Teir

I agree with all of the above, but would just add that any garage should be able to reset the service interval, so that shouldn't be a reason not to go with an independent. Personally I am happy to pay a slight premium to maintain the full Skoda service history at the moment, though my view on that will probably change as the car gets older.

I have a MY17 car. I find the system helpful in giving minor adjustments to my steering, e.g., if I haven't turned the wheel quite enough to stay within the lane on a curve. That fulfills my expectations of the feature. If I do relax my grip and let the car steer on it's own (for the 12 seconds that it will allow me to do that), then yes, I find that it can sometimes feel slightly late in making an adjustment. However, this is what I would expect from a feature that is meant to assist rather than self-drive - if it intervenes earlier it risks overruling the driver's intentions, and might feel intrusive rather than helpful. It is able to do a reasonable job at keeping towards the centre of the lane. It could definitely be a bit more refined, but I wouldn't say that it bounces. It managed fine when I tried it in temps of 2-3 degrees c. this morning. Are you sure that the feature was improved in later model years? I haven't seen anything that particularly mentioned this. I would've thought the same hardware was used at least until the facelift, which I believe has a different camera for the matrix headlights. Auto-parking mode isn't relevant to this by the way. If you believe there is a problem with how your system is working, it might be worth asking the dealer whether there is a software update available. If they don't help, and if you're out of warranty, you could contact an independent garage or someone who specialise in retrofitting to see if they could do it for you. My camera is running software version 3Q0 980 654 H , in case that is useful for you.

It's a pain in the ass, but yes, you'll manage it. See here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/487077-oem-running-boards/?do=findComment&comment=5555044

£707 for the parts here. Fit them yourself, or I'm sure you can find someone else to do it for less than 6 hundred quid! https://seat-skoda.caffynsparts.co.uk/parts/skoda-parts/skoda-kodiaq/skoda-kodiaq-side-running-boards/ Are you in Ireland by any chance? I bought mine from a dealer in Kerry for about 600 euro a couple of years ago (parts only).

I see that@Yogi-Bearhas ably answered your questions. I just wanted to add that, while the facelift only happened this year (Model Year 22), the change of steering wheel and the addition of the Skoda lettering on the rear were both introduced last year (MY21).

The OEM boards are understated and classy looking, imho. The aftermarket boards I've seen are much more likely to give you that 'Mercedes look'. Other than for roof-access, the other main advantage running boards provide (in my experience at least) has been allowing kids to get in and out much easier. They definitely don't help with adult access to the car - in fact they can get in the way a bit. Depending on your height I suppose.

DSG, with start/stop activated. If the engine has switched off, then the tap on the accelerator serves the dual purpose of restarting it and disengaging the parking brake.

The distance warning option displays a small symbol in the bottom of the dash display when you're following a car too closely for the speed that you're doing. It looks like two cars with an exclamation mark between them.

I asked about this in the VCDS Facebook group and was told it wasn't possible. Since then I've started applying the handbrake in situations where the brakelight is going to be dazzling. When it's time to set off I just give the accelerator a quick tap to disengage the handbrake.

Not necessarily helpful to the OP, but just to add to this thread - here is a page listing some potential Haldex error codes: https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/generation-5-haldex-fault-finding-repair-guide/

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I would strongly recommend against the Kufatec kit - it is hugely overpriced and requires you to swap the radar, which then necessitates an expensive radar recalibration. And you still need access to a VAS dongle in order to complete the retrofit. I am also not sure if their kits work on new models with SFD protection (and if they do, whether there is an extra cost for this).

Fixing a fault is an entirely different matter to adding something to a car that was never there to begin with. When there's a fault, everything the dealer does is guided by the software, using 'Guided fault finding'. They just have to follow the process laid out by the software. I'm not saying it's impossible for a dealer to do this (though it might well be), but I do think it is highly unlikely that they will do it. Please report back though. This kind of issue comes up now and again and we rarely get to hear what the final outcome is.

This is a non-trivial retrofit, and the dealer is not going to do it. I could be wrong, but I think they don't even have the technical capability to do what's required. Even if they do, it requires alterations to 5 or 6 different modules and they are not going to want to touch it with a bargepole. ACC can be retrofitted by an independent retrofitter. However be aware that it would then be an easy excuse for the dealer to refuse any subsequent warranty claims, as ACC involves so many of the car's modules. Push hard for compensation and see how you get on.

Agreed!

@ZacDaMan72 Sounds like he knows he doesn't have ACC. I think he wants to know whether he paid for an option which he did not receive.

If your car didn't come with wireless Android Auto compatibility, it is not possible to just enable it in the head unit. That's not what this thread is about. You can however buy a separate 3rd party dongle to plug into the USB slot, which can allow you to use wireless android auto. This one, for example: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/

MY21 I think. But you can get a set of handles and cables for 60 quid on Ali express if you want to retrofit 😁

Your car should have this - I believe it was from MY20 onwards. I think it may take 15 minutes for the key to go to sleep - it's worth testing this though, as you say.

Sorry, this unit is MIB2 and therefore cannot send maps to the VC. If you send it to Pab he can upgrade it to MIB2.5 for you, then you can have maps. But you will also need a new screen.

I don't think you can do this on the new Infotainment system - not yet at least!

Hi Peter, I've looked into this also, but haven't proceeded because of the considerable costs involved. I don't know how much of this would be applicable to the Superb II, but for my Kodiaq I would need to buy: the new wheel a new airbag, because the heated wheel for my era of car (pre MY21) uses a slightly different shaped airbag a new slip-ring, because the current one isn't compatible with a heated wheel. This part also seems quite hard to come by. In addition, you will need to supply power to the wheel, and adapt the slip-ring wiring harness to a different connector and different pin layout. This is accomplished most easily with the use of an adaptor, which can be bought from Kufatec. This adaptor includes a cable that you have to run to your fusebox for power, and connect to the ground-point near the driver's doorsill. Make sure you get the RHD version if your car is RHD, as otherwise the cable won't be long enough to reach the fusebox. The coding is the easy bit of this operation! I'm not sure how it would work with your aftermarket navigator /info system, as the settings for turning the heat on/off and up/down are only accessible through the infotainment system. It will depend on how much integration your new system provides, I guess. Why do you need an aftermarket system for a reversing camera? For the costs involved you could likely just buy the OEM camera parts and install. Or was there not one available for the Superb II?

Ah, my local dealer. I've never used them though... Did they give a price for supply only?

To be fair I can't remember exactly what the material was, but it was definitely thin and easy to poke through (and clearly designed to be poked through!)

I had the same issue. But they're not blanked off, they're just sort of painted over. The rubber bung is still in there, and can be poked out. I'll attach before and after photos below (the rivet nut has been put in place in the second photo). It looks a bit rough in the photo - I tidied it up afterwards. It's just a thin layer of material. Edit: Just to clarify, I did not need to drill anything - the pre-drilled hole was in place underneath the painted-over bung, ready to receive the rivet nut, just like the other locations. This is the main bit I would be worried about. If you can manage this without jacking the car up, then you're probably fine. Try and find yourself a comfortable surface to work on though, you'll be under there for a while!