, in the storage compartment next to the steering column, ready to go whenever needed! When you get your device, I recommend doing a full scan of all control units as a backup before you start coding.

Unfortunately they changed the pricing model last year. 25 euro used to buy you Pro for life (I still have this), but if you buy it now it's 25 per year for the pro features. Don't buy the 'Pro Pack', unless you think you're going to need credits for some reason. Buy the device on it's own for 59.99, and then add the pro plan separately for 24.99 (you'll find it under 'Digital Content' on their website). You'll then pay another 24.99 next year if you want to maintain the pro features.

Glow plug timer relay. It's in the fusebox under the bonnet. I think wiring could also cause this fault code, but replacing the relay would be a good first start. Do you get any kind of used warranty with the car? It would be an easy dealer fix if so. Edit: sorry, I confused you with another user - I don't know if you bought your car used or not.

Yes, OBDEleven has some 'one-click apps' that do coding for you, for a fee. Is there one for Trailer Assist now? Generally speaking I would avoid them in favour of doing the long coding manually, so that you know exactly what is being done, and can reverse it. You won't have any difficulty doing the long coding manually with OBDEleven, if you can identify what coding to do. I would be cautious about using the coding from the Q8. The Superb III is the same platform and era as the Kodiaq, so I would start with the coding from that thread and see how you get on first. From the look of the coding above, it seems that Trailer Assist on the Q8 is integrated with / dependent on this new Maneuvering Assist feature, so a lot of those changes will be superfluous or unavailable on the Kodiaq. E.g., the front camera (A5 module) is not required or used by Trailer Assist on the Kodiaq, as far as I'm aware. Similarly, I'd be surprised if 'rear axle steering' exists in the Kodiaq coding, but if it does, just leave it alone. It would be great if you could let us know when you have been able to successfully code this, as I'm hoping to do similarly at some point in the next year. I just need to find the time to install the additional four sensors needed for Park Assist first.

As above, this isn't a cheaper version, it's a clone. It may or may not work, and you may or may not be happy to buy a knock-off, but you should be at least aware of what it is.

Well, I guess that's good news - at least the problem has been identified and is fixable. Annoying that it requires you to spend more money though. Either device will be fine for this small amount of coding. For VCDS, you will want the HEX V2, 3 VIN model (unless you want to work on more cars than that). For OBDEleven, buy the next-gen device on it's own, then buy the pro subscription add on (it's not VIN limited). OBDeleven should work out at about half the cost of VCDS, albeit with an ongoing annual subscription. Both are good devices, with some differences between them. I find VCDS faster to use, but the flip side of that is that you have to use it with a laptop, whereas you just need a phone for OBDeleven. Get whichever one works out cheaper for you, especially if you don't have lots of other coding or retrofitting that you want to do. It might also be worthwhile seeing if there is anyone else within travelling distance who already owns one of these devices and would be willing to do the coding for beer money.

Hi, I don't know enough about this system to give you a solution, but I have some thoughts / questions. You say the car came with Trailer Prep. If so, it already had the factory loom, not an aftermarket loom. So what did the dealer install? Does anything happen if you press the Park Assist button while in reverse with a trailer attached? I had always assumed that this feature was only possible with an OEM tow bar (I don't know that for a fact though). The factory tow bar comes with its own control unit (this one: https://www.kufatec.com/en/comfort-retrofits/trailer-hitch/trailer-hitch-control-unit-for-vw-tiguan-skoda-kodiaq-karoq-42243-p), which I thought was probably a necessary component of the Trailer Assist feature. Or do you mean that this is what the dealer installed ? (again, I've no idea if its possible to use the Skoda control unit with an aftermarket tow-bar, but it doesn't seem that likely). I'd be interested to hear more about what exactly the dealer said about all of this. If it were me, I would use OBDEleven or VCDS to double-check that the coding is all correct. I would start by checking that the tow bar has been coded correctly first of all, and then look at the Trailer Assist coding. Is there a 69 (Trailer) module listed? If so, is it the Skoda one, or aftermarket? Here is a post about the trailer assist coding. You can ignore the discussion about needing to upgrade the reversing camera, as you have Area View. Please keep us updated if you find a solution.

It is definitely not plug and play I'm afraid. Lots of coding required, and online ODIS access is needed to adapt the car keys to the new cluster, and remove component protection. For a used cluster, it's not possible to decrease the mileage that's already on it, and increasing the mileage is a lengthy process, to be carried out on a bench. I'm not sure if Skoda have also recently adopted the requirement to receive authorisation to install a used cluster, similar to what what was already in place by Audi. [Edit: it looks like Skoda are not requiring this yet]. I recommend you seek advice from somewhere with more specialist knowledge about this process. There are various facebook group for ODIS users - that would be a good place to start. Good luck.