mfizz

Had a moment there... of course it would be flipped...

Finally managed to get it installed, just need to tuck the wires into the trim... Thanks Is the image meant to be flipped? As if looking in the mirror..

No that is tremendous help. Usually I'll spend a lot of time with self discovery, trial and error but if there is someone out there that has already done it, saves me time. Appreciate the offer but that's a 500 mile round trip

Thank you... So may sound silly but I'm just trying to see how I would tackle this.. I tried to remove the stereo but couldn't because the harness isn't long enough... If that's the case how did you manage to remove the glovebox if the stereo remained intact..

So in my attempts to install a rear video camera I had to remove the softclose motor that covers the button. I haven't managed to piece it back all together and therefore the trim is still undone but not blocking anything. However when I assembled it back together again, I have the feeling when I tested it, it was working fine... Fast forward maybe 30/40 open closes later some of which were interrupted half way, some were blocked by an obstacle, some were stopped by the key being too close, and some accompanied with beeps I dont normally recognise, I think it isn't operating as it should.. it just closes to not a massive thud but not the elegant way I feel like it use to be... The benefit of having all the trim off at the moment is I can see the internals and I can see that the motor tries to turn and then stops, from what I can only assume is because it's already closed. My question is, just like there is a height setting, is there a close position setting as well? It suddenly started raining and I had my lamp in there, so rather than dismantle everything in torrential rain I closed the boot to as close to as it would close (after several tries) which may have inadvertently set a "new" close position. Alternatively does anyone know where I can proceed from here? There isn't much information around on the web.

Thanks...I'm.having some trouble getting access to the harness.. did you remove the entire glovebox or just pulled down to reveal the fuses. On a side note when you removed the soft close motor, is it working as intended?... Maybe I'm being paranoid after having reinstalled it, I feel like it's not working... I thought it would get close to the end and then slowly close but I get more of thud I can see the motor from the inside begin to turn... But it doesn't get very far, probably because it's already closed... (All the trim is still off... Could it be the end position is messed up? I opened and closed it several times one or two times it made a continuous beep which I just ignored...

@Ams12 did you route the cable through the roof or the floor?

So it is that time of ownership that I have to replace the timing belt. Now I am stuck on if I should use a switchable or non-switchable one. Skoda-parts say use this: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04l121011n-coolant-pump-tdi-cr-skoda-25875.html I think this is the non-switchable one. Can anyone advise? Superb 3 (Hatch) 2016 2.0 Tdi 110kw / 150ps (non 4x4) L&K On a side note what would be the engine code for this. I always (wrongly perhaps) thought it was CRLB but I might confusing it with the passat. But looking at the engine list looks more like DFEA, DFEB, DFGA. How can i determine which one it is?

It goes orange on the maxidot (one with the road and car and lanes) if you go to the driver assist menu. Otherwise it will remain green regardless of it actively adjusting or not. It will go yellow orange with the smaller icon that looks like a road if it hasn't picked up the lanes

I too recently purchased a Superb. I was convinced I needed an estate. But in the end I went with a hatchback, because boot footprint of the estate vs hatchback is the same. The height is where they differ. I went for the diesel DSG because I do the motorway miles. In addition I went for L&K mainly because it comes with lane assist preinstalled. Not that SE-L doesn't, they are just harder to find. Since you are going for used and you want the driver assistance bits like park assist, blind spot etc then you can retrofit everything, but you might as well save the time and effort and get it within. The traffic jam assist combined with adaptive cruise, make hell of a difference on long journeys.

Pretty sure this is a copy paste from octy thread. For starters Octavia doesn't have an inner tail light assembly. Secondly if it was a simple coding job there wouldn't have been 4 different variants available for the same side of the vehicle. That's why I was watching this thread intently. You could in theory, use an EU lamp in the UK and turn off the left sided fog but not the other way round. If you do end up purchasing another left sided tail, do let me know what you doing with your old one I might be interested

Out of curiosity what do people use the connect app for? I can't remember anything useful for my MY when I used it the one time.

So this is the think in my 2016 assist from when I've had the acc on, it has never applied the breaks. I've set the alarm to be early on getting assist and every now and then it will show the red car with WiFi signals all round it on the maxi for with an audible alert, but never applied the breaks. I guess I'm too chicken to try out out for real. I've gotten pretty close to not breaking to the car in front but it still never applied it.

I just want to get this clear once and for all. If I get too close (e.g. creeping traffic) will the car automatically slam the breaks if I'm on a collision course? Front assist and all that

I missed that, do you have keyless start?

If only it was that simple. I am afraid you will need: Door handles new door wiring kessy module interior antenna exterior antenna additional harness coding Have a look at this post here for an idea, its being done on a VW but can assume its similar. https://foorum.vwklubi.eu/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=146583&p=924715#p924715 (Translate it)

I just did this the other day. Cannot comment on the USB, I used a mSD with SD adaptor with 64gb card formatted exfat. The files should be stored as: X:\metainfo2.txt X:\Mib1 X:\Mib2 Worked for me first time. I put it on install and turned off the car and locked it, it was still installing 12 hours later, but at least I didn't need to have the engine running.

@SashaGrace thanks. Assuming that then it will need to be coded in. @langers2k you mentioned being able to get it for £75 for oem? Can you please point in the right direction, struggling to find anything round that price

Does to disappear at high speeds? Is it low pitched to begin with and then gets higher and higher as you accelerate?

Just checked and it looks like the image attached, so I guess I,lol have to get the A type. Just the Chinese descriptions are a little misleading, it says superb 17-19. Not trying to sound jealous but will I have everything @langers2khas, i.e. what's in the owners manual for - traverse parking - parallel parking - driving up to a trailer / distance monitoring - monitor the area behind the vehicle (wide view

@weyland am I correct in assuming that no coding was required? It was simply plug and play? Even though your car never came with the camera?

Thanks both. I went on the weyland one and the camera is for 2017+ cars mine is a 16. @SashaGrace have you installed Chinese camera on 15-17 superbs?

Thanks for that. Aren't those just static lines? What about where the guide lines change with the steering wheel?

As the title says, I know that on a superb 3 you can purchase a £15 camera from Aliexpress without any special hardware and it works out of the box after wiring. Only downside is, that it doesn't have the guides. Does anyone know of a similar, but with trajectory / dynamic guide lines? The OEM camera, high line, is relatively expensive compared to this, so just exploring options

You can find it here for the Non-FL model. Just needs someone to take the plunge on FL model. Quite sure it can be done, all the hardware is there.