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Yeah, it sort of depends on whether you are looking to take on a bit of a 'project'! Worth noting that others have said it only took them 4 hours, so I may just be slow. If you have to buy tools it certainly cuts into the savings, but you may find that you can borrow one or two of them - a lot of people would have a hand-riveter, for example. Whatever you decide, the boards are great and I would fully recommend.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the rear two seats. It's definitely not the same as having the 5 seater boot, but it would be an easy way to reclaim extra space, if that is your main concern. With the added flexibility of being able to put the seats back in if you ever need them!

Hi @mk_83 I have fitted the OEM running boards. It's not a difficult job exactly, but it is an annoying one. It took me about 5 or 6 hours, with help, and my first thought once I'd done it was "I wish I'd paid someone to do that!". In retrospect of course I am happy to have saved the money. The boards come with a fitting instructions booklet, which @Salad Dodger has really helpfully posted here. See also the helpful tips from @kensym a little earlier in the same thread, all of which I agree with. The main points to note are: You will need to elevate the car in some way. I had access to a lift, but it could likely be done using a pair of axle stands (someone else who has done this may be able to comment?) You need a tool capable of fitting M8 rivet nuts. Something like this. The second photo below shows what each of the brackets should look like when assembled, ready to go on the car. Make sure that you put the adjuster bolt in the correct way round, with the hex socket on the outside of the bracket - shown (badly) in the first photo below. You don't need to remove the doors (the instructions tell you to do this). However you may need a combination of riveting tools in order to access the holes that are partially obscured by the door. If you have them, either an electric or pneumatic rivet gun would be helpful. If not, I would recommend having both a hand riveter and a lazy tongue riveter. The third photo below illustrates the difficulty in accessing some of the rivet holes. The fourth photo below shows one of the brackets fully in place on the car. If you currently have front mud-flaps fitted, you will need to take them off while fitting the running boards. You can put them back on afterwards, but you will need to cut them to fit. See photos and advice from @silver1011 here and here. I wouldn't advise buying the boards from Kopacek. You may find that they are not willing to ship something so large to the UK any longer, and even if they are you will likely have customs duties to pay on top. As far as I know they also do not include the rubber seals which are needed. You would be better off approaching your local dealer for a price. If they are not willing to help or are too expensive, then note that they are available at a good price online from UK sellers, including Caffyn's (currently £707 plus delivery). They are even cheaper in Ireland, if you are planning a visit over there at any point! (I paid €608 from an Irish dealer a year ago). Part numbers: Whole package: ZGBBOM042SK Or the individual parts: 565071691 - Left running board 565071691A - Right running board 565071830 - Seals for the running boards Good luck If you have any other tips to add once you have done this yourself, please come back and add to the info here.

Here is a photo of what it looks like with the cover installed.

Yes, this works with electrically operated and heated seats. Costs of the parts are shown in my link above. This includes the fabric cover.

Sorry, you're right, I was reading the workshop manual wrong because of a table that spans 2 pages - both Nanuq and Ratikon are available. Still not much choice though, considering they are so similar to each other!

@SinglePointSafety and @BoxerBoy, thank you both very much for those perspectives - I appreciate it. I've had a look at the wider range of Skoda 17" rims, and (from those that I've been able to find) none of them have the correct offset. So if I want to stick exactly to Skoda specs, the choice seems to be between using the Skoda Nanuq rims or going with an aftermarket set. I'll think some more about it. I've got a couple of months before I run out of rubber :-)

Really helpful, thank you! I hadn't even thought about this. I also have the 2.0 TSI engine.

Very helpful, thank you, and thanks for the links. I'll see if I can track down some of those other 17" Skoda rims to have a look. If I could get a set that I was happy to live with, I think my preference would be to go all the way to 17" for the best possible comfort.

Thanks Kenny. That's interesting - I would've expected at least some difference in how the ride feels. It's all very subjective I know, and highly dependent on the quality of road surface etc, but I'm definitely not satisfied with the comfort level on my 19" wheels, using recommended pressure.

At the moment I have 19" Triglav wheels with the stock Hankook tyres. It's almost time to change the fronts, and the rears aren't too far behind, so I'd like to swap everything out for a set of all-seasons tyres. While doing that, I'm considering a change to either 17" or 18" wheels, for the sole purpose of increasing ride comfort (the car is a keeper, so I'm ok with the investment). I understand that there is likely to be some impact on handling, but I'm finding it very hard to quantify what that would actually feel like. Some people have complained about the sponginess of driving on 17" wheels, while others have praised the increase in comfort. And I also can't figure out if 18" wheels would be a sweet spot of comfort and precision, or whether there wouldn't be enough of a difference between them and the 19's to justify the cost. I would love to hear from those of you who have made similar changes, or who otherwise have experience of the different wheel sizes. On a related note, although aesthetics are definitely not the main consideration here, I really don't like the Nanuk wheels, which appear to be the only 17" rims available for the Kodiak (I'd be quite happy with the 18" Trinity rims). So if I choose to go with the 17" option I would likely look at aftermarket rims. As long as I stick to the Skoda prescribed wheel sizes, are there any other issues to be aware of in doing that? (other than checking with my insurers). Or is anyone aware of any other Skoda 17" wheels that would work with the Kodiaq? Thanks!

Here, save yourself 60 quid! https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00URDQ27A/

£63.91 for a pollen filter! Take it down to Transcity Skoda in Walthamstow, they definitely do fixed-price servicing on the Kodiaq. Unbelievable what some dealers try on. Don't forget you'll need a DSG service too - that's another £215. And if you've bought this car second-hand, double-check that it's had a Haldex / 4x4 service done at 3 years / 30k.

These two posts provide the best description of the process that I've seen yet - though you need to get your browser to translate them first 😁 https://www.drive2.ru/l/558099733827027645/ https://www.drive2.ru/l/560219592245380256/ There's no danger of needing radar recalibration unless you remove the whole bumper - and even then I don't think it would definitely be needed, if you are careful (though I haven't tried yet).

I would personally say 'yes' to all of these questions. There's nothing wrong with the 1.5l engine, and it would make the most sense for the usage you've described. The kangarooing was resolved through a recall as far as I know? It also only affected cars with manual transmission. I'm not sure it ever affected cars as late as 2020, but someone else may confirm. I think the Edition is a great choice, but then I'm biased. Many others would say that the SEL offers better value for money, but that's extremely subjective depending on the features you're looking for, even more so when you're buying a used car. If this one has everything you're looking for, go for it. There's no reason to be concerned about the Edition being discontinued. There is nothing that is specific to the Edition alone, so no issue about parts being available etc.

There's a helpful discussion of this issue in another thread. It looks like some of the personalisation features are no longer available, and the rest are now managed through the 'Users' function, rather than through a specific 'personalisation' menu.

You can add wireless Car Play or wireless Android Auto using third party adapters. For Android there is only one available, and there is a wait of several months. I received mine a few weeks ago and it is working well. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Apart from the wireless car play / android auto, I don't think the MIB3 units have any major advantage, and they have several possible disadvantages (depending on point of view), including no SIM slot, SD slots or DVD/CD. There also seem to be several bugs and software issues at the moment, though hopefully those will be addressed over time.

MY21 has a new steering-wheel, new infotainment software (MIB3) with wireless Android Auto / Car Play, and 2 USB-C sockets instead of USB-A. You can no longer insert your own SIM card, you need to pay Skoda for a data plan using their integrated SIM.

The workshop manuals are available on here. You want pages 211 to 213 of the 'General body repairs, exterior' manual. And a good hairdryer, by the look of it!

The parking sensors are clipped into brackets, but the brackets themselves are glued on. You would probably need to source new ones, as well as cut the (pre-marked) holes for the sensors. That is unless there are separate part numbers for the bumper with and without provision made for the sensors (i.e., with holes and brackets already in place), but I have no idea if that's the case.

Sorry to dredge up this topic, but I just wanted to say that I got my AAwireless unit this week, and all is working well (with an MIB2 Columbus). There wasn't any customs duties or VAT to pay - the value was declared as £21. I got a shipping notification and It arrived 2 days later via Royal Mail tracked 48, even though the tracking never updated...

I have VC with MIB2 Columbus at the moment. It's exactly as @langers2k has said: you won't be able to have map display on the VC (personally I don't care about this), and you won't have the VC settings page on the infotainment, which allows you to customise what information is displayed on the two side displays of the VC (the space within each of the two dials). You can still choose between 3 or 4 different pre-set configurations of these views, you just can't choose exactly what you want on there. I'm annoyed by this, but not enough to upgrade to MIB2.5. You can still switch between the five main VC views (sport, minimal, etc..), and can choose whatever you want to display in the centre portion of the display - because you use the steering-wheel buttons to change these options, not the infotainment. If you prefer, you can have your unit reworked to MIB2.5 for around €200 (Pawel will tell you current prices..), and buy a used screen for roughly another €200 (EDIT: sorry, this is based on the cost of the Kodiaq MIB2.5 screen, I'm not sure how easy to find or how expensive the Superb screen is). There may also be some risk of bricking your unit with this route, Pawel can advise you further. Good luck!

Definitely not wireless Android auto or Carplay - you need MIB3 for this. I have a Kodiaq, so it may not be the same, but for me the difference between MIB2 and MIB 2.5 columbus would be: - Compatibility with virtual cockpit. MIB2 cannot send maps to VC, and cannot change some of the view settings. -Different layout on the screen, carousel in MIB2, grid in MIB2.5 -Compatibility with 'Media Command' app. - If you replace the MIB2 unit with an MIB2.5 unit (not just flash it), you can also have a SIM slot in the glovebox. But as far as I know you would also need to install the antennas under the rear bumper if you want to use this, e.g for Skoda Connect Not sure if there is anything else? @pab567is definitely the man to ask.

I think the 3V0920790 parts are for the Superb. In my MY17 car I have 56G920790 (no letters on the end). Also known as 565920790 (china vs Europe part numbers) It should be the same for your MY18 or MY19 car, but I don't know that for sure. The OEM package comes with an optical fiber cable, but you will also need an optical splitter if you have the canton sound system. You also need access to ODIS to set the mileage and adapt the keys to the new immobiliser.

In a word, no. Because of covid, I only have experience of using it on my commute. On this 13 mile trip, mostly on a dual carriageway, it performs terribly. It consistently adjusts the speed downwards based on speed-signs on adjacent roads and sliproads, sometimes dangerously so. On one flyover, it reduces speed because it thinks I am approaching the junction which is on the road below me. This is obviously a very limited experience of using p-ACC on one route, but based on that experience I couldn't recommend it. I have also seen others complain that the UK mapping data is not accurate or up to date enough to be able to use this feature well here. Your mileage may vary. I'd be really interested to hear other people's experience of using it though