wagonist

digging up this old thread because I have a question (I had started my own thread a while back https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512172-reverse-camera-washer, but just discovered this one). I have a Mk3 with an existing camera. I'm going to fit the outer housing and washer jet from a Mk3.5. I see I need to use that factory washer line (5E9 955 663 A) like you seem to use, but I'm confused about it's connections. Is it a line just on the tailgate and where does the T piece in the middle go to? Thanks

Wow, that looks like a lot of effort, although I'm looking to do the same. One thing I'm stuck on though is how to remove the sunvisors near the windscreen. Any tips (I realise this is almost 2 years ago...)?

AFAIK, all the factory ones have a sleeve. The sleeve is physically visable as it sits outside the impeller. If you can handle a longer time for the internal heater to warm up, then get a sleeveless one. My last factory sleeve one had the sleeve fail at 60k kms... At 180k kms, my car is now on it's 3rd pump, when it should only be halfway through 2nd...

I hope you got this fixed. My 15 model did this, too. Found out the movable sleeve to aid with warm up over the pump was almost seized. New aftermarket pump with sleeve delete and no problems since. Takes much longer to get heat up now, but at least reliable

Another old addition for those playing late. There is a high beam wire for on the pre FL car with Bi-xeon headlights. It's a yellow wire with a white stripe. On the LHS plug, it's 2nd from the top and on the side closer to the edge of the car.

Gotcha. makes sense.

So if the AH is so small difference, then does it really matter then if the serial number is correct? Sorry, it kind of seems contradictory. I saw something on a vid about some people putting the installation date in there instead of serial number, so that might be kind of useful to work out how long it lasts.

Alright, so found out you can't use a normal 12V charger to top up an AGM battery. And as it's at 60%, and my uncle works for a battery supply company, I've decided to get a new one. Considering the original is almost 8 years old and I've only disabled stop/start since I bought it 3 years ago, I suppose it isn't bad. Anyway, the replacement I've lined up is another AGM similar to what I've got, but the AH & CCA are different (now higher) 68AH to 70AH 680CCA to 760CCA. Are these different enough to need to get an adaptation done? Thanks

My AGM battery is now on 12.2V. Hasn't been run for last 24 hours. But if you charge the battery in the car with the car off, is it still going to be checking?

Thanks. Aware of this and one of the reasons I'd rather avoid changing the battery for now.

My battery (TDi) is starting to get sluggish starting the car. I'm guessing it's starting to go, but having a battery charger at home I'd like to try giving that a try before buying a new one. So, if I pull the battery out and charge it, what kind of issues will I have when reconnecting it? Minor things like clock reset I'm not worried about, more if any major systems would need some kind of external influence to reset them? If this is difficult, could the battery be recharged while still in the car without effecting the modules in the car? Thanks

Maybe, but I'd like to rule out other things before I fork out a couple of hundred $ on one, including trying to recharge it.

I didn't ask about heating the block. I understand the way glowplugs are supposed to work. kind of like a diesel version of a sparkplug to help the ignition of the fuel when the engine isn't spinning at full capacity. The last diesel I owned was a 97 Toyota wagon which still had mechanical injection. "cold" climate here is it gets down to maybe 5 degrees at night, so no way extreme enough for a block heater. I'd like to stick the battery on a charger and see if that helps rejuvenate it prior to replacing. Do you know if there are any issues with me simply removing the battery from the car to do that and then reinstalling it? I'm not used to new cars... My previous newest car is a 99 Corolla as I've had company cars for like the last 15 years.

On my 15 TDi Scout premium with push button start, is there a way to get the glow plugs to warm up the engine prior to cranking? Older diesels I've driven, you turn the key to "on" and then when the glow plug light goes off, then crank. Getting into winter here now (well what passes for winter in Australia), my car is parked outside, and was recently left to sit for a month while I went to the other hemisphere. The battery was starting to be sluggish before then, but also I don't go to the office everyday, so the car gets driven a little less. Also, is there a way to see the battery voltage?

A photo of how it looks now would be sufficient. Just curious how it looks, and how that nozzle is held in position. Looking at a pic of the nozzle part in isolation is a bit deceptive for scale.

I probably should've been asking this kind of stuff when I was closer to the car, not away visiting family... Do you have a pic of your setup as installed?

It's in the rear brake light.

So you've done some kind of mod to do this ? any pics? And how does it work? TBH, I'd be happy if it squirted every time I washed the rear window, so just teeing into the water line and routing an extension. But open to ideas. I wonder if it'd be less of a problem if I had mudflaps, but Scouts are the only model that they're not available for. Skoda could've just moulded them into the plastic add ons, but that'd be "simply clever"

Anyone know of a retrofit washer for the reverse camera on a wagon/estate? My 15 Scout gets the camera super dirty and then it's basically useless. I can see why it got added to the MkIV...

Ahh, I see. There are a pair of electrical switches inside the latch itself. At least one turns on the lights in the cargo area once the latch is released. I'll have to look at the setup, but I wonder if the other one is to tell the electrical striker to pull in on the powered models. Personally, I'd be calling the button you mentioned a button, as its something you press. But it gets all muddled because the term buttons and switches on the dashboard get used interchangably...

Hope you were pulling the headlight out anyway, because you can replace the DRL LED controller underneath (pretty sure the headlight ballast is on the radiator side of the light) without doing so... Hate how replacement aftermarket controllers on a certain popular auction site are all labelled headlight ballast when they're not...

Isn't the boot switch in the latch? I had to replace the latch on my 15 Scout as the switch had intermitent failures meaning the electric tailgate wouldn't operate correctly. Got one from a hatch as powered/non powered wagon/hatch are all the same on the mk 3 I pulled my original ones apart for giggles and I needed to drill out the rivet that the catch pivots on to get the thing apart enough to see the switches... Be interested to see if there's a different version or method.

I had to finish off a hole that someone else had started (was wondering why my light was fogging up...) and just used an old steak knife. A small file could be used to clean up the rough edges later, but the grommet fully hides the hole anyway. The hardest part would to start the hole. I did buy the pair of Grommets from Skoda so at some point, maybe I'll do the other side.

these links don't work any more.

I mean I wouldn't mind converting my push button start to a key start